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#16
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'84 190D 2.2 5MT (Red/Palomino) Current car. Love it! '85 190D 2.2 Auto *Cali* (Blue/Blue) *sold* http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/302601.png http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/sideview.png |
#17
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Several years ago when I replaced the old engine with the new one, I decided
to run an electric fan. I first used a Zirgo, (piece of junk, short lived) and finally went with a 16" Spal fan. It`s a puller fan. I used this relay that comes on at 100C. Auxiliary Fan Switch Part #: 006-545-14-24 I also wired in a MB rocker switch from a W201 or W124. The one that has the red dot and 3 circular arrows. I thought the red dot was a light, but doesn`t seem to come on. With my daily running around on a hot day, it never comes on. Seems to be plenty of air flow even in city driving. How ever let it sit a while idling, it will kick on. Shut the eng off, and it will run till it brings the temp down. I also wired in the orange Relay MSFrank posted. There is also a green Relay with a separate fuse. I have found them in the yards in the trunk of later model MB`s. I have them wired in under the black box on the drivers side inner fender. I removed the plug and as much of the wire (in PNP) and wired this in under the box. then it all looks factory. One is 30 amp and the other 40 amp. This question has been brought many times in the past. There has been much gnashing of teeth, wringing of hands and sweaty arm pits condemning the use of anything but what MB installed from the factory. It is what it is, and wonder how many of these people still actually own one of these cars today? Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#18
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But it all comes down to low ambient air temperatures and a block free cooling system.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#19
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You sure about that? He was talking about the one in the dryer.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#20
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It helps if you have a cast iron block and head, it can take excursions into the upper end of the temperature range better than aluminum head engines. I would be much more careful with an aluminum head, especially during the test phase.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#21
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On my W210 I have pulled out the aux fans and replaced them with aftermarket fans that are thermostatically controlled (can also vary when they cut in). I am still running the OEM viscous fan at the moment, tempted to remove that fan and run a much larger fan on the back of the radiator as per more modern cars.
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UK spec Mercedes W210 E300 Turbodiesel wagon - OM606.962 with 722.6 transmission - rust free! |
#22
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This system isn't a rational solution for engine cooling. The only possible excuse is that it's intended to save a few horsepower so that the numbers look better. If you're trying to market a 79 HP slug to a luxury market, goosing it to 81 HP has advertising value. |
#23
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The 2-mode electric plus clutch fan on the 603/602/M103/M104 works well.
With the A/C on (in temperatures where you use A/C), the low-speed fans cycle often at low speeds / in traffic. The clutch fan also cycles on hot days, gently blowing hot A/C air over the radiator in stop-and-go traffic really doesn't give much engine cooling and the clutch fan moves massive amounts of air. I rarely get the high-speed electric fans on, but have had them run. These cars are designed to be used in harsh conditions, from arctic cold to desert heat. They are tested in all conditions by Mercedes, extensively. I did instrumented testing in the 124 300TD when it was launched, we were doing accelerometer-based vibration mapping in the car, hot day and A/C on, full-throttle to max. speed and back again, ... I only blew one heater hose (was determined to be defective). Other than the defective hose (repaired and testing completed) the car performed flawlessly. It is possible to replace the whole system with a proper electric fan system, but you will need to duplicate the amount of air that the current system can move to be able to run without concerns. This is a lot of air, which means a lot of electric current, much of it at idle when the alternator cannot put out its rated max amps, so keep that in your design (potentially a large alternator than your stock 45a-65a). One could argue that the original system was designed for hard use in desert heat and is overkill for someone who might run their A/C in the northern states, which is somewhat true. The other side of that argument is that this design was with a new radiator (inside and out), no buildup on any heat-transfer surfaces (in block, head, etc.), and no restrictions to flow. I don't care how many citric-flushes you've given your old beats, there is some change from new in there. If you do want to go to a electric only system, one thing I suggest is to use a heat-transfer agent (I prefer RedLine diesel water-wetter) to help the engine transfer heat to the radiator surfaces. Also, unless you live in very cold temps, use high-quality HOAT coolant, at the minimum concentration for your environment (within M-B specs) with distilled water, water is much better at transferring heat than anti-freeze. It will also make your heater hotter, one caveat though being that in my experience, the heated windshield-washer tank will frequently boil dry using water-wetter in the summer.
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff Last edited by babymog; 01-17-2016 at 09:49 AM. |
#24
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#25
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I have never owned a 617. However, the 60x cars have a resistor for low speed, straight 12v for high speed, 2-wire motors.
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#26
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Hmmm... this is a good point. I'm not 100% sure the 123 has a resister for low speed operation. I'll have to look at the wiring.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#27
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Haven't they all got that weird Frankenstein-like box of scary looking wires for this? Even my W201 (no ac but has a fan!) has this...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#28
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Frankenstein box is for the cabin blower.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#29
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1995 E300 Diesel ~300k |
#30
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I understand that the electric rad fan in my W123's is actuated by the AC system only. The temperature switch on the filter/drier turns it's relay on above some temperature (40 C?, forgot exactly, I tested some spares and wrote value on them). It definitely helps since when I had a bad temp switch the AC barely worked at idle on a 110 F day (sat 2 hr in jam). If working, the filter/drier should not be too hot to comfortably touch. The relay is under the plastic box on the driver's inner fender (another relay for AC clutch too unless an 85 CA). Rollguy has a post rigging the fan to always come on when the AC clutch engages, but even at highway speeds where it isn't needed.
The fan would surely help engine cooling if you could actuate it to also come on with radiator temperature, though it is a bit wimpy for that world. Hot-rodders who sometimes must live w/ an electric-only rad fan like the 2-spd Ford fan used in Taurus etc. Once driving 30 mph, you don't need a fan.
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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's 1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport 1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans |
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