Hello again!

So, my power steering job (87 300d) gong well. I removed the power steering box and inspected the rest of the system, and decided I need new tie rod ends and a drag link (boots were fine, but there was a lot, I mean a lot, of movement in the ball joints).

Anyhow, I made the mistake of over tightening the bolt that attaches the steering damped to the drag link (stupid mistake) and now the bolt spins freely without loosening or tightening. So I a, going to have to throw a steering damper into the job .

But now I need the bolt that attaches to the steering damper, but I don't know what bolt I need exactly. In fact, when working on the suspension, the fsm states to renew the bolts and a lot of tech articles (like here on pelican parts) stress the importance of renewing nuts and bolts, but do not tell you which ones you need.

So, the question is, when you need a bolt, how do you know which one you need, exactly? Tell me there is a list somewhere at I have not yet found! Same goes for nuts...

Take your old bolt and go to ace hardware and match it up with grade 8 bolts.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

The easiest and safest solution for nothing steering related in my opinion would be to just go to the dealer for it.

__________________
2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily
2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily
1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended
1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL
2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped
1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above
1992 BMW 525i -traded in
1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103
1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one
1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold

You can also try a junkyard if you can find your model, or check craiglist. You may be able to find someone parting one.

I take the nut or bolt to Ace Hardware and use their thread assortment to determine which one I need. Then I buy a nice quality piece. The MB hardware sucks... They're super soft.

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'84 190D 2.2 5MT (Red/Palomino) Current car. Love it!
'85 190D 2.2 Auto *Cali* (Blue/Blue) *sold*
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As a general rule, I never leave a junkyard without my pockets stuffed with relays, switches and fasteners.

Go to Harbor Freight and spend 10.00 on a metric SAE digital caliper and 2.00 on a metric thread pitch gauge.

Measure the diameter of the bolt in millimeters

Open the thread pitch gauge and match the teeth to the grooves on the bolt.

With RARE exceptions, most metric bolts are X mm diameter by 1.0mm or 1.25/1.50 mm for thread pitch, until you get to huge bolts.

This is the metric bolt equivalent of coarse or fine thread, like 1/4-20 and 1/4-28

Get a grade 8 bolt, which has five marks on the top.

Check the bolt length and you are all set.

Go to an ACE hardware and you are done and done.

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Strelnik
Invest in America: Buy a Congressman!

1950 170SD
1951 Citroen 11BN
1953 Citroen 11BNF limo
1953 220a project
1959 180D
1960 190D
1960 Borgward Isabella TS 2dr
1983 240D daily driver
1983 380SL
1990 350SDL daily driver alt
3 x Citroen DS21M, down from 5
3 x Citroen 2CV, down from 6

Our ACE has a great nut and bolt selection (including SS for many SAE and metric sizes) so I'll second the ACE Hardware suggestions. We also have Fastenal and Cole Fasteners (a local vendor) here in town so I can match almost anything locally. I take either a nut or a bolt (depending on what I have) with me and find something that threads together with it - that's your size (diameter and pitch). Then I can scour the bins and find something to do the job I need done.

Another source is Albany Fasteners online. Great selection and price and they have some weird stuff that others don't seem to have (like metric extra fine). If I need stuff like Rivnuts I order them from Albany for MUCH less than the local folks.

Dan

Nuts used for the suspension and driveshaft are locknuts. Make sure that you are not replacing them with regular nuts in these critical locations.

Pretty much every single bolt and nut has a part number. I usually look up the number and place a special order for factory hardware.

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-Evan


Benz Fleet:
1968 UNIMOG 404.114
1998 E300
2008 E63


Non-Benz Fleet:
1992 Aerostar
1993 MR2
2000 F250

Many of the standard sizes and pitch are found locally, as mentioned. However, beware of a few extra fine threads, usually found on downward facing threads, such as the upper ball-joints and pitman arm, you will need to obtain elsewhere.

IIRC, 12 x 1.0 comes to mind. www.belmetric. com is a good source for metric hardware and fittings.

Are the hardware prices reasonable? Made in Germany?

Classic Volkswagen has part numbers, but then tell you what size, unlike Mercedes.

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Current fleet:

1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery.

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home.

1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out.

1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health.

For body, interior, basic fasteners the junkyard or hardware store are fine. For suspension, steering, and many driveline bolts, go OE as you might be replacing a specialty bolt (such as a stretch-to-torque), and in most cases you will not be spending that much money on just fasteners.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

fastenall is good too.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Another source for replacements for stuff like torque-to-yield headbolts, etc. ARP is HUGE in automotive aftermarket fasteners and their stuff exceeds aircraft standards. You CAN replace torque-to-yield with extremely high quality fasteners and get completely away from that system - and it works.

How to order for an engine like the OM617 that doesn't have an ARP part number? (ARP has pre-made kits for most common engines.) Just call them with the dimensions. They'll need diameter, pitch, length from the bottom of the head to the end, and the head type (hex, reduced hex, socket, etc.) and they'll pick out a set for you. For most bolts you can choose from bolts or studs, which are great for cylinder heads if they'll fit the chassis. ARPs won't be cheap though probably less than Mercedes and they'll be the last set you'll ever buy.

One example - I did the head gaskets on a 3.8 V6 in our Ford Windstar - for the 4th. time. The 4th. time I went with ARP, torqued to ARP specs, and that was the end of the head gasket issues. As you can probably tell, I'm not a fan of torque-to-yield as they can stretch in use and allow the head to lift a tad which can be enough, especially on a Diesel. If I need to pull the head on a M-B (could happen) it'll go back on with ARPs.



Dan