You may end up having to remove the Electrical Connector that goes to the wires that connect the Glow Plugs wires; the largest connector.

Have someone crank the Engine while you carefully spray in Starting Fluid. By having someone else do the cranking you get the best control possible when using the starting fluid.

Unfotunately the fact that it ran good 2 years ago does not reflect what happens to the Diesel Fuel or any contaminants like Water that can be in the Diesel Fuel. It is possible for rust to develop inside of the Injectors and the little nozzle Pintels can get stuck in the upwards positon and the same with the Element Plungers (why you need to verify you are getting fuel to all of the Injectors).

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Did you unplug the big glow plug harness connector on the glow plug relay when you took the ohms measurements? If you didn't, you only need one good glow plug to get good readings on all 5. The reason for that is inside the glow plug relay, the 5 glow plug terminals are connected together.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

check the air filter.

is anything coming out of the exhaust pipe?

any sputtering at all?

__________________

any air bubbles in the line that leaves the IP on the engine side of the IP?

Perhaps a valve adjustment if none of the other suggestions work out.

__________________

Yes, I unplugged the big connector for the glow plug wires at the relay and measured resistance there. Also confirmed the relay was putting out 12+ volts to each of the 5 pins.

If there is something wrong with the injectors, how would I verify or fix that?

Since switching to the bottle of fresh fuel as my fuel tank, it is sputtering much more. For the first second or two of cranking, it feels like it's firing on at least 1 cylinder. And then I smell a little exhaust come out.

I'll check the filter, I guess a rat's nest could stop air from going in, haha!

If I need to take injectors out, what tools and new parts will I need to put some good used injectors in?

Do not be too hasty to replace the injectors. Keep charging up your battery, use a bypass and fresh diesel fuel in a jug, and keep trying to start it in the normal way. Likely it will happen.

Ditto.


Just to answer the question though, they would need to be pop tested. You would need a tester, a forum member with one, or a local shop to 'see' if they are working properly.

__________________

Are you certain the hard lines are full of fresh fuel? I had a difficult time bleeding on the side of the road after a clogged fuel filter change. The engine was warm and normally started easily. Regardless, it took much more bleeding than expected.

Use the diesel purge method of setting up your bottle of clean fuel and bleed the lines with that bottle. You might also pull a glow plug and confirm that it gets hot and that the wiring is good. Glow/fuel/compression should go boom.

__________________
85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

As far as diagnostics, is there a way I can zero in on what the problem is?

If I shoot in starting fluid while someone else cranks the starter, and it starts, that means the problem is fuel delivery to the cylinders, right?

And if it doesn't start with starting fluid, it most likely is the glow system (assuming the compression and timing are still the same as when I parked it)?

Why wouldn't they be? I have the bottle of fresh diesel fuel as my only fuel source now. Is that not enough?

So should I use diesel purge instead of diesel fuel? Where do I buy it?


Just want to thank everyone for the help so far.

__________________
'82 300TD
'77 6.9
'75 280S
'74 280
'87 Porsche 944 turbo

It takes a lot of cranking to purge the fuel delivery system. Even if the engine is running at idle it takes a while for all the fuel in the lift pump, injection pump fuel lines and injectors to be evacuated. He's trying to suggest that there still may be bad fuel in the system because the old fuel hasn't been pushed through yet.

It probably takes five minutes of the engine running at idle for all the fuel to pass from the primary filter to the cylinders so imagine how long the starter takes to do that job.

The quicker way to get this done is to bleed all the hard lines at the injectors. If you've hooked up a fresh supply of fuel and have a hot battery it shouldn't take long.

If fuel deliver is an issue then starter fluid will make the engine start but it won't make it run. If your engine starts then runs after using starter fluid then the glow system may be a problem.

__________________
84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

First I would turn on the glow plugs. Watching the interior light dim through the length of a cycle. If that proves out and engine was running well when you stopped using it.

Rings may have stuck just a little from sitting. If you used vegetable oil it is almost a certainty. They can stick even using diesel fuel though it seems.

I suspect a little quick start might get it running. Use it properly though. The best way perhaps would be to remove the air cleaner top. Have the car plugged in for an hour or so if practical. Start cranking and give the air intake with the cover off a small mist of quick start.

I would try this first with a warm block if possible and no glow plug cycle . Your really want to only introduce a mist of the quick start as it only takes a little many times. You just need something easier to ignite after a long sit on occasion.

Also remember these engines are diesels and want to turn over when cranking at a reasonable speed. Is your battery suspect at all?

I had this very same issue. It was fuel related. Just a lot of air in the lines. The diesel purge is a great place to start. It's the only fix in a bottle that I've ever seen work.

Now, I know I'll go on Hell's worst offender list for this, but a VERY limited use of starting fluid does work.

Ah, thanks for clarifying about the fuel lines! A friend said he has a 17mm flare nut crow's foot. When I borrow that I'll open all the lines, crank to purge the existing fuel out til I get air, then supply the fuel from my little bottle and crank again til I get fuel leaking out.

But first I'll try the starting fluid, I'm just waiting to have a helper!



The battery was good, but I've done so much cranking and recharging, I've noticed it runs out a little bit sooner now. But it's still strong enough to allow healthy cranking at least a few times. Also, when I crank, I have jumper cables attached to a second battery (which I also recharge). I wish I had one of those big 200 amp battery chargers / car starters.

I have no block heater.

I never ran VO, WVO or bio.

__________________
'82 300TD
'77 6.9
'75 280S
'74 280
'87 Porsche 944 turbo

I suspect you have tired glow plugs, a weak battery system, a tired starter and a tired engine. I would really like to see you go with new glow plugs. They are not a lot of money and will really make a difference. Then try to get the best possible battery hook up and charge. Slow cranking and 2 or 3 bad glow plugs will ruin the day for anyone trying to start a diesel that has been sitting for a year or two,

__________________
Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!

In the mean time take apart all the connections of the wires to stuff... and really clean them with a powered wire brush... use goggles.... check to see if the battery cables are corroding up inside the cable... green crude.. might need to be replaced..but sure need to be clean at the connections...

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html