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#1
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Save or Scrap this 1983 300D?
Hi,
Looking for a bit of advice here. Long story relatively short, my parents bought a 1983 300D new in 1982 which was in use by us until 2007. At that time, it was given to my brother in law who used it for another three years until it was parked and not used five years ago. I'm feeling a bit of nostalgia for what was my first car and I'm wondering if I should try and recommission it. Here are the issues that I know of: 1) Vacuum leak resulting in non-working locks (and probably other issues) 2) A/C does not work 3) Dented rear door 4) Small rust spots 5) Some transmission delays or slipping reported 6) Rear exhaust rubber hangers cracked and fell off (exhaust was new though) The biggest concern is that nothing was done before it was left to sit. If I can get it in reasonable condition, I really don't care how it looks and am happy to drive it as is. Except for the dent, it's in good cosmetic condition and the interior is nearly perfect. I'm willing to put in my own labor and spend up to $1,000. Anything above that and it's probably not worth it. What do you think? Thanks!! Alex
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1983 300D (parked for four years) 2012 VW Sportwagen TDI Manual 2001 Miata SE 1962 Chevrolet Corvair Rampside |
#2
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Well the vacuum leaks and transmission issues could very well be related. A\C is not usually a "hard fix per say, just usually expensive.
If the rust doesn't concern you, then it doesn't sound too bad. You have a car and know the entire history of it, that's huge. Honestly, these cars don't mind sitting nearly as much as you would think. The only real issue will be stuck brakes from sitting. The rest is probably fine. I say go for it. $1000 and your labor will probably fix everything but the A\C and get you a good running car.
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2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily 2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily 1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended 1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper 1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL 2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped 1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above 1992 BMW 525i -traded in 1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103 1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one 1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold |
#3
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What you are describing about the car and plus it is what I think is a family hierloom, you better not scrap it!
Bring it back on the road, keep it stored, and/or restore it fully later on are all great options for that particular car. But please don't scrap it!
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1983 123.133 California - GreaseCar Veg System |
#4
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ditto
X2 what DeliveryValve said. All the expertise to bring the car back to life and make is safe and reliable is right here on the forum.
The issues you mentioned have all been handled in this forum.
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior Cluster Needles Paint New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
#5
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You're all right; it would be a shame to not at least try and rehab it. I'd like to get it road worthy to get it 100 miles from Queens, NY to the end of Long Island, NY where I have a garage. What should I do? It has five year old fuel in the tank. Can I try and fire it up with that or do I need to find a way to drain and refill? Anything to worry about regarding fuel and brake lines that might burst? I know I need to change the battery and replace the missing exhaust hangers.
Thanks in advance
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1983 300D (parked for four years) 2012 VW Sportwagen TDI Manual 2001 Miata SE 1962 Chevrolet Corvair Rampside |
#6
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1983 was a good year. I had one (sold 2 years ago). It was much less troublesome with electrical issues than the 85 that I currently have. Post up some pics. Depending on how long ago and the environment it was stored in, the engine may or may not just start right up. Where is the car?
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#7
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Funola,
The car is currently sitting outside in a locked driveway in Astoria, Queens, NY. The downside is that for about 2 or 3 of the years, it was sitting outside without a cover, then with a cover. A partial upside is that it is only a partially sunny place, but under a tree. I will need to take away a thin layer of the finish to have a hope of getting it shiny. I'll post photos when I can get to the car within a week or so, but for now, see attached for what it looked like before I gave it away. Check out the dent on the rear drivers side door. To tell the truth, I've held on to it partially because I have a set of original AMG Penta wheels that I've been looking forward to refinishing and installing. Alex
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1983 300D (parked for four years) 2012 VW Sportwagen TDI Manual 2001 Miata SE 1962 Chevrolet Corvair Rampside |
#8
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Quote:
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
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AAA Towing?
Quote:
The Premium Membership gives you up to 250 miles (I think) per tow at no charge. I have the coverage just cause I have an old benz lol. Used it once when driving back from another state and the belt tensioner snapped. Had it towed about 140 miles to my home garage. May save you getting stuck half way trying to get there with out the chance of doing a little systems refresh first i.e. new fuel, etc.
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1986 300SDL 440,xxx |
#10
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Fix it up for sure.
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#11
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Exhaust hanger rubber rings are ~$2 ea. Change before your muffler drags and $$$ damage.
Tranny shifting is via vacuum, so fix that and it may shift fine. Vacuum pump rebuild kit is ~$100 if you have the later 1-tube type, ~$12 for the earlier 2-tube type. It is easy to rebuild (after you clean away all the gunk), you pop out outlet valves and replace the plastic piston ring (or rubber diaphragm in early pumps). You might even forget that an install a $50 used electric vac pump from a newish VW diesel. AC - try actuating the clutch manually by applying 12 V via a 2" jumper wire. Remove the relay and jump terminals 30 to 87. If the inner part of the compressor turns, it is likely OK. May just be low on refrigerant. Rust is trickier. What looks like a small surface spot may actually have rusted thru from behind and turn out much more extensive once you start picking at it. Not true with these cars here, but I saw that a lot when I lived in the east. A cheap repair is to cut to sound metal and cover the hole w/ fiberglass-epoxy then Bondo.
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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's 1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport 1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans |
#12
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Quote:
P.S. from the one picture, that's a pretty nice looking 300D
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2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily 2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily 1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended 1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper 1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL 2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped 1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above 1992 BMW 525i -traded in 1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103 1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one 1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold |
#13
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Unless the car has seriously rusted in the past 4 years I would fix it.
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#14
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The transmission issues might just be that the bowden cable needs adjustment. Possible free fix there. As far as fuel, it's possible to run the car from a fuel canister under the hood. The fuel pump is sort of built into the injection pump and it sucks it all the way from the fuel tank at the back of the car to the injection pump, so it's no problem from a can under the hood. Just buy some fuel hose and run it from can to prefilter, then run the return line into the can also. Oh, make sure your trans and oil cooler lines aren't leaking so the engine or trans don't get killed. Also check coolant hoses for mushyness. You'll kill the car fast if you pop a hose and don't shut down almost immediately.
Sent from my MB865 using Tapatalk
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1982 300sd from craigslist $800 greased on one tank with NO CONVERSION in the Hot Texas Sun. (currently dead & awaiting engine damage investigation and/or longblock swap) new daily: '03 vw 5speed jetta tdi wagon. bagged&chipped |
#15
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Thanks for all of the follow up and encouragement. I had just assumed that the vacuum leaks were caused by lines or rubber connectors that had aged and cracked. I'll look into refurbishing the pump by running a search on this forum. I have also adjusted the bowden cable in the past (as well as the vacuum actuator?) so it may not be that. It's all conjecture until I try and fire it up, which I will next week. I'll report back, will also take some photos.
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1983 300D (parked for four years) 2012 VW Sportwagen TDI Manual 2001 Miata SE 1962 Chevrolet Corvair Rampside |
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