Mike and Jim...thanks for the replys.

Mike i just located a switch($20) today almost identical to the pic you posted, except its black on the bottom not red and has the triangle on the red lens.

I now have turn signals, simpile and easy enough, just a bad switch.
Thanks for all the help fellows.

I also bought a pack of the 1.2v bulbs for some of the indicator lights(temp control area).

The clock quit working today, must be some kind of short or something.

Ahhh! I feel much better(and Safe) now that i have turn signals....no more people cursing me from behind or drivers thinking im cutting them off!

Speedo, window regulator(electric drivers front), shifter boot and rear shocks are on the agenda next.

Oh yeah No AC! And its hot in NC this summer, plus its a diesel...anyone have any advice on keeping the heat from the engine from coming in at your feet, this car seems to be bad, mabey cause its a black car to it seems hotter!

Yesterday i installed a window regulator and electric motor for the drivers front door. Thanks for the parts Ben Ridge!

Now the car will click when turning the key over after pre heating...sometimes it will crank and sometimes it wont.

We took the car up to the top of Grandfather Mnt. to the mile high swinging bridge two weeks ago and it didnt start this clicking starter thing until the next day after the long trip. The car preformed great the whole way up the mountain and back.1.5 ti 2 hrs drive each way. It wound right up the little mountain road like a gas car! i was very impressed, my girlfriend couldnt believe it ran so well! The next day i finally talked her into driving the car somewhere(she hadnt drove it at all yet!) So she was going to take it out for a drive and i told her(many times before to)how to crank it...well she goes out then comes back in and says it wouldnt start! I was like awhhh...i'll show you. Sure enough it wouldnt start! i was p.o.ed!
It would just click...she was unsure of what she did when i questioned her about how she started it.

It had been cranking with the clutch Not pressed in and out of gear ever since ive started driving it(this is wrong i was told). It should only crank with the clutch in and the car in nuetral, right?

Anyway it will crank if i turn the key back and forth a couple of times after somepreheating.
Did the long trip fry my starter? I here the selinoid clicking and the starter is a Bosh heavy duty rebuilt under warrenty.
How long can i let it go until it quits completely? I wont take it to far on the road until i get it fixed right.

I guess i'll look into a heat shield of some sorts if it turns out to be a faulty starter(brushes deteriorating).

Glove box lid and lever are next as well as A/C and rear shocks,rear speakers.

Paul,

Raise the hood (bonnet) and take off both battery cables, clean the posts and inside the cables and reinstall. Put a couple of those non corrosion pads on the terminals before reinstalling. Check the ground connection right next to the battery to see if there's any rust underneath the bolt when you take it off. If you do all this, I'll bet your clicking problem dissappeares. Had a similar problem myself the other day when I installed a new style glow plug relay in my old style non relay 240D. Came out the next morning and "clicking", tightened the battery cables and "No Problem". Hope this helps. Glad the window works!!

Ben

I tried all that except the ground to the frame area...(it looked rusty and i didnt think twice about it). Everything else looks fine, new battery and clean post. Yeah we used to use the battery washers in a truck garage i worked at.

Thanks for the advice.

Im working my way thru the Haynes manual to!

Paul,

What is the voltage across the battery? Should be more than 12 Volts, more like 12.5 or so with the car not running and 13.6 or more with the car running and no electrical load at idle. If you don't have the right voltage, you may have a weak battery or an alternator with worn brushes or some other problems. Pull the regulator (on back of alternator, pull connections, spring clip and two screws, then rotate it slightly as you take it out (outside/top surface comes away from the housing first, kind of rotating the back surface toward the centerline if that makes sense). Check the brushes and if they are little quarter inch nubs, they are shot. New ones are about an inch or longer. Check the wear surfaces which should be smooth. The brushes should be about the same length, if not it is an idication of either mechanical or electrical imbalance. Which translates to rebuild time. If you go the rebuild route, make sure the diodes are checked too. If you go the route of a rebuilt unit, make sure the unit is rebuilt by a reputable shop. I have been set back weeks on fixing similar problems by a faulty rebuilt unit from the dealer and others on the forum have reported similar issues with rebuilt units from chain parts stores. Try FastLane as they did a good job on the rebuilt starter I got from them.

Glad to hear the car is trying to cooperate! Good luck, Jim

__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

Jim, i did check the voltage the other day, not running it was around 12 volts(i need to double check with it running this time).

Its been cranking within a few key turns so ive been shutting it off when i go into the store or what not.

Paul,

I read over your starter problem again. Since it seems to have started just after your girl friend tried to take it for a drive, you don't suppose that she got the start-up instructions wrong and just tried to start it like a gas car without letting the glow plugs warm up. I can't remember which glow plug system a '79 has but if it's the series system, one could do an awful lot of cranking before they warmed up. Since it seems that you're starting better now, maybe the system has charged up enough to handle starting.

Ben

I cleaned up the ground strap area at the frame. It was real rusty and weak looking connection(previous reading was 12 volts off. I read more on the volt meter off at 12.5 and cranked over 14 volts. Cranked alright a couple of times then put her to bed.
I'll have a chance to see if that helps when i drive some Sunday.

Thanks for the advice everyone.

I had a appointment with a local shop to trouble shoot the starter problem...i canceled. Hope this keeps me out of the shop for a while.

Paul,

Way to go. Hope that's the answer!!

Ben

I think that fixed it! No clicking what so ever today....so far(usually it would have clicked a couple of times, but not yet).Plus the battery is reading higher voltage(thanks Jim!)

Thanks Ben!
Did you ever locate a stock jack and lug wrench for a 240 d 79 123?

Later,Paul.

BTW, Sandi my girlfriend is relieved that she didnt cause the problem. She is really starting to like the car...exsp. when we are crusing down the interstate and its smooth as silk...and not having to visit the gas station but once a week. She still hasnt drove it yet!

Working on locating radiator hoses. I had to repair the lower one from a gash made by the alt. pully! It seems that since the bottom radiator support is rusted and gone the unit was moving back and forth during driving.

Ive secured the radiatior as best as i can for now and am waiting for a parts dealer to get the hoses in.

Starter/selnoid is still clicking but it cranks after only one or two key turns.

Paul,

The radiator support on the bottom of your 240D should be two plastic cylinders molded into the lower plastic radiator tank, that stick into two rubber grommets that are clipped into a sheet metal support running from one side of the car to the other.

Sounds like either the plastic tabs are broken off or the little rubber grommets are missing and allowing the radiator to move. Have a close look down there!!

Maybe all you need is a couple of grommets, which I might have.

Anyway, have a look. While you're at it, make certain that the upper metal clips have rubber pads under them as well.

Ben

That "sheet metal support" is what i think im missing!

Let me know if you have one...i'll check my hanes manual for a pic or post a pic of the front of the car underneath, its wierd but the radiator is moving a little bit

The hose on top is a MB and the lower one wasnt, mabey it was to long or stuck out to much.

Im still trying to locate a junked 79 around here but no luck.(i knew i was needing to find this front support air dam-part).