Here, I made a mirror image and tilted it so it somewhat matches the angle in the cross section diagram. Now you can see I drilled low. But you can see this even more clear in the real photo of the hole(s).

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z...f9cf5f7c93.jpg

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z...%20plug/GP.jpg

Took your tilted mirror image and tried again. Same color scheme except I added brown (cross hatched) where the 13/64 drill went through part of the glow plug seat/seal on the head. That is a concern since 1/2 of the seat is missing. There is only one coolant breach (yellow circle).

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...418_195249.jpg

A little off topic but you guys will know where I am going with this question:

Will the cylinder head of a 1995 E300, (which I believe is still a 606 engine), fit on my 606 1999 E300?

I can't imagine there being any difference, other than the cam profile may not be the same. You could use the cams from the turbo head, but would also have to move over the cam followers (buckets, lifters- whatever you want to call them) with the cam in their same position.

Ok guys. This is my plan. While I am keeping my eye out for a used head I am planning on plugging up the hole so I can at least get back to driving this on 5 Glow Plugs. I plan to use a combo of RollGuy's "pack with JB Weld and Plug" from Post # 132 (shown here) and funola's "Lead Plug and Hex bolt" method from Posts # 114 (shown here) & 150 (shown here)

1. What I will first do is clean everything real good with brake clean and dry.
Then tap the large 1/2" to accept a hex bolt. This needs to be a very short bolt and hardened Steel, correct? Not sure where to find something so short. Cut one down?

2. Next I will pack entire opening with J-B Weld HighHeat Epoxy Putty making sure to really push the putty into the 13/64 hole and thoroughly pack the entire area. I will pack enough putty to come into the newly tapped threads I made in step one.

3. While putty is still malleable I will thread in 1/2" hex bolt to really 'push' the putty in deeper, filling every possible crevice.

Let sit 24-48 hours so JB hardens, change oil, flush coolant, button everything up, say a prayer and turn the key.

Concerns I would like some input on:

The lead instead of the JB Weld sounds like a great idea, but I have never melted lead. I'm not sure how I would make an exact mold to fit my exact drill pattern. Will it be cool enough to touch, yet still soft enough to 'mold' into the areas I need to pack? The JB stick will be pliable and soft enough to work with that I think I can fill in the area better.

Will JB Weld harden and cure properly if I am sealing it off while still soft?

The Hex bolt is just a final 'plug' to lock everything in there real tight. I know funola said no pipe thread but the only thing I can envision is this:

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...9b279_1000.jpg

Can you steer me in the right direction as to what exactly I should use for this?

Anyway. Sound like a plan?

I looked into this while reading your thread, and I think that I read that the valves have thicker diameters on the turbo heads.

EDIT: Here's a link on it:

http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=3630

I take it back, I think I'm wrong about the valves.

Haha. All good. Thanks for trying to find info. Visually the top of the 1995 606 looks different than the later model 606's. Half the intake manifold goes over the valve cover in the early versions. So I was wondering if the actual head is different. It's fine for now. I am more concerned right now with the patch job. But for future reference I just wanted to know if I can ONLY look for heads coming off the 1996-1999 W210's

The intake manifold is different on the N/A because of the absence of the turbo and intercooler piping, but I believe the head is the same. Also, 1996-7 are N/A, 1998-9 are turbo (North America).

TY RollGuy. Pretty much what I thought. Appreciate the confirmation.

The material you choose for the plug(s) will depend on temperature it will be exposed to. The high temp epoxy will not last if exposed to combustion gas.... the epoxy will slowly burn/erode away till it's all gone. That's why it's important to do the leak down test first, before choosing the plug material.

depending on the working heat range for the product you use in the head, I am willing to stand by that plan.

I think epoxy might be more effective than the lead in this situation - more pliable, more ability to reach tight areas.

My biggest fear is small amounts of moisture reaching the GP end and slowly steam cleaning the carbon out. If you can truly, effectively seal that up, it should last a while.

Good luck.

This is so brutal! How did you manage to deviate the bit so much?

Man you will be able to purchase a 606.962 head from us lot in Europa for a few hundred currencies, and the international shipping is less than that, so less than 500 all in, FYI.

Also, FYI, Europa is the land mass which is located east from US of A, trust me it's there, full of people and everything.

If the 13/64 drill breached combustion gas, neither high temp epoxy or lead will last, (lead will last longer than the epoxy though). If it will see combustion temp, I'd drive a steel set screw to the bottom the 13/64 hole first, then insert a 13/64 lead plug (hammer in to "fit") , then follow with a 1/2" lead plug (hammer in to "fit"), followed with a bolt.

thats true. It just doesn't seem that way from his depths.

He needs to be certain he hasnt drilled into the prechamber.