I am adding a side story: I have 2 separate occasions sprayed Starting Fluid into Diesels and nothing happened?

It turned out the compression on them was so bad that it would not even ignite the Starting Fluid.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Sorry my last post seemed cut-off, I was having issues while trying to post on my phone.

I never even thought about trying the open end of the wrench on the injectors lines. Since the other end of the injector lines (on the pump) are stuck, I figured that the other ends (on the injectors) were too... but I just tried it and they opened easily with the plain 17mm open wrench.

Fuel seeps out of all 5 while cranking. I forgot to keep going until I'd purged the old fuel out, so I'll do that next time.

Should I see it spraying out a lot? It was just a gentle weep.



I'll check for the block heater... It should be under the exhaust manifold, right?



I tried starting fluid today. I don't think anyone previously mentioned to disable the glow plugs, did they? I had my glow plugs going as usual, and with the starting fluid it starting knocking, so I stopped. But the fluid was already in there, and subsequent cranking gave me a few more knocks. So now I'm waiting for the fluid to evaporate or dissipate, and I'll try again later. But this would indicate I have good enough compression to at least ignite starting fluid.

But anyway, it wouldn't start. So I checked the voltage at the eyelet terminal at the 1st glow plug (with and without the glow plug connected), and I got about 10 volts (even though it's 12 at the relay). I checked resistance of the wire, and it was about 0.4 ohms, so I don't think it's bad wiring. BTW, Battery cables look OK. So I ran jumper wires from the glow plugs directly to the battery, holding it to the positive terminal manually for about 20 seconds before my helper cranked the engine. No change. I even checked the voltage at the plugs again and saw 12 volts with my jumpers connected.

And... I checked with my IR gun and did see the end of the plugs warming up to about 34 degrees C (ambient was 24C).

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'82 300TD
'77 6.9
'75 280S
'74 280
'87 Porsche 944 turbo

How loose were the nuts on the injector lines? If you only cracked the lines, it isn't unusual to see just a "weep". When bleeding air from injector lines, I like to loosen the nuts just enough that I can wiggle the hard line, gives air an easy exit and allows a better fuel flow. Usually about 1 turn or so.

When you get the air out, you'll know. You'll see a little squirt come up around the injector lines. Once you get one or two squirting, you can tighten them down, and the engine should attempt to start at that point. If you have good compression and the glow plugs are working (which it sounds like they are), the firing from the working cylinders will speed up your bleeding process.

Keep in mind that the OM617 doesn't have a self-priming fuel system, so if you have any air in the fuel supply to the injector pump, you'll have problems. The OM603 and later are "self-priming", but still benefit greatly from cracking the injector lines.

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Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

I just cracked them open, about 1/2 to 3/4 turn.

Would it help to pump the priming pump while my helper cranks it?

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'82 300TD
'77 6.9
'75 280S
'74 280
'87 Porsche 944 turbo

Can't hurt and are you sure your hand pump is not leaking air ?

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

How can I be sure? It's not leaking externally, as in, there's no fluid dripping down the side of it. And it's the new style black primer, which I installed several years ago.

BTW, I checked, and the engine does not have the block heater, just a big F'in plug.

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'82 300TD
'77 6.9
'75 280S
'74 280
'87 Porsche 944 turbo

I took out the glow plugs (why do people say it's easy?) to let the engine crank faster. Then I left the injector lines cracked open about 1/2 turn, and cranked until fuel weeped out steadily from each one.

One plug broke while removing (#5 - the terminal nut was stuck so the terminal kept spinning). With glow plugs out I tested them. That broken #5 obviously didn't work anymore. But also #2 had like 300 ohms and didn't glow... odd, they all tested good from the relay plug. Anyway, new plugs went into 4 and 5, and the 3 good old ones went into 1-3.

I even left the hood all the way open so today's 80° sun could hit it for a few hours. It still won't start.

I'm still using the jumper wires to power the glow plugs, and the fresh fuel in a bottle as my fuel source.

Sure sounds like a lack of glow function. Every reason for that is covered above. You can also pull it to start without glow plugs. If it turns fast enough it will start without them.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

There is nothing wrong with using starter fluid if you have the glow function disabled. Just don't go crazy, it only takes a couple of short toots. You can expect a lot of pumping to purge the lift pump, filter, injector pump and lines.

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

No way - the glow system is working fine. All 5 plugs glowed when bench tested. I get 12+ volts out from the relay. At the glow plugs I get a little over 10 volts, which I first thought was a problem, but after doing research I learned that this is normal.

It has to be a fuel delivery problem. I just don't know what else I can do.

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'82 300TD
'77 6.9
'75 280S
'74 280
'87 Porsche 944 turbo

Install the clear line that I suggested earlier. That will be your indicator while you systematically find the source of the leak.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

I see you used starting fluid with the glow plugs and the engine "knocked". Can you describe the knock? Was it an alarming knock? I hope you did not seriously damage the engine.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

If you broke #5 glowplug, how did you get it out?

If its a lack of fuel starting fluid won't help. If it has lost prime and the glows are working it can be started and run safely on wd40 (which is very similar to diesel) until prime is achieved. Starting fluid is for gas engines.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Sorry, I missed the bench testing part.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.