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  #76  
Old 02-06-2016, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mannys9130 View Post
The 601 produces 96 lb/ft and 72 hp. The 616 is going to be less than that and the 123 is heavier than a 201.

My 190D is more forgiving than a gas engine in regards to taking off, but you definitely need to utilize the clutch. It isn't an I/O thing.
The 601 is only 72hp? Hmm I know the 616 is more displacement, about the same hp, and only a little heavier. ..

I'm inclined to buy this story. I've just never ever had trouble lugging a diesel up a hill start. .. they all handle it so well.

The car is originally geared for 55mph roads... regearing for higher speeds is wise, but the sacrifice might not be as bad as we think.

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  #77  
Old 02-07-2016, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Mölyapina View Post
Do you think that that's because the engine runs in a better rev range longer than with the stock 3:69?
I need to check mine when I get back to work Monday, but I was seem to remember mine being a 3.28 ratio.
The biggest difference I see in drivability is the shift points are moved up in the mph range to much more useful ranges. (if that makes sense)
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  #78  
Old 02-07-2016, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by mannys9130 View Post
No, 150k isn't great. I chose it because we see it all day like I said. It's easily attainable. Something like this ridiculous gearing would drastically shorten the clutch life. Worse yet, it would probably damage the flywheel quite a bit so it would need resurfacing or replacement...
What data do you have to support this assumption?
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  #79  
Old 02-07-2016, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Grzpdlr View Post
What data do you have to support this assumption?
The wonderful world of physics! Where there is no nonsense and numbers matter.
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  #80  
Old 02-07-2016, 03:35 PM
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On my 1983 240D. There is so much flywheel inertia that I can literally let out the clutch without giving any gas pedal in 1st gear. This is on flat ground, with stock rear end gearing (3.69 I think). Unless you are driving in San Francisco or Pittsburgh I would think lower (3.09 or 2.88) would make 1st gear more usable in most driving situations. This assumes you have proper clutch- gas pedal technique. I have known some drivers who have destroyed their clutch multiple times, (10,000 mile increments) because of improper technique. I' am hoping to make this change to my car in the near future.
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  #81  
Old 02-07-2016, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rotorbudd View Post
I need to check mine when I get back to work Monday, but I was seem to remember mine being a 3.28 ratio.
The biggest difference I see in drivability is the shift points are moved up in the mph range to much more useful ranges. (if that makes sense)
3.28 is not an MB ratio... 2.24, 2.47, 2.69, 2.88, 3.06, 3.07, 3.46, 3.58, 3.69, and 3.92 are the ratios that I can think of that might be in your car.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mannys9130 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grzpdlr View Post
What data do you have to support this assumption?
The wonderful world of physics! Where there is no nonsense and numbers matter.
But do you have numbers? I think you're relying more on conventional wisdom than physics here.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hockeyboysomers View Post
I' am hoping to make this change to my car in the near future.
Please report back! I have a 240D turbo and am going to try throwing in a 3.07 with a 717.400 5-speed, which would give me an effective first gear that would be the same as a 4-speed in first with the 2.88.
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  #82  
Old 02-07-2016, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hockeyboysomers View Post
On my 1983 240D. There is so much flywheel inertia that I can literally let out the clutch without giving any gas pedal in 1st gear.
You can do that with most vehicles if you're careful. I can even do it with my Street Triple that has such a tall first gear that it goes all the way to 67 mph before it hits the rev limiter.

Quote:
This is on flat ground, with stock rear end gearing (3.69 I think). Unless you are driving in San Francisco or Pittsburgh I would think lower (3.09 or 2.88) would make 1st gear more usable in most driving situations. This assumes you have proper clutch- gas pedal technique. I have known some drivers who have destroyed their clutch multiple times, (10,000 mile increments) because of improper technique. I' am hoping to make this change to my car in the near future.
I have the stock 3.07 in my 300D with a 240D manual transmission. I generally run 1st gear up to about 20 before shifting, unless I'm in a hurry to get somewhere, in which case it gets run up to the dots. When I had a 240D I usually floored it and shifted at the dots. I recall first gear was good for about 21 mph in that car.
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  #83  
Old 02-08-2016, 12:05 PM
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3.28 is not an MB ratio... 2.24, 2.47, 2.69, 2.88, 3.06, 3.07, 3.46, 3.58, 3.69, and 3.92 are the ratios that I can think of that might be in your car.

Yeah, just checked, 3.69. That's what I took out.
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  #84  
Old 02-08-2016, 05:24 PM
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quote: You can do that with most vehicles if you're careful. I can even do it with my Street Triple that has such a tall first gear that it goes all the way to 67 mph before it hits the rev limiter.

I'm sure you can run your motorcycle to 60 plus mph in first gear. You might not have considered that your motorcycle red line is perhaps 6,000 rpm higher than a Mercedes diesel
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  #85  
Old 11-27-2016, 12:55 AM
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Do you know if I change my original differential to 3.07, will it be showing the correct speed?
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  #86  
Old 11-27-2016, 01:22 AM
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The speedos are matched from the factory to the diff gear. If you deviate from the stock ratio you need to swap the speedo along with the diff. if you want it to be accurate. Same is true for tires. If you change the diameter significantly you'll throw the speedo off. a 3.07 came in the 300 turbo and the 300 SD until 85 which it changed to 2.88.
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  #87  
Old 11-28-2016, 01:37 AM
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Alright I'll be looking for a speedo as well, thanks a lot for your help!
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  #88  
Old 11-28-2016, 10:35 AM
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Some of us have wondered for a long time just how much rear end ratio could be handled in reality by a 240d. Without making driving the car a real issue.


All I have really observed is speculation and opinions. Some have felt it would not be as bad as thought many times. I just do not know. Certainly if the car can cope with a lower ratio in general they need it.
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  #89  
Old 11-28-2016, 11:05 AM
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I have not read the whole thread. It is my thought though that I'd probably not deviate from the stock ratio more than one step.....in other words perhaps a 3.58 or a 3.46 especially if the car is a stick. YOu could get by with a 307 for example if you have the automatic probably but the car will be pretty sluggish (what am I saying a 240d automatic is very sluggish.) The 307 would make it much more sluggish.

I built a 123 body starting with a 240D. I put in a euro 300D and ultimately had a five speed overdrive unit with the 307 diff behind it. Anything taller than that would not be a good setup, but with that engine the 307 was fine. Once accustomed to it it worked just fine. ...and it would routinely deliver 35 mpg. Running on roads with 55 mph, my daughter had a couple tanks that delivered 40 mpg.

That setup was a pleasure to drive.
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #90  
Old 11-30-2016, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W123dieselpower View Post
Do you know if I change my original differential to 3.07, will it be showing the correct speed?



82 - 84 300D will have the 3:07 Differential. Use the speedometer from these 3 years.


82 - 84 300SD will have the 3:07 Differential as well. Use a W123 300D spedo.


The W126 spedo is electric and the W123 spedo is mechanical.
The W126 spedo will not fit/work in a W123.


If you keep your 83 240D spedo. it will work, it will not give you the correct speed or the odometer will be off also.
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