Bummer. He's going to have to knock that price waaaay down though.

Eeewww... From the description and this thread I don't think the car is worth 1500...

I'd pay $1,500 delivered to CA

Rich, you have competition, I will offer $1600. Just kidding. The car is at scrap value as is, $500. Shipping is about $1000 to CA. It is not an easy job to plug the hole. It is doable DIY but when I read between the lines ...

You may be kidding, but I'm not. I could have it fixed in an hour or two after it arrives.

Let me guess, you gonna TIG weld hole shut in situ.

$3700 is a total joke for that car with corrosion issues and a boat anchor for an engine.

Although I also think I could have that engine and head up and going very quickly. But I know my way around tools, can design custom plugs and have access to a machine shop.

But why? Used heads are not that expensive.

It's hard to believe this made 16 pages of posts when the obvious answer was, "No, you're screwed. Quit pissing about and replace the head."

I've done a LOT of "re-engineering" on stuff to make it work (35+ years in construction equipment maintenance, the stories I could tell) but only when there was no other way.

First by ah-kay in #38, again by maxbumpo in #46, I know I suggested scrap the head or car depending on condition of the car, ... it's there but for some reason we keep trying to put band-aids and bondo on it.

Well for those that remember this fiasco. I finally got around to plugging up that hole. I followed a very similar method that funola posted earlier (thanks again for that). I was very confident this was going to work. And it almost did.

After buttoning everything back up (Everything except the intake manifold), I cranked away. And cranked and cranked. (remember I had a lot of fuel lines disconnected to work on the hole) Finally she fired up. Lots of smoke as expected. I let it run reving it occasionally. Let it run for about 3-4 minutes. "Low Coolant" came on the dash. Which was expected because I knew I lost a good amount when I drilled into the coolant passage. So I shut her down.

After picking up a jug of MB coolant and cutting it with distilled water I filled up the expansion tank. It took about 1/4 - 1/3 of a gallon, which sounded about right based on what I thought I lost. I started her up again. This time, it really started great. I mean right up! Was running fairly smooth too considering the IM was still off. After letting it run a few minutes I shut it down once more. Cleaned up some tools, put some things away, etc. Figured tomorrow I would throw the IM back on a be done with it. AND THEN THINGS WENT SOUTH..

I went to start it up one last time because I was going to move it. Turn the key and..... THUD. Engine sounded like it wanted to crank but just made one heavy click and wouldn't turn. Low and behold when I looked at the 2 intake ports that are above the damaged hole they were filled with coolant. I guess the inner plug didn't hold after all.

Is what I am describing a Hydro-Locked Engine?

Is what I am describing a Hydro-Locked Engine? Yep. BTDT.

Sorry but I think you can stick a fork in this one. Between the engine damage and the corrosion it's a goner.

Before you send this car off to the crusher what kind of shape is the interior in? If it's in decent shape I may be interested in buying couple interior bits from it.

Unless it bent a rod or two, the bottom end may still be good. I am sure there is someone here that could use other parts as well. I know I could use a good bottom end, but I am in CA and you are half a world away. However, I could use a fan shroud, water pump/ thermostat housing, radiator and fan right now. I would be willing to pay for shipping these parts (especially the housing and fan shroud). An engine short block is a different story.....Rich

Turn the key and thud, so it was already full of water and just turned on the starter motor as far as it could.
There cannot possibly be any rod damage at all so just put another head on it and give it an oil change and it will be good to go.