hello everyone,
so i picked up a 75' 240d engine, number 616.011.0601, i got it without an oil pan and cams rusted as hell... once i cleaned everything up, adjusted the valves, put oil in it, solidified the glow circuit, filled the injection pump oil, hooked up a fuel supply, primed it, i tried to fire it up. it spins pretty strong, and sounds alright, but it doesnt even seem like its trying to fire. i dont have an exhaust or intake manifold on it, and i plugged the vacuum looking line that ran from the back of the injection pump to the intake (im guessing)

ive cracked the injector lines at the injectors to check for fuel and there was definitely fuel coming out

anyone have any thoughts? am i missing something obvious?

Thanks in advance, Jack

Isn't the IP dependant on the intake and the butterfly valve governor set up? I think the old engines had a diaphragm and vacuum based governor to control the injection pump.

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'84 190D 2.2 5MT (Red/Palomino) Current car. Love it!
'85 190D 2.2 Auto *Cali* (Blue/Blue) *sold*
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that's pretty much my question. ive adjusted the valves twice, ive got good glow, and the starter spins well, ive tried everything. it just seems like there isnt any fuel.

i dont have an intake to hook it up to, or the money to buy one so im not sure how to proceed..

Hmmmmm. I'm not either. You'd need to simulate the intake environment at idle.

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'84 190D 2.2 5MT (Red/Palomino) Current car. Love it!
'85 190D 2.2 Auto *Cali* (Blue/Blue) *sold*
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any idea how to do that?

Did you aquire and install an Oil Pan on the Engine and put Oil in it?

Running an Engine that has sat al long time and all the Oil has drained out of it and gotten thick dand maybe even hard over time is only going to ruin bearings and journals when cranked dry.

If you have read other post you will here of people speaking of a hand held vacuum tester generically known as a Mighty Vac (there is also a real product called a mighty vac).
It is a hand vacuum pump with a gauge on it.

If you connect that to the Governor Vac connection you sould be able to pump and get some vacuum to displace the Diaphragm in the Governor.

However, that is not the whole story. If the Engine has sat a long time there is likely rust or at least dried fuel inside of the Elements (plungers and barrels) of the fuel Injection Pump.

What can happen is that the element plunger goes up and the crud sticks it up there as it only has the force of the spring to return it back down.

There is a rectangular cover behind the fuel supply/lift pump and you can remove that and see if the springs are pushing the Plungers back down.

So it is entirly possible that all of the element plunbers are stuck up at the top of their stroke.

On an engine that has sat for a long time it is benificial to remove the fuel injection hard lines when you are first cranking so that you can immediately see if fuel is going to come out of the top of the Fuel Injection Pumps.

Never block the holes that the high pressure fuel is going to come out of with your body parts as it will/can inject into you skin and leaves a really nasty and hard to heal wound.

Also resist the temptation to get you face over the top of the fuel injection pump while the engine is cranking as it can easily spurt up into your face and eyes if it is working.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

The pump has a pneumatic governor. It operates by a vacuum created in the intake manifold, in the same manner as old carburetors worked. The vacuum works against the governor spring. The spring pushes the diesel pump into the max position, the vacuum pulls it back towards idle. The “amount” of vacuum is controlled by a butterfly valve, which is controlled by the accelerator pedal. The hose that is connected to the diesel pump has to be connected to the intake manifold where the butterfly valve is. If not, your engine runs away. So do not attempt to run the engine without the hose properly connected. You also have to check whether the governor chamber is air tight.

If the cams were rusted, it is not uncommon for the injectors to be rusted too.

The number is not the engine number.

When you primed it, did you open the bleed screw on the fuel filter and the pump itself?

The engine is stopped and started by means of a manually-operated lever. The lever should not be in the stop position and during starting it should be in the starting position.

yes i did put an oil pan and oil in it.. alone with multiple valve adjustments

as far as i know the engine has only sat for a year or two. it sat outside so it did develop some rust.

ive cracked the top of the injector hard lines at the injectors, and fuel leaks out there. I havent done much with the vacuum governor, although now that i know how it works i will try to figure it out.

but i need a clear answer.. will it start with no intake manifold? ive tried plugging the line, and ive tried leaving it open.

also i have made sure to pull the control lever into start position each time.

while im at it does anyone out there have an intake they will sell me. im in rancho cordova, which is near sacramento California.

Thanks again, jack

No.

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'84 190D 2.2 5MT (Red/Palomino) Current car. Love it!
'85 190D 2.2 Auto *Cali* (Blue/Blue) *sold*
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A forum member, Greazzer, was just looking for a w115 intake manifold, so you might contact him for leads. I think he got a bunch of offers.

On car-part.com, there are several listed. The going rate is around $75, although one place in San Jose had one for $65.

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1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission.
My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear).

It will start, but the engine will then rev to maximum speed and beyond, as there is no vacuum to govern the speed of the engine.

thanks for the info. ive found a manifold, gonna pick it up this weekend hopefully.. any suggestions on dealing with these older injection pumps? anything special i should know about them?

Also, Govert provided a lot of help previously on a benzworld thread. It is a great read to understand the IPs a bit more.
White Smoke 220D - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission.
My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear).

alright, so ive got an intake, i put it on, out all the lincages together, hit the glow plugs, and she still wouldnt start... so i opened up the back of the njection pump to check the pnuematic governor and wah lah! its got a few tears in it.. my guess is these developed while then engine was sitting and then tore when i started fooling around with it. the line that goes to the intake looks free of oil and diesel so i dont think the gov burst while driving..

ive posted a few pics of the governor, any thoughts?

also any good place i could get a new one cheap... like really cheap

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A torn membrane doesn't prevent starting. The governor spring and/or the lever on the pump if it is in the starting position will put the control rod in the full-load position.

You need a micrometer to replace the membrane (to measure the compensation path) and it is a bit fiddly to connect it to the control rod. It is easier in your case because the engine is not in the car.

It still is a bit strange that the engine will not start. Are you sure the engine wasn't damaged insofar that there is no compression, because of damaged valves for instance? Did you check the timing (put the camshaft on its mark, the crankshaft should be at TDC (mark TD on the crankshaft). A couple of degrees off is not so bad, but not more than 5º.

There are two bleed screws on this engine: one at the top of the fuel filter, one at the pump itself. After bleeding, you should hear a sizzling noise when you operate the hand pump (that is the fuel return line valve at the back of the pump opening).

It could also be that the injectors are stuck or rusted. That way no fuel will be injected.