<sigh> Another "240D Won't Start Thread"

[Redpeople]

Originally Posted by Diesel911

I think it is more common to loosen all of the Fuel Injection Line Nuts at the Injectors and crank till you get Fuel out of all of them.

* * *

Since apparently no one has been adjusting the Valves since you owned it how many miles do you think it has on it since the last valve adjustment or since you have owned it?

Thanks for that information. That is how I was doing the bleeding. I'll try it one more time using that method, because I did disconnect one of the lines when I changed the glow plugs a few days ago.

I have no idea when the last valve adjustment was. I'm going to go ahead and do that tonight. I've only put a couple thousand miles on it in the three months I've owned it. I doubt the PO put more than a couple thousand miles on it in the last 10 years. (odometer doesn't work so no telling) I wouldn't be surprised if he never had the valves adjusted in the 30 years he owned it. Although he seemed to believe he maintained it well because he washed it, waxed it and kept it garaged, there were a lot of "deferred maintenance" items I had to do when I got it. (Brake MC, booster, tires, shocks, sway bar links.) I finally had it driving great; now I just need to get it running again!

[Alec300SD]

Originally Posted by Redpeople

Thanks for that information. That is how I was doing the bleeding. I'll try it one more time using that method, because I did disconnect one of the lines when I changed the glow plugs a few days ago.

Disconnect the power to your glow plugs when you are cranking while you try to bleed the injectors will all the lines cracked at the injectors themselves.

This may prevent your battery from discharging too much. You may need to recharge the battery a couple of times. Rest a few minutes between each 30-45 second cranking episode to let the starter cool down.

Tighten each injector line when fuel begins to dribble out. The # 4 injector will come online first, then # 3, #2 and finally #1.

When I checked compression (while the injectors were out for replacement with rebuilt injectors from greazzer) I lost prime on the IP. It took two and a half days and multiple battery recharges to to get my 83 300SD running again.

Your 240D ran before, it will run again.

[Redpeople]

Thanks, Alec. I had planned to take out the inline fuse so the plugs wouldn't be powered.

Don't think it will take too much cranking, because when I tried it before I pretty much had fuel coming out right away. I don't know that air in the lines was a problem. Just trying to cover all my bases.

[Redpeople]

OK, here's another angle that I hadn't thought of. When I was first trying to figure out the glow plug problem and find the inline fuse, I popped the cover off the plug right above the fuse holder that goes into the dash. (See photo) Anyway, when I popped the cover off, I broke a piece off the bakelite plug itself, so the cover doesn't snap on tightly any more and I had just left it off.

When I was working on it today, I discovered that the glow plug light wasn't lighting and the plugs weren't glowing. I then noticed that the some of the pins in the aforementioned plug were loose. I pushed them in and the glow plugs started working again.

So my question is this: Is there anything in this plug or wiring harness that has to do with the kill function on the engine and is it possible that is keeping my engine from starting? Related question, how exactly does the "ignition" switch work to kill the engine. I understand how gas ignition engines work, but not these diesels.

[Mölyapina]

Thread continues here:

New Thread -- 240D Still Not Running

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by Redpeople

Thanks for that information. That is how I was doing the bleeding. I'll try it one more time using that method, because I did disconnect one of the lines when I changed the glow plugs a few days ago.

I have no idea when the last valve adjustment was. I'm going to go ahead and do that tonight. I've only put a couple thousand miles on it in the three months I've owned it. I doubt the PO put more than a couple thousand miles on it in the last 10 years. (odometer doesn't work so no telling) I wouldn't be surprised if he never had the valves adjusted in the 30 years he owned it. Although he seemed to believe he maintained it well because he washed it, waxed it and kept it garaged, there were a lot of "deferred maintenance" items I had to do when I got it. (Brake MC, booster, tires, shocks, sway bar links.) I finally had it driving great; now I just need to get it running again!

Actually from what I have read once out of warranty people seem not to have the valves adjusted unless there is some issue.

After the Car is sold to someone else they often don't know the Valves need adjusting (assuming the Vlave Lifter are hydraulic ones) or cannot adjust them themselves but won't pay to have it done.

So someone might maintain what they know how to maintain but not do the Valve Adjustment.

[Redpeople]

I adjusted the valves over the weekend. It was an enjoyable exercise, that would have been more enjoyable had it actually resulted in the car starting. Still no luck. FWIW, when I did the valve adjustment, the exhaust valves all seemed fine, while the intakes were all too tight (clearance too small) and needed a bit of adjustment.

Next step (probably should have done this earlier) is to change the fuel filters. I THINK my filters are OK because I do seem to be getting fuel to the injectors, but it can't hurt. Otherwise, I'm at a loss of where to go from here.

[Mike D]

Back at the beginning of this thread (post #3) you were asked regarding compression readings. Did you ever do a compression test? Quit pissing about with "valve adjustments", "faster starters","upgrading glow plugs" and all the other advice and do the test.