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  #1  
Old 01-13-2016, 05:09 PM
Shadetree
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Back in SC upstate
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Vacuum reads 11 at the brake booster on...

a new Mityvac.

BTW, the carrier bearing, housing and flex disk job works well. The shifter is vibrating just enough to let you know the engine is running. Almost no vibration at all.

I've started on the vacuum system and by removing the main line from the brake booster and plugging the two tees on the main line.

Shall I buy a new pump?

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  #2  
Old 01-13-2016, 05:21 PM
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I think it is supposed to read about 20. That's what my 81 300SD reads.
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  #3  
Old 01-13-2016, 05:23 PM
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seems low.

you may want to inspect the check valve at the top of the pump. easy access. I think its 18mm or 19.

I just bought a new one at PP for $75, but I'm sure you can find used for cheap. If that's your problem, PM me and i'll send you a spare.

another alternative is to rebuild your pump. there are two kits. unfortunately one of the kits is NLA, and the other is expensive.

I found both on ebay, reasonably priced. and the rebuild was significantly less than buying a new pump.

you may also want to find a nice used pump.
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  #4  
Old 01-14-2016, 03:14 PM
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Try breaking the fitting upstream and measure as close to the pump as you can. No sense fooling w/ the pump if the low reading is from a tubing leak. If you see the needle on the gage pulsing with the engine (1/2 rpm), the outlet check valve on the pump is probably bad or gunked (easy to clean) and they don't come w/ a new pump. The "check-valves & seals" rebuild kit for your 1-tube pump cost ~$110. A new pump cost ~$350. If you do rebuild, change the roller's bearings if they might be bad (posts here w/ PN's).
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  #5  
Old 01-14-2016, 06:16 PM
Shadetree
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
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Check valve.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom View Post
Try breaking the fitting upstream and measure as close to the pump as you can. No sense fooling w/ the pump if the low reading is from a tubing leak. If you see the needle on the gage pulsing with the engine (1/2 rpm), the outlet check valve on the pump is probably bad or gunked (easy to clean) and they don't come w/ a new pump. The "check-valves & seals" rebuild kit for your 1-tube pump cost ~$110. A new pump cost ~$350. If you do rebuild, change the roller's bearings if they might be bad (posts here w/ PN's).
There is a junction at the end of the hard pipe/tube but there is no check valve on this car. It's a 1984 300SD and if I'm reading the diagram correctly it shows no check valve for this model.

Perhaps someone took it off and I'm reading the diagram wrong or I am selecting the wrong diagram? PP shows no check valve for this year and model.

I'm concerned about this and I'm open for suggestions.
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  #6  
Old 01-14-2016, 06:51 PM
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is this your pump?
Vacuum Pump 0002301365 - Genuine Mercedes-Benz - Genuine Mercedes-Benz - 000-230-13-65-M22 | Pelican Parts
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  #7  
Old 01-15-2016, 07:00 AM
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I would have left the line connected and measured at the "T"s, one at a time with the other blocked off.

This helps my make sure there isn't any leaks at the connection point.

Should be around 22 inHg.

Here's a video I did a few years ago:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMAl9GXU1KY

That's the SD, the orifices are between the fake fire wall and the real fire wall.
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  #8  
Old 01-15-2016, 09:33 AM
Shadetree
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toomany MBZ View Post
I would have left the line connected and measured at the "T"s, one at a time with the other blocked off.

This helps my make sure there isn't any leaks at the connection point.

Should be around 22 inHg.

Here's a video I did a few years ago:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMAl9GXU1KY

That's the SD, the orifices are between the fake fire wall and the real fire wall.
That's where I started with the examination and found 7-10 on the scale. Had I found a higher value (20-22) I would have headed in the other direction. Since the indicator shows low values at that point I headed toward the pump to find the problem. Obviously, that direction had issues.

I actually took the main line off the brake booster and plugged that end, removed the two Tees between that and the pump and hooked the gauge up there to check the vacuum source.

I'm asking if this particular auto was build without a check valve in the main vacuum line.
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  #9  
Old 01-15-2016, 09:39 AM
Shadetree
 
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Yes, according to the parts folks, but I have no idea what is on the car.

Honestly, it's had vacuum problems since I got it several years ago. I changed the vacuum pods when I changed the interior four years ago. I'm guessing all the years of hard shifting is what ripped the center/carrier bearing housing apart.

Will it be possible to locate the part number on that pump while it's on the engine?
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  #10  
Old 01-15-2016, 09:48 AM
Shadetree
 
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Sorry, Bill

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom View Post
Try breaking the fitting upstream and measure as close to the pump as you can. No sense fooling w/ the pump if the low reading is from a tubing leak. If you see the needle on the gage pulsing with the engine (1/2 rpm), the outlet check valve on the pump is probably bad or gunked (easy to clean) and they don't come w/ a new pump. The "check-valves & seals" rebuild kit for your 1-tube pump cost ~$110. A new pump cost ~$350. If you do rebuild, change the roller's bearings if they might be bad (posts here w/ PN's).
I'm a little emotional about this. I actually read your post and apologize for not catching your meaning before. I see now that you were telling me the check valve is mounded at the pump and not in the line.

It's raining here in Greenville, SC this morning and I'm without cover so I'll remove and examine that valve when it clears a little.

Thank you, sir.
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  #11  
Old 01-15-2016, 10:19 AM
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Take a picture when you get a chance
But it seems that you "should" have the single port pierburg pump with check valve
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  #12  
Old 01-15-2016, 12:03 PM
Shadetree
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jabstick420 View Post
Take a picture when you get a chance
But it seems that you "should" have the single port pierburg pump with check valve
I see that you also pointed out the check valve is at the pump. I apologize to you for not catching that before.

Is this valve no more than a housing with a metal ball within which allows air to flow one direction? If it is wouldn't a gallon vat of carb cleaner be sufficient to clean it out? It's over the counter stuff which does no harm to aluminum so I'm guessing it wouldn't hurt brass or other soft metals.
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  #13  
Old 01-15-2016, 12:46 PM
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Some of those are one piece units, below is one that can be opened up.
Attached Thumbnails
Vacuum reads 11 at the brake booster on...-screen-shot-2016-01-15-12.54.51-pm.jpg   Vacuum reads 11 at the brake booster on...-screen-shot-2016-01-15-12.54.59-pm.jpg   Vacuum reads 11 at the brake booster on...-screen-shot-2016-01-15-12.56.35-pm.jpg   Vacuum reads 11 at the brake booster on...-screen-shot-2016-01-15-12.57.06-pm.jpg  
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  #14  
Old 01-15-2016, 01:09 PM
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I thought you had a vacuum problem, no?
It looks like you put up a pic of the IP
Maybe I'm missing something
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  #15  
Old 01-15-2016, 01:15 PM
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Which fitting are you checking from, between the firewalls?

There are two branches off of the main line with one having a metered orifice. If you inspect it closely, it will have a "dot".

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