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  #1  
Old 11-27-2015, 03:44 AM
dac dac is offline
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K1 and K2 springs

Hey everybody,
I'm going to drain my transmission fluid on my 1984 300TD and replace the filter and gasket, and was curious about what else I could do while the pan is off. I bought this car recently, and am trying to be preventative instead of just fixing problems as they come.
My transmission is actually relatively smooth, but I keep hearing about the K1 and K2 springs. They're easy to get to, so should I just go ahead and replace them? I've seen mentioned that you can use the K1 spring (part number 126 270 44 77) for both the K1 and K2. Is this true?
Anything else I can look at while I'm down there?

Thanks for the help,
Daniel
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  #2  
Old 11-27-2015, 04:09 AM
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I'm not sure about using the K1 kit for both. I thought the two bores had different guts inside.

I'd check the vacuum modulator (if you have one) and be sure the cap is in good condition and replace the rubber vacuum connector between modulator and hardline.

You can install the K1 (maybe K2 if we figure that out, IDK) preventatively but I still have my K1 kit on the shelf that I bought for my long since sold 190E. I just never had flaring and didn't bother with it. With sensitive things like an automatic transmission (probably with high miles), I think it's best to leave internal components alone unless there is an issue that requires a repair. The K1 kit is meant to resolve flaring. On my own cars, I waited to install it until there was flaring. That never happened.
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  #3  
Old 11-27-2015, 08:13 AM
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My feeling, especially with transmissions, is if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Although these springs are easy to get to, you may stir up whatever goop is in your valve body and make yourself some trouble. As long as you aren't getting flared shifts, the springs are fine.

The K1 spring should fit in the K2, I don't think you'll see much difference in shift quality.
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Old 11-28-2015, 12:42 AM
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The K1 kit replaces the 3 springs in the K1 bore but AFAIK only the two long springs in the opposing K2 bore. The K2 side has a short spring twice as long as the K1 short spring but the replacement K1 short spring is stiffer than the original K2 short spring. I don't know what the wisdom is regarding the difference. K1 and K2 have different plastic pistons so keep track of them.

Consider a pan magnet (000988015264) if your tranny doesn't have one. My '83 SD didn't. You can replace the selector rod seal while the pan is off.

Sixto
83 300SD
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  #5  
Old 11-28-2015, 04:26 PM
dac dac is offline
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Good tips, I think I'll just leave the springs be. And I'll pick up some of those magnets for the transmission. I'd never heard of them, and don't know if I have some in there already, but it's worth the 10 bucks to make sure.

Daniel
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  #6  
Old 11-28-2015, 04:41 PM
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With magnets, my suggestion is to simply apply a strong neodymium magnet to the outside of the pan (the pan is steel, the magnet will stay put). Stuff will cling to the pan, and there's zero chance of the magnet coming loose and getting into the works.
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  #7  
Old 11-28-2015, 07:20 PM
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2x on mxfranks suggestion ! Those magnets are reeeeally strong ... as more than hard to remove from a steel plate once applied.
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  #8  
Old 11-28-2015, 07:49 PM
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Got any old hard drives?
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'84 190D 2.2 5MT (Red/Palomino) Current car. Love it!
'85 190D 2.2 Auto *Cali* (Blue/Blue) *sold*
http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/302601.png
http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/sideview.png
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