05 CDI wheel bearing question - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

barry12345 · #16 02-15-2016, 11:14 AM

A good test may be to check the end clearance with a dial gauge before removing and repacking the bearings. I suspect the surface hardness of the bearings when starting to wear is worn through easily.. So if you have too much end clearance the bearing and or races have wear. How much is too much? Only people that do the test may define that over time. No signifigant increased end play they can be repacked.

Although it seems funny if most brands of bearings do the same on these cars.

I would not repack and instead change these bearings with the presence of much additional end play. Also maybe the problem will go away with another brand of bearings.

Since cost is not an issue I doubt I would use the brand that was originally sourced by Mercedes as well.

All this said I must make it clear that I have never had a hub off one of these cars. I have just heard their bearings are troublesome.

jay_bob · #17 02-15-2016, 05:04 PM

It is a little difficult to change the bearings but not impossible with the right tools.

The trick is to catch it before it fails. Much easier to perform a proactive bearing replacement than to also have to deal with replacing the spindle.

Zulfiqar · #18 02-15-2016, 05:25 PM

These cars have tapered bearings like the old days, pack with grease - pack some into hub cavity and adjust the nut, its doable by hand if you have the knack for it - The benz way of using the dial gauge was to make this task repeatable by any person.

If you hear a rumble replace the bearings immediately - you have an incredibly narrow window of time to save the spindle.

Usually bearing failures are seen more in the dead of winters (even a search here will somewhat show that) - a removal and repack with fresh grease is not too much cost either, a container of wheel bearing grease costs 5 dollars, the seal is expensive on the later cars like W211 but way cheaper than a new spindle.

jay_bob · #19 02-15-2016, 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zulfiqar

These cars have tapered bearings like the old days, pack with grease - pack some into hub cavity and adjust the nut, its doable by hand if you have the knack for it - The benz way of using the dial gauge was to make this task repeatable by any person.

If you hear a rumble replace the bearings immediately - you have an incredibly narrow window of time to save the spindle.

Usually bearing failures are seen more in the dead of winters (even a search here will somewhat show that) - a removal and repack with fresh grease is not too much cost either, a container of wheel bearing grease costs 5 dollars, the seal is expensive on the later cars like W211 but way cheaper than a new spindle.

Agreed on the dial indicator, it allowed even a newbie like me to set the play properly. You just have to have proper technique - compress the grease out of the way, and be sure to set the dial indicator in the center of its travel where it is the most accurate.

The cold seems to bring out the failures probably due to the grease losing viscosity.

I had absolutely no discernible warning. I am one of those people who make a habit of turning off the radio regularly to listen for noises of trouble, and I heard none the last time I had done that when I drove the car.

I was coming up my street and it failed as I rounded the last corner to my house. Just a big KLUNK and the sound of driving on gravel, and I live on a paved street. That is why I recommend for anyone to do a proactive replacement if you don't know when they were serviced last. Like the OP says, you basically lose all support of the wheel and the caliper keeps everything from totally separating. I'm glad I was only doing about 15 at the time and 150 feet from my house.

Bearing kit is around $100/side at the dealer and they should stock these, along with the special grease. Cheap insurance for helping to avoid a failure that will definitely leave you stranded. The spindle is nearly $500, is not stocked, and requires a spring compressor to change.

engatwork · #20 02-15-2016, 07:22 PM

You can typically find good, used spindles on ebay or some place such as that. I've had to purchase one from ebay before.

chronometers · #21 02-15-2016, 11:42 PM

Pre-1980 Mercedes Maintenance manuals use to call for pulling cap and renewing grease periodically. When I last changed oil and rotated tires, I removed grease caps and saw there was not much grease in them. I added 10 grams on each side of the Mercedes specified grease.

NH82W123 · #22 02-16-2016, 05:01 PM

Seems the Meyle bearing kits for the W211 are getting hard to find. Pelican doesn't have any (though they're still in the catalog) and two sellers on eBay are out. I was able to find one at a local import car parts place, but it was very expensive. Looks like before long the only option will be to buy a new hub assembly with the bearing already installed.

