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  #1  
Old 02-14-2016, 05:09 PM
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1987 W124 adoption/rehabilitation

Hey Gang,

I just happened to find myself yet another orphan, and I'm curious about folks' thoughts.

I picked up an '87 w124, with the #17 casting (head looks very clean as well!), with zero blow-by, even under load. The car is in decent shape with no rust and good paint. Good interior, little dirty, but no cracks and wood in good shape. Only one serious dent in the rear in the 2" below the trunk, but above the bumper. The only deal is that the transmission is slipping big-time.

The previous owner swapped the fluid and filter, but to no avail.

What say you folks? (I will post photos when I get a chance to take a few.)

Should I:

1. Make some cheap/inexpensive magical fix that I haven't seen before (still searching), and be smiling...

2. Swap in an auto tranny (how difficult from 1-10?), and play with the motor.

3. Swap in 6-speed from a c230... (any folks have final numbers ($$$) on their swaps, as far as linkages/pedals/flywheels and all of the bits?)

4. Pull motor, put in a Landcruiser, pass on nice shell/interior for a song.

5. Better Idea, that I haven't though of yet...or just your $0.02


What say Ye? (And you needn't be shy! )

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  #2  
Old 02-14-2016, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cadin View Post

Should I:

1. Make some cheap/inexpensive magical fix that I haven't seen before (still searching), and be smiling...

2. Swap in an auto tranny (how difficult from 1-10?), and play with the motor.

3. Swap in 6-speed from a c230... (any folks have final numbers ($$$) on their swaps, as far as linkages/pedals/flywheels and all of the bits?)

4. Pull motor, put in a Landcruiser, pass on nice shell/interior for a song.

5. Better Idea, that I haven't though of yet...or just your $0.02

1. Unicorns and rainbows....

2. Simple, just make sure you get a KNOWN good one not a THOUGHT good one. Diesels had differences from gas trans. Make sure you get one with a first gear start.

3. Pipe Dream.

4. If you already have a Landcruiser, and want to make it a diesel, this would be better than one more car you don't need.

5. Part out?

Jim
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  #3  
Old 02-14-2016, 05:59 PM
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#4, probably the most expensive option. I have a spare 603 that I've wanted to put in something, but the adapters, mounts, plumbing, etc. to make it work in a 4X4 really add up. At least the FJ80 has a proper hole and springs for an I-6 engine.
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Old 02-14-2016, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimFreeh View Post
1. Unicorns and rainbows....

2. Simple, just make sure you get a KNOWN good one not a THOUGHT good one. Diesels had differences from gas trans. Make sure you get one with a first gear start.

3. Pipe Dream.

4. If you already have a Landcruiser, and want to make it a diesel, this would be better than one more car you don't need.

5. Part out?

Jim
1. Right on.

2. Excellent, there are a few good Mercedes only places in Portland that are honest, so that seems viable. Is there a number code to ID the first gear start unit?

3. Roger that. Is this because the are incompatible, or the rarity of the "bits"?

4. I have a Om617 in it currently, and so the driveline is already centered, 5-speed transmission and all that, only the adapters seem difficult to source. I have only seen adapters for Chev 700r autos for the 603's. Are there other options?

5. Are these parts in high enough demand that it makes sense to dismantle and part? Or just let the rolling car (sans-engine) go for a reasonable price? Some might consider it a shame to separate such a nice rust-free chassis from it's friends. They crush a lot of perfect shells here in the land of no-rust.


Thank you for the candid feedback!
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  #5  
Old 02-14-2016, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babymog View Post
#4, probably the most expensive option. I have a spare 603 that I've wanted to put in something, but the adapters, mounts, plumbing, etc. to make it work in a 4X4 really add up. At least the FJ80 has a proper hole and springs for an I-6 engine.

The FJ80's also have a wonderful build quality, and are famously solid. My only concern is fitting the Om603 over the solid axle without lifting the FJ80 to the moon! The GM kits are ~1k; and I have to idea what the machine shop would want to build an adapter from an mdf template...

Thanks for the input!
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  #6  
Old 02-14-2016, 06:43 PM
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Under what conditions does it slip? There may be a simple fix, depending on what it is.
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  #7  
Old 02-14-2016, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mxfrank View Post
Under what conditions does it slip? There may be a simple fix, depending on what it is.
I don't know all of the details, and had it towed to the house. I'll gather some more data.
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Old 02-15-2016, 10:11 AM
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Will there be a problem with fitting the engine (starter on driver's side vs 61x on passenger side) on that transmission?
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Old 02-15-2016, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babymog View Post
Will there be a problem with fitting the engine (starter on driver's side vs 61x on passenger side) on that transmission?
I think with an adapter plate that I could position the starter either way on the flywheel. In my current set-up with the passenger side starter, it was a little tricky to route the exhaust, etc.

