OM617 Timing after Rebuild - Page 5 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

mannys9130 · #61 12-04-2015, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by engatwork

I'm curious about using coffee filters to clean? I'm assuming because it won't leave particles behind. Any recommendation on which brand? Can you get coffee filter paper in large sheets?

Correct, they are totally lint free. Jaffromobile on YouTube showed me this tip and I really like it. You can just pick up a big pack of filters at the store and use them once or twice each depending how you fold them up. I don't think brand matters.

I've never looked for coffee filter paper in large sheets, but your best bet on that would be to get sheets of laboratory grade filter paper. It's very similar, and it must be clean to avoid contaminating the filtered product.

MrUkrainian · #62 12-04-2015, 08:14 PM

A little confusion about the harmonic balancer.. I removed the pulley and this is what i found. The two pins look like this. Also, to remove the balancer, should I just use a puller, or do i have to remove the pins first?

12336420_1065050023546596_1322978368_n by David S, on Flickr

12355185_1065049996879932_820806241_n by David S, on Flickr

Carpenterman · #63 12-04-2015, 11:32 PM

Yea, a puller does the job. Pins will probably stay with the balancer as it comes off.

It looks like someone was in there before and used pins that were too long. One has been peened over and the other looks a little proud.

When I ordered new pins they were too long. They are meant to sit flush, so I ground them to the correct length.

BillGrissom · #64 12-05-2015, 11:04 PM

I pulled the balancer on both my 300D's. On the 1982 engine (in my 1985), the 2 pins stayed on the balancer. Indeed, I thought they were integral with it. It went back on w/ no issue (after changing the crank seal). I wasn't so lucky later w/ my 1984 and then figured out "how it works" (should have read the FSM). I found you aren't supposed to re-use the pins, and they are fairly cheap on PP. But some have reported new ones are need trimming (your old ones?). Also, they are not 180 deg apart, which sets the damper clocking to the crank. Punch mark the 2 before removal. I did, but then found someone had placed earlier punches and confused with mine. I was working w/ engine in car, so had to use a mirror to view, which made it much harder. Anyway, after several attempts I finally got the damper back on the 1984. Be careful or you could destroy your crankshaft.

The damper didn't pull off easy on either car, but wasn't too hard w/ a rugged "pulley puller" (Harbor Freight). There is a wiki on installing the new crank seal. You must fold the lip up over the crank ring. I must have lucked out on the 1982 engine, since I don't recall doing anything special. On my 1984 engine I tore the lip of the seal and had to try again.

In earlier post on your rear crank seal, check if you need sealant between the metal-metal gap of the bearing block and engine. In some engines, you need a thin anaerobic like Loctite. I haven't done my M-B engines.

MrUkrainian · #65 12-09-2015, 11:34 PM

Here's an update on my progress. I've installed all new piston rings and installed the pistons/rods. I torqued down main caps and rod caps. One piston had a scratch on the side, but in the cylinder liner, there was no noticeable scratch. I installed the oil pump. Tomorrow, I will install the upper and lower oil pans and might get the new front main seal in place. From what I've seen, you should never reuse the pins in the harmonic balancer? Is it a risk of them falling out?

New piston rings

12336219_1067010230017242_199216463_n by David S, on Flickr

Scratch on piston #5

12335955_1067010316683900_285209423_n by David S, on Flickr

All installed

11653371_1067010386683893_2108828578_n by David S, on Flickr

Oil pump in place

12358207_1067479366636995_1171025191_n by David S, on Flickr

12346895_1067479423303656_1852781643_n by David S, on Flickr

mannys9130 · #66 12-09-2015, 11:43 PM

The pins that go into the crank are very important. If they shear or fall out, the balancer will rotate around the crank and ruin the end of the crankshaft. So it's required that you replace them and follow the FSM procedure to be sure the balancer is in place solidly. Use Loctite blue.

