Hi. Guys. Replaced crush washers on fuel lines . When I removed lines from IP fuel came out.I cracked open 1 injector line no fuel coming out.Is there a shut off valve that's gone bad?I ran down two batteries no start. Fuel is flowing to the IP but not going to the injectors. I'm at a lose. Any suggestions ? Thanks Greg

Ok you mean you replaced the crush washers under the injectors?

Did you work the primer pump until you heard the pressure relief valve on the IP "squeeking?"

If yes, then loosen the connection for the first injector (the metal line at the injector) and pump the primer pump and tell us what happens. You should get fuel squirting out.

Don't try starting it again until you have done this.

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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

Hi no I mean the washer that go to the lines from the fuel housing to the IP. Car willing not start .is there any way to get the air out of the IP without burning my starter up? I made a small tank in front to take out the fuel tank . I thought the tank was the problem . I think I solved the air problem but now I can't start the dam car! Thank Greg

What? the primer pump as I understand it "is" how you get the air out of the IP without burning up the starter. Is your fuel tank in or out of the car?

- Peter.

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1984 123 200
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1972 Cadillac Sedan DeVille
1971 108 280S

Hi i disconnected the fuel tank and made a small tank up front to get it started not working I'm not getting any fuel through the IP to the injectors. It shouldn't take this long to get it started. Im lost. Thanks Greg

If you know the difference between an MW and M Fuel Injection Pump can you tell us which one you have?

See what manny said in post #5
82 300sd. Injection pump

Take a close look at the pic and tell us if yours looks like it.

Also the 13mm Nuts on top of the MW Fuel Injection Pump should not have been loosed or infact touched.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Greg - Slow down hoss, you are not making sense here.

There are a bunch of us trying hard to help you here but we have no idea what you are talking about. Take a deep breath and calmly explain what you mean by:

"the washer that go to the lines from the fuel housing to the IP"

If you could attach a picture it would really help.

Primer Pump

See the attachment I posted in post #7, that explains how to vent the fuel system.

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83 SD

84 CD

Not to single the OP out for that but every once in a while we get someone on the forum that so action oriented that they don't take the time to do the homework.

That often leads to simply replacing parts on a lot of speculation and hoping that it works.

The issue is that things on vehicles often operate as a system of items and several items in the system have to be checked in the proper manner for some hope in determining what is wrong.

That being said I have also gotten into a rush and done the same thing. But Just as often the situation brings you to a hault and forces you to take more time and a better direction on the job.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

ok, here's what I would do.

disconnect the glow plug controller. un plug the large harness from the relay.

then remove the hard lines from the IP, and the injectors.

then remove the glow plugs. while they are out, test them with pliers and some test leads, to verify they heat at the tip, and not the body of the plug... then set them aside, until you have fuel oozing from the IP delivery valves.

with everything open, after the battery has been FULLY charged. start cranking the motor. it'll spin VERY fast with the glow plugs out. and it'll sound like a pipe organ...

keep an eye on the IP valves as you are cranking the motor. fuel should start oozing or spraying out of them from the rear first. once ALL DV's are oozing fuel only, the IP is full, and you are safe to reinstall the tested glow plugs, and lines. tighten the lines at the IP, but leave them loose at the injectors. crank some more until all the air is purged from the lines. tighten them as they get bubble free. the motor may start once the second or third line is tightened, or it may not. once they are all bubble free, and tight, you can reattach the glow plug harness to the relay, and give it a glow, and see if it will start.

don't spin the motor over long with the plugs disabled. 30 seconds at a time ONLY, with a good 20 minute wait with the battery charger attached to recharge the battery, and give the starter time to dissipate the heat.

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Does anyone have the slightest clue as to which "crush washers" the OP replaced? Any chance he replaced the DV crush washers without removing the old ones first? Or used the wrong replacements... ? There are probably more ways this could have gone wrong than most of us are imagining right now. The ball is in the OP's court at this point.

Sounds to me like the washers on the plastic lines between the big filter and IP.

Sixto
83 300SD