Cardone Axle sizes
 

I know there are a bunch of posts already on axles and I've just read through a bunch of them, but I didn't see the answer to this question.

On Cardone's site, there are 2 different size axles listed for my 1985 300D, any idea why? I may end up going with CVJ axles instead, but just want to know if I need to worry about getting the right size.

Also, I've seen several references to the washers that need replaced, but no real advice on where to get them. Any idea if either Cardone or CVJ axles come with these and where to get them if not? I've seen reference to "Phil" who can get them, but not sure who that is or how to get a hold of him.

Thanks in advance

I believe that 'Phil' refers to Phil Reinhardt (1951-2012), now deceased parts man at Peach Parts. See one of the Stickys above the main thread titles.

Sorry do not have any answers for the other questions about the Cardones, or the washers for the outer ends of the axles.

When I ordered my CVJ rebuilds, I asked them to send me an assortment of washers. And they did.

For less than $10, I got replacement bolts & washers from my local dealer parts counter. The longer axles are for W116 "S" Class cars. When I did mine, our local NAPA dealer's computer showed the longer ones not available and only 2 Cardone rebuilt axles available in the whole country which didn't sound too good for warranty, so I ended up getting new Homokinetic type from Amazon, SurTrak by TrakMotive was the brand. the 1 review showing is by me. So far, no problems. Don

The length of the Mercedes Axels are measured with the Axles off of the Car and the Joints compressed fully inwards then the length is measured.

When I got Cardone rebuilt axles back in 2007 they cam with a new Bolt, Washer and I beleve a tube spacer and that is the parts that go through the Hub to hold the Hub end of the Axle in.

On the Cardon Axles I suppose I could have exchanged them on the life time warranty but I chose not to. Partly because I bought them fro Chief's Auto Parts wich was sold to Oreilly's Auto Parts and paper work dissapears in my house.

When you remover your Axle you should make sure that the Spacers (if there is any) stay on with the Differential.

If when you get the replacement axles and stick them in the Differential the original spacers (if there was any) do not produce the proper fit then you need to get a different thickness of Spacer. Ask Stratch how to determine what thickness you need.

I have had Cardon rebuilt Axles on My Car since 2007. No issues except that the stock style Axle Boots started to crack after 5 years of low milage use. When I removed the old Boots there was nothing on the Boot except some numbers that did not match any specific part number or helped me determine where the Boots were made.

Anyway I replaced the Boots with Dorman Universal Boots and that was a few years ago with no other issues.

You will have to ask someone how long their CVJ Axel Boots have held up.

Thanks for the replies. How many years and miles have you put on the Surtrak axles Ollo?

Diesel911, you're the third person I've heard who's Cardone boots wore out in 4-5 years, so it must be pretty common. How difficult was it to reboot with the doorman boots? Did you have to remove the axles again, or were you able to do it while on the car?

Carpenterman, have you had any issues with your CVJ boots?

Based on Ollo's response, I'm assuming I should order the shorter axles as I would like to have them ordered before taking my car apart.

Based on what I've read here, I would like to go with CVJ but they're quite a bit more expensive than Cardone, especially since I don't have original axles on my car now to offer as a core. All 4 of my boots are cracked, but only the right side is making noise, so I'm tempted to replace just the right and try to just reboot the left.

Who is Scratch and how do I get a hold of him? anyone know of a post that outlines how to determine what spacers are needed and where you get them if a different size is needed?

That was supposed to be Stretch

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/members/stretch.html

I would say the axles need to come off. Especially if you use CV grease as I did.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/317950-cv-boot-installation-problems-dorman-pneumatic-cone-type-boot-installation.html

There is a lot of threads on re-booting axles.
Most people use the Astoria Flexx Boots. I decided on the Dorman Boots as it is not un-common to rip a boot in that learning curve on installing them. The Dormans were cheaper especially since I bought a Kit.

The type of clamps that come with the Dorman Boots are cheap and the Tool for the was also cheap.

But, there is not enough CV Joint Grease in the little grease packets that come with the Dorman Boots. You can get a tube of it at the local Auto Zone.

Where's John woth his OR rebooted axles?

Thanks, looks like avoiding rebooting is a good way to go if possible. Now to find out how long the CVJ boots last, as I'd really like to make this a one time job if I can afford it

I have about 4,000 miles on my SurTrak's that's an estimate, as my odometer only works below 45* F or so. Others have also posted no problems, & the most miles I have seen on one of the forums was 20,000 miles. These axles haven't been available for very long. I found some good reviews on them & some local 4 wheelers use them.

Despite their low price, they look good, and have heavy neoprene boots. They were the shorter size. This car isn't driven much and I haven't much $$ into it so far, would like to keep it that way. If I drove it more, I would probably have gone with CVJ of Denver. I did save the original axles, so can still do that if these give me trouble. Don

Thanks for the info Ollo, that's a tempting idea to go with them. Do you have a part number? they only have the 300CD and 300TD listed on their website, but I suppose it would be the same for my 300D? The part number I found for that is
MB-8003

I only have 10k and about a year on the CVJ axles, so it's too early to tell how they are holding up.

I will say that I was very pleased with the fit and finish. The boots and clamps were very robust.

Thanks, I found another thread where someone claimed to have driven 250-300k on a pair in 5 years so that's good. If only they weren't so expensive

MB-8003 was the part number on the ones I put in my 240D. They came with bolts and clips but the bolts were much shorter than the originals and wouldn't have fit. The clips were also thinner than the Mercedes originals and lacked the little "ear" sticking out that helps in removal and installation.

It's hard to explain, but the groove that the clips fit in was a snug fit for the MB clips and a very loose, poor fit for the clips they supplied. When I fit the axles with the original spacers in place, the grooves didn't extend into the differential case far enough to allow use of the original clips. I didn't use the Asian clips that would fit. Maybe they would have worked, but I didn't feel good about it. Without the spacers, the axles fit perfect and the MB clips fit just as they had on the old axles. Getting the clips out & back in was the most difficult part for me, esp. on passenger side.

I used a homemade hooked tool found in one of my dad's boxes to get them out and a small, needle nosed, vise grips to put them back in far enough to tap home.

With the Mercedes clips in place, I couldn't get any movement in, or out and they are still tight with no movement, so didn't loosen up with use.

I used an ABS plumbing cap to help tap in the new Corteco seals. Took an old seal in to Home Depot and looked till I found something that was the right size.

My car looks and drives pretty good now, but is high mileage. I only paid $1,000 for it plus a bit over $800 in parts and tires since I got it, so I try to keep costs down when possible. Its not an S class, but I like to drive it, and the rate of finding things needing attention has slowed way down compared to the first months. If these axles give problems after a few years, I will send the old ones to CVJ, may do it anyway. (you can just make out the part # on the new axle, it's on the left edge of the shaft. Don