Howdy folks,

getting ready for the front crank seal replacement.

can you guys recommend a puller that will get the job done smoothly.? I've seen a DIY with a 3-jaw, and another that used a screw in type.

any recommendations?

for the job I have ordered:
- new seal
- new spacer
- new bolts
- new cupped washer

please feel free to give any general advice on this procedure and possible pitfalls.

this is my first attempt at this. I am planning to remove radiator for this.

thanks,

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1983 300CD Turbodiesel

I just used my 3-jaw without a problem. With the rad out I'd think it should go just fine for you - but I'm not used to working in an M-B engine bay!

Dan

would this work?

Robot Check

Not sure what size/pitch metric screws I need for this job...

any ideas?

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1983 300CD Turbodiesel

If the area that the seal rides on is deeply grooved you may need a SKF Spedie Sleeve or Timken Redi-Sleeve to slide over the grooved area. National also makes them as well as Victor but not sure if they have Mercedes.

Note that prices vary widely on those items.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

If you mean the spacer ring, I ordered a new one from the dealer. Going to replace both seal and ring... Unless you mean something else?

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1983 300CD Turbodiesel

Have done it several times. I recall using the 3 bolt type in the post 3 link, but in a cheaper package, maybe Northern Hydraulics 20 years ago. But, I also have a sturdy 2-bolt puller I might have used once.

A few hints:

After removing the pulleys, pry the thin outer damper off. It is just pressed over the thick inner damper. Jam a thick chisel between main damper and block to keep the crank from rotating backwards as you loosen the big bolt.

Don't push on the crank directly since that could mess up the threads or swage the hole outward (I messed up a Chrysler engine once thus). Push on a bolt or rod in the hole. You can use the crank bolt if you remove the 3 washers. First mark the damper and crank so you put it back correctly clocked. Some people have forced the damper on and buggered up their crank end, which means "replacement engine needed".

Buy 2 new crank pins (PeachParts). They are supposed to be replaced. They are not exactly 180 deg apart, so if they don't align with the crank notches, you don't have the damper clocked correctly. Even with the radiator out, the AC condenser blocks your view, so you need a mirror to view, and isn't easy.

The seal lip rides on a removable sleeve. You need to work the lip over the sleeve. If not it will be pinched and torn when you put on the damper. A wiki shows using a cut yogurt cup as as an "installer tool". I just used a blunt screwdriver to work up the lip. You might also slide the sleeve out and use it as an installation tool. I coated the inside of the sleeve w/ gasket sealant, since otherwise it appears to be just a metal-metal interface that could leak oil past the crank seal. But, maybe that was intended since most engines look real gooky around the crank after 10 years. The seal is not axisymmetric and needs to be clocked a certain way so the half-circle tab aligns with the block-oil pan interface. Mark the top of the seal and the corresponding location on the block with a Sharpie, so you get it right when you tap it in. This is a good time to thoroughly clean the front of the engine and vacuum pump. I sprayed w/ clear engine paint afterwards. But do it quick. My damper was too clean and got a few rust spots on the angle marks before I got around to painting.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

As usual, Bill gives great info!

I had a heck of a time getting mine back on and clocked correctly. I've promised myself that if I did this again I'd take the damper to a machine shop and have the interference fit turned out of it for about 1/8" to 1/4" so you could feel the pins align with the damper. We're talking about maybe 0.002" or so - just enough so you could feel them engage. I think mine is clocked OK as the timing marks make sense but it was a stinker and that was with the engine out. I'd sure consider my suggested mod if I was doing another one.

Dan

Post =bookmark.

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1998 VW Cabrio
2001 Audi SomeRoad A/T (no air suspension)
2003 Audi DeadRoad M/T (no vroom, for later)
2002 Audi NoRoad A/T (nothing under the hood, being rebuilt)