Coil spring compressor - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

funola · #16 12-17-2015, 10:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Junkman

Do everything while you're there....ball joints, upper & lower control arm bushings, guide rod mount etc. Total is ~ $500 in parts but your front end will be new and you won't have to deal with that system again. Your car will steer and handle line a Mercedes.
................

I am doing the rears, there are no ball joints there as far as I know.

funola · #17 12-17-2015, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHZR2

Here is a set of closeups of the real Klann which I managed to get my hands on...

Can you tell whether the Klann is forged or not? My compressor arrived. I was surprised it is so heavy! Most of the weight is in the plates. My guess they are not forged and the plates are made extra heavy to handle the loads. I'll take some close ups of mine later.

ps. What camera (and settings, lighting) did you use to take those sharp photos?

One of the plates says "Miller". None of the photos says "Klann". Is it a Klann?

Also, my set has only one screw, yours has two. What's the difference in the 2 screws?

vstech · #18 12-17-2015, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

I am doing the rears, there are no ball joints there as far as I know.

Fyi... no compressor is needed for the rear springs...

vstech · #19 12-17-2015, 12:07 PM

I have the same Klann he has (nowhere NEAR as clean and pretty...), mine also does not say Klann on it. It is not forged, it is billet cnc machined. They likely use a special alloy to handle the strain.

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

Can you tell whether the Klann is forged or not? My compressor arrived. I was surprised it is so heavy! Most of the weight is in the plates. My guess they are not forged and the plates are made extra heavy to handle the loads. I'll take some close ups of mine later.

ps. What camera (and settings, lighting) did you use to take those sharp photos?

One of the plates says "Miller". None of the photos says "Klann". Is it a Klann?

Also, my set has only one screw, yours has two. What's the difference in the 2 screws?

funola · #20 12-17-2015, 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

Fyi... no compressor is needed for the rear springs...

Then, why did the FSM specify a coil spring compressor for the rears?

funola · #21 12-17-2015, 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

I have the same Klann he has (nowhere NEAR as clean and pretty...), mine also does not say Klann on it. It is not forged, it is billet cnc machined. They likely use a special alloy to handle the strain.

His photos clearly shows the plates are not machined from a billet. Forgimg makes it stronger. 12.9 metric fasteners like head bolts are forged.

Diesel911 · #22 12-17-2015, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

I have the same Klann he has (nowhere NEAR as clean and pretty...), mine also does not say Klann on it. It is not forged, it is billet cnc machined. They likely use a special alloy to handle the strain.

Apparently (Miller) SPX uses the Kann Tool marked differently or made by them but the situation is not clear. Misc. Notes:
KLANN KL-0025-1K (numbers from SamsTag) Coil Spring Compressor = Miller SPX 102.
20000 N internal spring compressor. KLANN KL-0025-1K relabeled as Miller 9150/1/2 for use by Chrysler dealerships on the Chrysler Crossfire.
Suitable for the long coil springs used on w123 and w126 Mercedes, which are a major challenge and can be a safety issue with external and other designs.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3946256/1

I think you don't get the same number of plates with the spx one. but that is a guess.

vstech · #23 12-17-2015, 01:59 PM

The FSM wishes you to set the LCA or trailing arm bushings with the vehicle under load.

I can't imagine a reason you would need the springs compressed on the rear.

Perhaps their procedure allows you to pull them without bolting the diff from the floor pan?

But if you support the car by the jack points, and support the diff with a jack, then take out the four 13mm bolts from the mount, the entire trailing arm and rear subframe drops plenty to remove the rear springs.

funola · #24 12-17-2015, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

The FSM wishes you to set the LCA or trailing arm bushings with the vehicle under load.

I can't imagine a reason you would need the springs compressed on the rear.

Perhaps their procedure allows you to pull them without bolting the diff from the floor pan?

But if you support the car by the jack points, and support the diff with a jack, then take out the four 13mm bolts from the mount, the entire trailing arm and rear subframe drops plenty to remove the rear springs.

I am replacing the rear shocks and springs, not LCA or trailing arm bushings.

Dropping the diff and subframe to remove rear springs? Seems like a lot more work than using a spring compressor. Is that the way you do them? How long does it take you?

vstech · #25 12-17-2015, 04:54 PM

5 minutes... It's just 4 small bolts.

vstech · #26 12-17-2015, 04:55 PM

You're not dropping the subframe, you are only un bolting the diff mount from the floor pan, the subframe drops on its pivot, it remains bolted to the car.

funola · #27 12-17-2015, 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

5 minutes... It's just 4 small bolts.

Please shoot a video next time you remove rear springs from a W123. I want to see it done in 5 minutes.

vstech · #28 12-17-2015, 05:27 PM

Ok... I'll see if I can shoot a video of me removing 4 bolts in 5 minutes... Then dropping the jack holding up the diff...

Maybe two minutes?

funola · #29 12-17-2015, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

Ok... I'll see if I can shoot a video of me removing 4 bolts in 5 minutes... Then dropping the jack holding up the diff...

Maybe two minutes?

The subject is replacing rear shocks and springs on a W123, not just removing 4 bolts on the diff.

vstech · #30 12-17-2015, 07:08 PM

Ahh, then yeah. A bit more time. Nowhere near as much as compressing two springs though.