Stretch · #67 12-10-2015, 04:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mannys9130

The pins that go into the crank are very important. If they shear or fall out, the balancer will rotate around the crank and ruin the end of the crankshaft. So it's required that you replace them and follow the FSM procedure to be sure the balancer is in place solidly...

X2 There's loads of evidence here on this forum and others showing what can go wrong

See for example

Research - Why so many OM61X balancer failures?

Where do you get European harmonic balancer dowel pins and center bolt for 1983 300D

(I think diesel911 and whunter have similar threads but I can't find them at the moment - google helpt niet)

Read chapter 03-340 in the FSM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mannys9130

... Use Loctite blue.

Mate I don't think loctite blue would work in this case as you're meant to lubricate the big bolt before torquing the mega torque.

mannys9130 · #68 12-10-2015, 06:11 AM

If the big bolt needs to have grease, I'd suppose the pins and anything else would do well to have a tad of Loctite. Ever since I found out about thread locker when I was young, it always made me feel safer using it on parts that were critical. My boss used to get upset at me because I'd use blue on caliper bracket bolts. He'd say "Never put Loctite on brake bolts! They're hard enough to get off anyway!" I'd bring up the fact that MB called for new bolts every time the hardware was removed, and that the new bolts came with thread locker already on them. He'd tell me Mercedes was wrong.

What's do you think about loctiting the pins?

Stretch · #69 12-10-2015, 07:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mannys9130

If the big bolt needs to have grease, I'd suppose the pins and anything else would do well to have a tad of Loctite. Ever since I found out about thread locker when I was young, it always made me feel safer using it on parts that were critical. My boss used to get upset at me because I'd use blue on caliper bracket bolts. He'd say "Never put Loctite on brake bolts! They're hard enough to get off anyway!" I'd bring up the fact that MB called for new bolts every time the hardware was removed, and that the new bolts came with thread locker already on them. He'd tell me Mercedes was wrong.

What's do you think about loctiting the pins?

I would suspect that loctite on the dowels would come off during fitting. You often get shavings of metal coming off whilst they go in (which is why these are a fit only once item)

If you wanted glue in there then you'd probably need a high pressure solution but I reckon it is probably best to just follow the FSM instructions and make sure you measure the applied torque reliably with the crank in a reliable fixed position.

(Stopping the crank from moving is the hardest thing to achieve in this process - I did the following => Has anyone ever made a good DIY tool to lock an OM617 flywheel? which is possible if the engine is out of the car without a transmission fitted)

MrUkrainian · #70 12-10-2015, 11:51 PM

Today, i installed lower and upper oil pans. It is actually starting to look like an engine again! I put the front crank cover on and put in the new front main seal. I oiled it up with some assembly lube and lightly tapped around in a circle with a rubber mallet. It went in pretty smoothly and looks to have seated nicely.

12351101_1067941089924156_978930877_n by David S, on Flickr

12248659_1067941149924150_18349912_n by David S, on Flickr

12348688_1067941286590803_239374750_n by David S, on Flickr

12358200_1067941046590827_1181832181_n by David S, on Flickr

ollo · #71 12-11-2015, 12:12 AM

Good job! Looks like you have a nice, clean place to work. This is a very satisfying engine to work on, and the contrast to the ugly, black beast you removed adds to the sense of accomplishment.

BillGrissom · #72 12-11-2015, 12:54 AM

I assume when you lubed the front seal, you mean just the inner lip. If you lubed the outside it may pop out. Insure the lip is over that inner crank sleeve. If not, when you install the balancer it will pinch it (how would I know?). I coated that sleeve inside surface w/ gasket sealant. Seems oil could come thru the metal-metal gap otherwise. Not knowing better, I did re-use the crank pins on my 1985 since they were stuck to the balancer. No problems after 2 years or so. Looks like you didn't change that $7 oil pump chain tensioning rail while it was easy. Many have found them cracked. In my 1984 it had broken off the pivot.