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  #1  
Old 12-11-2015, 02:57 PM
Registered Maineiac
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Maine
Posts: 364
Cruise is jumpy

The cruise control in my 84 300td is a bit jumpy, especially down slight hills. I don't usually use cruise at less than 65mph, but it's better the faster I go.

Some things to note.. It used to cut out when I hit bumps, I cleaned the electrical contacts on the plug under the hood, and now that's gone away. Still jumpy.

I took the speedo head out to fix the odometer, which was successful, and now the speedo is jumpy at lower speeds, this had zero effect on the cruise control, so I probably broke the damper in the speedo and not the cable. Just noted because the VR sensor for the cruise appears to be in the speedo head.

The service records for the car indicate that the cruise amp has been replaced at least 3 times since 1989.... Maybe something is causing it grief?

Then the last thing that may be the root cause, there's play in the ball/cup throttle linkages between the cruise motor and the Rube Goldberg machine on the valve cover. I did adjust the throttle linkages as per the FSM because I was only getting about 80% throttle, that made zero change in the cruise control.

Maybe it's some combo of the above, I just don't know what the preferred method is of fixing those issues. I searched but couldn't find a lot in the way of tightening up the ball/cup seats.

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  #2  
Old 12-11-2015, 07:27 PM
ROLLGUY's Avatar
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,230
Forum member James Dean is the go-to guy for cruise control fixes.
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  #3  
Old 12-11-2015, 09:10 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Greater Metropolitan Beaverdam VA
Posts: 2,877
The cruise sensor

on my 1983 is attached to the speedo in the cluster. In my case, the major improvement was made by lubricating the speedo cable with a teflon spray lube.

As your speedo needle jumps so shall your cruise control.
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  #4  
Old 12-11-2015, 09:34 PM
Registered Maineiac
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Maine
Posts: 364
Well the speedo needle wasn't jump until after I took it apart... Do you have to remove the cable from the trans end to lubricate it, or can you pull the cable out of the tube?
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  #5  
Old 12-11-2015, 09:54 PM
jay_bob's Avatar
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 3,941
Feedback control systems have a hard time regulating when they have bad input (sticking speedometer cable) and slop in the output linkage (so it is chasing its tail trying to find the sweet spot).

I would start by getting that right and see if that fixes it.
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
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  #6  
Old 12-12-2015, 06:15 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Greater Metropolitan Beaverdam VA
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No. I sprayed lube from the instrument in without removing the inner cable. I also put a very light dab of general purpose grease at the coupling.

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