I think it may be simplified to have it on the drivers side, but that is an excellent point-to-ponder.
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  #10  
Old 02-15-2016, 01:07 PM
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I personally like the 603 and think it's an excellent diesel retrofit engine, especially with a later head as I would not be as afraid of over-boosting it and adding power.

The car has some value as a good driver, depending on MILES, condition, colors, and options it could easily fetch $3,500 or more (in your area likely more). Maybe I'm off on that, ... haven't had a diesel W124 in close to 10years. There are many around, few in good condition, but still not a rare car and not as classic to many as the 123.

In parts, the head is valuable, maybe $1500 or more? Problem with selling these heads even complete with injectors and glowplugs (necessary for the #14 upgrade) is that there aren't enough #14 cars out there in good enough condition to justify the expense, it takes a while to find a buyer. Again might be worth more, especially if cleaned/checked/pressure-tested. The IP is worth $600 or more, the turbo if KKK ~150, if Garrett ~200, manifolds, lights and lenses, dash and wood, seats, body parts, brakes, switches and electrical, ... again all of these depend on miles and condition.

You could part it and make more than the $3,500 it is worth fixed and running, without messing with the transmission, but it's a gamble and a lot of work (dismantling, determining value, selling, packing and shipping, etc.).

The engine donor sounds like a great plan if you like doing that, and just sell the stuff that is the best value for the amount of time necessary to remove, scrap the rest (did that with a 350SDL). If you're going to do that however, I suggest looking around for an OM606 turbo, you start out with a little more power, and potential for much more (need to swap the IP to a non-electronic one, easy swap). Same adapter, nicest version of the 60X series IMO.
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  #11  
Old 02-15-2016, 01:31 PM
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Look for a 722.317 to remove questions of compatibility.

Sixto
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  #12  
Old 02-15-2016, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babymog View Post
I personally like the 603 and think it's an excellent diesel retrofit engine, especially with a later head as I would not be as afraid of over-boosting it and adding power.

The car has some value as a good driver, depending on MILES, condition, colors, and options it could easily fetch $3,500 or more (in your area likely more). Maybe I'm off on that, ... haven't had a diesel W124 in close to 10years. There are many around, few in good condition, but still not a rare car and not as classic to many as the 123.

In parts, the head is valuable, maybe $1500 or more? Problem with selling these heads even complete with injectors and glowplugs (necessary for the #14 upgrade) is that there aren't enough #14 cars out there in good enough condition to justify the expense, it takes a while to find a buyer. Again might be worth more, especially if cleaned/checked/pressure-tested. The IP is worth $600 or more, the turbo if KKK ~150, if Garrett ~200, manifolds, lights and lenses, dash and wood, seats, body parts, brakes, switches and electrical, ... again all of these depend on miles and condition.

You could part it and make more than the $3,500 it is worth fixed and running, without messing with the transmission, but it's a gamble and a lot of work (dismantling, determining value, selling, packing and shipping, etc.).

The engine donor sounds like a great plan if you like doing that, and just sell the stuff that is the best value for the amount of time necessary to remove, scrap the rest (did that with a 350SDL). If you're going to do that however, I suggest looking around for an OM606 turbo, you start out with a little more power, and potential for much more (need to swap the IP to a non-electronic one, easy swap). Same adapter, nicest version of the 60X series IMO.
Great comprehensive analysis, Thank you! I went to the pulling yard today, and was pleasantly surprised when I found out it was half-price day! They had an '87, but alas, no head/IP or radiator. I happened to find a bunch of OM617 stuff, but only got to get a few things. There was one light green body that was flawless with excellent paint.

I happened to find a OM617 radiator with oil cooler sitting beside a W123 that wasn't missing a rad... I am going to try to adapt it to work with the W124, by using the small lines and disconnecting the line below the motor on the W124, but only for testing purposes! I also happened to find a intercooler and oil cooler for a Volvo that I may adapt into the FJ80.

I'm very curious to see what the tranny does. I would like to find a simple short term solution to get the old girl on her feet whilst I finagle with the motor and learn about it's creaks and groans.

-Mxfrank you mentioned a simple fix, what were you thinking of? What symptoms should I look for beside obvious slipping?

-Sixto Thanks for the heads up!

Thank you all for your input!

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