Zulfiqar · #23 02-16-2016, 10:21 PM

I have not yet looked up w211 bearing cone and cups but they should be some standard production size. E.g. the w210 takes a set 12 and 17. I buy them in Timken brand as individual units from amazon.

jay_bob · #24 02-17-2016, 06:28 AM

I am reasonably certain that the genuine Mercedes kit for the 210 had Timken bearings.

It would be lunacy for the MB engineers to use a custom part for this instead of something off the shelf.

Zulfiqar · #25 02-17-2016, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jay_bob

I am reasonably certain that the genuine Mercedes kit for the 210 had Timken bearings.

It would be lunacy for the MB engineers to use a custom part for this instead of something off the shelf.

The factory bearings in a W210 are either FAG or NTN, the replacement kits usually have timken or SKF

I was looking up bits n pieces of information, the wheel bearings for a W211 RWD are

set 12 for the outer - cost 5-20 dollars depending on where you buy

the inner one is part number 140 981 03 05 which coincides with 32008XQ (metric sized) - range from 15-40 dollars depending on vendor/brand - I believe this part is also employed in the W220.

all you need from the dealer would be the grease seal which has the ABS tone wheel magnets in it and a tin of grease from your parts store.

NH82W123 · #26 02-21-2016, 10:58 AM

Avoid the Meyle kits for the W211 even if you can find them. The included seal is incorrect. (This was my experience, at least, as well as at least a few others as I've now discovered who left feedback on eBay, etc.)

The correct seal part number (that has the ABS magnets) is 025-997-1647.

The Febi/Bilstein hub that comes pre-loaded with the bearings includes the correct seal. Wheel Hub with Bearings 2303300325 - Febi Bilstein - Mercedes-Benz - 230-330-03-25-M36 | Pelican Parts

Josh8loop · #27 05-20-2016, 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NH82W123

Avoid the Meyle kits for the W211 even if you can find them. The included seal is incorrect. (This was my experience, at least, as well as at least a few others as I've now discovered who left feedback on eBay, etc.)

The correct seal part number (that has the ABS magnets) is 025-997-1647.

The Febi/Bilstein hub that comes pre-loaded with the bearings includes the correct seal. Wheel Hub with Bearings 2303300325 - Febi Bilstein - Mercedes-Benz - 230-330-03-25-M36 | Pelican Parts

Great info there on the wheel seals! Thank you.

Josh8loop · #28 05-20-2016, 09:19 PM

I went ahead and ended up visiting a local bearing supplier a while ago. Unfortunately they did not have a direct cross reference for the larger inner bearing from SKF brand to Timken. I took a chance and ordered a Timken 32008 since it seemed like it may do the job. Unfortunately when this special order bearing came in it was apparent that the inner radius was not quite enough to fit over the spindle properly-I had read on the internet of this possibility, so I should have heeded advice and got OE parts or at least questioned it a bit more. I took a chance and it didn't pay off. I ended up ordering two of the correct MB ones as MB part number A 140 981 03 05 or they can be ordered elsewhere as SKF 32008 X/QVB458 for the tapered bearing, and SKF 32008 X/Q for the outer race. The original SKF part I got from MB is made in India unfortunately.

The outer bearings are fairly standard and are SKF BR12 and can be ordered from ********AZ if need be in Timken brand as Timken SET12. ********AZ has them listed as TM-SET12 on their website for $5.68 each-two will be needed, one for each side. They are made in USA. The Timken bearings I have are marked LM12710 on the outer race, and LM12749 on the tapered bearing itself. NAPA also sells SKF bearings as BR12 and are around $11.00 each. Some are made in Japan, and some in Mexico you will just have to dig through their stock. Really if a guy planned this correctly between getting the TM-SET12 for $5.68 each from ********AZ, and the A 140 981 03 05 for around $25.00 each from Vic at Husker or Pelican it should be possible to get the front bearings replaced for a total bearing cost of around 65.00 plus you will need the grease, and the seals. Hopefully I will be installing these in the next couple weeks and will post the results.