rounded the last mount bolt
 

Driver side mount, inner 6mm. Impossible to see, it was a small victory to even land the allen wrench onto the head blindly. I really shouldve found a chiltons article or something on this job.

After rounding the head, I thought of ways to extract it.. I ended up dremeling a notch at the bottom of the bolt and a square cm of the frame underneath for a screwdriver to fit (lot more frame had to go if I wanted to drill say for a reverse extractor kit). anyway, Yuge failure.

I think I'm done with underneath solutions. Don't really want to drill through the bolt with some fancy bit, the probability of me ruining threads too high.

New course of action: from the top. If I jacked the motor high enough could I fit a ratchet and socket on it? Is hammering a socket over the head in any way possible? and finally the only other idea I have is taking the aluminum arm off, which I am obviously refraining from..last case scenario.(BUT MAY be my last ray of hope::confirm/deny)

need to hear it from the trained veterans
Thanks in advance

Assuming this is the OM617 listed in your signature:

I'd look to removing the mount arm from the side of the engine if necessary - all you need is to twist the mount from the top to loosen the knackered bolt underneath. Once you've got the last knackered bolt loose you might be able to unscrew with needle nosed vice grips.

I had a similar situation with a om603 intake.

The last allen bolt was rounded out by a previous owner.

To slove the problem i took a cheap torx socket slightly bigger than the rounded out hole and bashed it in with a hammer, and took a breaker bar and was able to loosen the bolt.

Might be worth a try.

I also did a similar thing with a w126 lug bolt that had its head ripped off. So i took a socket slightly smaller then the shank and bashed it in, and managed to loosen it.

Hope this helps

I highly recommend the bolt extractor made by IRWIN and sold at Autozone, NAPA, among others. It looks like a set of sockets, the inside is a hard and sharp reverse-helix designed to grip the outside of a bolt head or other, IIRC the small set is only around $20.

I bought this set to remove a head bolt that someone had apparently broken a triple-square bit in, ... and left it there, making it un-drillable (almost) and of course there was no way to get a grinder in there, or a Vice-Grip, or any other method to remove the bolt. The IRWIN extractor set worked very well and is now a valued part of my tool set.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_577634-281-394001_0__?storeNumber=1615&DM_PersistentCookieCreated=true&store_code=1615&selectedLocalStoreBeanAr ray=%5Bcom.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%404f494f49%5D&k_clickID=af2d2782-423b-47d3-b28e-81b7aeca271b&productId=50146292-_-

Its been my experience that Chiltons books (Haynes, too) give a person just enough information to get them into trouble, & then start a new chapter, , ,
I've found chiltons MB books in the trunks of MB's at the local pick & pull yard. <- I think part of the reason they're in the yard now.

-c-

I have three books for the 124

The FSM (actually a set): very good and informative, ... once you figure out the indexing system / arrangement system

Bently E-Class Owner's Bible: Many errors, pretty much a book to read for a primer, or entertainment, not for technical accuracy nor repair work (IMO).

Haynes Mercedes-Benz 124 Series: Very useful workbench manual, might not have the technical details to rebuild an engine or transmission, but for most tasks easier to navigate than the FSM and accurate.

I had a similar situation in PNP. Found a 617 FW in a 81 300D. got everything out and was down to the last bolt holding the Pressure
Plate in. Previous owner or mechanic stripped out the bolt. :mad:
it was about closing time, Nov, cold, wind blowing, packed up and left.
Next morning came back with a set of these.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...pplesquare.jpg

Pounded the second to the smallest into the bolt head :smash: and out she came.
Was not in tight, just could not get a grip on it. These things worked great.

Got the FW out and was only $27. :D


Charlie

I literally just had to do this lol Don't be bashful with the hammering. Sacrificial tools are best.

Remove the lift pump so you can get a straight shot at it and pound in an equivalent/upsized torx bit into the head (by pound, i mean really go at it) and out it should come.

for the future
 

Glad you got it out. For the future... clean out any hex head hole thoroughly before attempting to insert a wrench. Dip the tip of your hex wrench in valve grinding paste so it grips the insides of the hex head. (I learned that tip here in 2003)