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#1
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The Insanity Tour 2 - Trans Replacement Time
I've had my 300D Turbo for a little over a year now, the only real annoyance through the whole thing has been the trans. The PO or the PO's mechanic messed it up and I've been more or less waiting for it to die.
Which it did. Once it knew that the jeep was down and I didn't have anything else to drive. Jerk. It went from "I'm a 4 speed trans that doesn't like the cold" to "I'm a one speed trans that doesn't like anything" over two days of city driving. So today I have taken delivery of a shiny new(ish) freshly rebuilt 722.317 (and torque converter). Now for the insanity tour part. The goal is to take the old one out friday, put the new one in saturday, and drive it to LA on sunday. With provision to drive to LA monday morning if needed. So I come before the peachparts patrons to ask, are there any specialty tools I need to get my hands on before saturday at 6pm when I realize I need them? Any advice on removal and installation?
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1996 ZJ Green Laredo V8, 2.5" OME and Bilsteins, 33's, Holes drilled in the roof. 1998 ZJ Platinum Limited 5.9, Backyard Parts Fodder 1987 Mercedes-Benz 300D Turbo, The diesel daily, 30mpg in style. |
#2
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Get a 3' or 4' long, 3/8" extension and go in over the top of the transmission from the back side of the transmission to get to the upper transmission to block fasteners.
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Jim |
#3
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You're going to have to get that thing up pretty high to slip the tranny under. Most people use jack stands, but I prefer to use cribs...a lot safer!
I've always pulled the engine when I've had to swap out the tranny so I can't give you specific guidance in doing it from underneath. You'll probably have to pull the driveshaft so a couple of large crescent wrenches or pliers to separate the two halves if you separate it. A transmission jack might be nice to have or help to balance it on a floor jack while lifting it in place. Make sure you get the torque converter fully seated or you'll damage the trans. Check the flex disk and trans mount while you're under there. Might also be a good time to replace the exhaust donuts while under there. Good luck with the project and be safe.
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Current Stable
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#4
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as mentioned above, a 3-4' 3/8" extension (or enough to make 3-4' worth) to get the top two trans mount bolts. Reach up and try to break the bolts free with a 17mm box end before spinning them out with the extensions/socket combo.
outside of that, wax on wax off. i swap transmissions on these in about 2-3 hours, in and back out on the road. not sure why guys insist on pulling engines, these are easy. also, do yourself a favor and replace the front pump oil seal on the trans. i wouldn't dare put in the trans without first replacing the seal
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Allen Kroliczek Oak Grove Autosport | Oak Grove Autosport 01 G500, 82 300TD, quite a few more..... Last edited by bsmuwk; 01-06-2016 at 08:58 PM. |
#5
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Thanks for the advice all, I hesitated to ask about other jobs while I'm in the area.
I have a trans jack, and no desire to pull the engine. I'll see if I can get a new trans mount, I did motor mounts earlier but haven't touched the trans. What am I looking for on the flex plate? Should I be worried about the front pump oil seal on a newly rebuilt trans from a company in high regard?
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1996 ZJ Green Laredo V8, 2.5" OME and Bilsteins, 33's, Holes drilled in the roof. 1998 ZJ Platinum Limited 5.9, Backyard Parts Fodder 1987 Mercedes-Benz 300D Turbo, The diesel daily, 30mpg in style. |
#6
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I've only done this once, but my memory tells me that there's something at the rear of the engine that needs to be removed so that the engine can tilt rearward without breaking it, ... plus the fan shroud. The engine is well balanced on the mounts without the transmission attached.
I have removed a couple, installed one, wasn't complicated but very heavy to hold up by hand, ... took me a while to recover from the muscle strain.
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#7
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Rear tranny support can be removed to drop it down but if you are taking tranny out it should be out anyway.
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Jim |
#8
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Ok, car in the air, time for the fun.
First question. I see mention that I *should* replace the flex discs for the driveshaft, and I see some people saying I *need* to. Are they really one time use?
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1996 ZJ Green Laredo V8, 2.5" OME and Bilsteins, 33's, Holes drilled in the roof. 1998 ZJ Platinum Limited 5.9, Backyard Parts Fodder 1987 Mercedes-Benz 300D Turbo, The diesel daily, 30mpg in style. |
#9
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Quote:
J.G. |
#10
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No, they should be replaced when they start to show signs of cracking or other deterioration. You might be referring to the bolts/nuts, which some say are single use. It's a point of personal preference with the recommendation likely due to attorneys. I, for example, would never say publicly that I may have reused mine on occasion
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Current Stable
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#11
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Well I'll say publicly that I don't have time to care. Called the local MB dealer and the closest set is in LA and wouldn't get here until tuesday. None of the parts houses knew what I was talking about (big surprise).
They don't look that bad though, so I'm comfortable reusing them. I only had to pull three of the bolts to drop the shaft out of the way. I don't say this often, so the 617 guys can get their fill now: I wish the 603 wasn't 6 cylinders, just a little bit shorter and I could tilt the trans down further.
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1996 ZJ Green Laredo V8, 2.5" OME and Bilsteins, 33's, Holes drilled in the roof. 1998 ZJ Platinum Limited 5.9, Backyard Parts Fodder 1987 Mercedes-Benz 300D Turbo, The diesel daily, 30mpg in style. |
#12
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There is the 602 or 605, ...
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#13
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Quote:
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All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#14
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Ok, day two.
Got all the bellhousing bolts removed, finally. Started removing the trans but the torque converter doesn't want to come off the flex plate. It moves a little if I stick a pry bar in between it and the flex plate, but it doesn't want to come out with the trans. There isn't enough room to drop the trans out and then remove the torque converter. Any ideas? And yes I removed the 6 torque converter bolts from the front of the flex plate.
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1996 ZJ Green Laredo V8, 2.5" OME and Bilsteins, 33's, Holes drilled in the roof. 1998 ZJ Platinum Limited 5.9, Backyard Parts Fodder 1987 Mercedes-Benz 300D Turbo, The diesel daily, 30mpg in style. |
#15
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You got to work with it. May need to turn engine over by hand and work your way around to separate.
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Jim |
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