I am about 2 hours North east of you. In the center of MI just north of Lansing.

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Bustin knuckles since 1981

Aah, thanks. Not a quick stop on my way to town.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Pulled intake manifold and glow plugs. Rolled each cylinder over to top dead center and applied 60psi shop air.
CYL 1,3,5 made a pffwap sound then sealed , intake valves maybe, then sealed in like 5 seconds. All have a fair amount of crankcase blow by.
CYL 2, 4 sealed right away with very little crankcase blow by.
CYL 6 did not seal until I banged on the lifter a few times with a hammer handle and have same crankcase blow by as 1,3,5

When they took cyl head to have it checked I think they flushed solvent into the intake port bud did not clean all the sludge and carbon out of it and a bunch of it got onto the face of the valves. The ports were 1/2 full.

I took scrapers and rags and got as much as I could out. Then soaked with Mercruiser Powertune and let set over night. Wipe everything clean roll engine over a couple of times then flood intake ports again and let set 24 more hours. Now ports and valves are shiny clean. Got turned on to the Mercruiser Powertune by a mechanic that worked for me that did boats on the side. Spray it on carbon, let set over night and wipe off with a rag. Pretty awesome stuff

I am going to tip engine over towards the injection pump and dump mineral spirits into the intake port and roll engine over to flush as much crap out the glow plug holes as possible. Today.

I am hoping the Powertune will get down into the rings and dissolve any crap that might have them gummed up.

I am going to leave the intake off and do a compression test after I get engine back in.

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Bustin knuckles since 1981

Hmm... with the suspicion that the cam base circle is bigger/too big, pull the cam and recheck leakdown.

Sixto
83 300SD

Finished install on engine last weekend and still ran the same.
Pulled intake manifold back off and did compression test. With Schrader valve leaking in tester all cylinders made from 325 to 350 psi pressure. This is down from before head gasket.

SOUND INTERESTING YET!

Rigged up a Cam Degree Wheel on camshaft and a dial indicator lifters on cylinder 1. Can not figure how to put degree wheel on crank. But I can just double readings on cam to read crankshaft.

Exhaust valve stays open til 20 degrees after TDC. Intake valve opens 20 degrees before TDC. Seems to me 40 deg is a lot of valve overlap.

Intake valve stays open until 40 deg after BDC. That would be 1/3 of the compression stroke. I THINK THIS IS A PROBLEM.

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Bustin knuckles since 1981

If you don't have leakdown test equipment, can you rig the compression tester fitting to blow air into the cylinders? If so, set a cylinder to TDC, hold the crank steady then blow into the cylinder. Do you hear or feel air blowing out the intake or exhaust runners? I forget if this is a .970 or .971. If it's a .970, remove the pipe between the exhaust manifold collector and turbo. If it's a .971, remove the EGR supply pipe just upstream of the turbo. I suppose you can remove the EGR supply pipe in a .970 as well.

Sixto
83 300SD

Replaced cam. Was warrantied as the mounting flange was broken before it was shipped. Still ran the same. Pulled injectors and had tested and they are fine. Bought a pump timing tool and while rotating engine noticed cam and pump are not on same stroke. 180` off. Evidently when my son was doing head gasket he rotated engine to check for bent rod with dial indicators and installed cam on wrong TDC one rotation off. Have together today and will post back.

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Bustin knuckles since 1981