pulling the injector may not be necessary now.

But funola is right. You need to be very certain about the dimensions here before you do anything.

If you only have a thin piece of metal remaining from the GP outer casing (the shiny body part) still in the head, this "bolt" may not be a good solution.

JT20 - Thanks in advance for the drawing in "CAD" you will provide. Although I have to ask. What is CAD?

We'll revisit the dimensions of the hole when the time comes. For now my check list is:

1. Open Expansion tank and let that level get way down. (tonight that is doable).
2. Red Dye test. I will get it good and bloody and post on my youtube channel. The idea is as I fill up the expansion tank to see where I see the red fluid first. Tiny hole or gaping hole. Right? Either way, it will be on video for you guys to analyze. Probably this weekend.
3. Clean injector seat, remover injector, look for coolant (which will now be blood red)... No coolant = Good thing?

Anything else for the near future?

:2thumbsup

Computer Aid Design. ( CAD ). I would recommend you to leave it to the professionals or just dump the car. Sorry to be so frank.

Ok... better info, new plan...

Soak the gp remnants in pm blaster overnight...

Soak again... then...

Start the car... have a towel wadded up over the glow hole...

The plug will blast itself out.

Then, thread the gp opening with a set screw using RED loctite and then you can get a large set screw to seal the coolant and realize you will NEVER put another glow plug in that cylinder.

Vstech is right.

The tip needs to go. It might last for a while, but it will be big trouble when if and when it rattles loose from cycling. it will then get sucked into the chamber and you'll have a bunch of coolant in the cylinder during operation.

The coolant will hydrolock the engine. End of piston/engine. Unless it is plugged and done right the engine is on borrow time. The plug will unstuck when you are hundreds of miles from home.

You guys are all the experts of course, but isn't it time to bite the bullet and pull the head? Or am I missing something.

My nerves wouldn't allow me to drive it without replacing the head. That's balzy, imo. A valve job is good for any automobile with a bunch of mile. Another head, parts, gaskets and the work involved seems like it would be a lot cheaper than buying another car.

vstech beat me to the punch on removing the remnants -- but here's my breif argument for removing the remnants and a slightly different plug.

Eventually that tip will break loose, carbon is not a good glue, especially when subject to very high pressures and temps. It will cause issues given enough time. Without the seat and taper, it could fall into the engine Bad news.

What you need to do is remove it -- but be EXTREMELY CAUTIOUS with running the engine, however briefly, unless the coolant is drained. It if pops loose and you don't realize it, the cylinder intake stroke will draw whatever coolant that is in the hole down into the engine through the prechamber.

If a breif run of the engine and a short full throttle rev does not knock it loose (if it does, think of it as a bullet and have lots of backdrop behind it), I'd drill the center, tap it and either slide hammer or use a threaded rod and a nut to slowly pull it out.

then you should have a machinist make a plug that mimics the GP tip so the compression and flow charactaristics in the prechamber are not changed (you would slightly lower the overall compression of that cylinder with the increased volume. Depending on how much "meat" is left between the drilled area and the prechamber will determine how we reconstruct a seat for the plug. Given dimensions, I can draw you a model to have made at a shop with threads and a seat for a seal.

I'm taking my Professional Engineering licencure exam tomorrow, so I may be silent for several days, but should be back sometime over the weekend to look over the thread again. with the two breaches, putting a functional GP in there may be impossible witout some delicate drilling and reconstruction ops.

funola - I opened the cap on the expansion tank. Nothing came out of the GP hole. Nor was there any visible coolant in the exp tank. I swear I didn't lose much when doing the job. I was in my garage with a piece of cardboard under the car. Some spilled down, but it's not like I had to mop up afterwards.

I also pulled the oil dipstick to see if there was any milky white on there like when there's coolant in the oil. There wasn't. The level was a little high. But not absurd. Based on everything described thus far is there anyway coolant could have made it to the crankcase? Any where else it could have gone based on the holes I drilled? I dunno maybe the level is just below the hole right now. We'll know more when I do the red Dye test.

When and if this hole ever gets plugged up properly, both the coolant and the OIL will be changed before I ever dare turn that key.

Yes, one of those breaches could easily be into an oil gallery...

I am thinking opposite on removing the remains of the glow plug tip. Keep in mind that cylinder pressure will want to force the remaining GP tip AWAY from the prechamber, not into it. Having the back of it slathered with jb weld and maybe some kind of metal taking up the space between the jb weld and the plug, should keep the tip from moving. No matter how much heat or pressure it sees, it can't go anywhere. I think that any more effort to remove the remaining GP tip will result in the head NOT being able to be patched, and the car not drivable. Even if the tip were to somehow get into the prechamber, it will not go any further. It can't get into the combustion chamber (too big).

[QUOTE=mikemass1221;3589799]Maybe this will help too. I think the pics I have provided show more detail. But here it is in video:

After watching your video this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ORG-15RfViY#t=28.100389 came up which is a universal broken glow plug removal kit. It shows some of the techniques and tools used to remove broken glow plugs. Removing the center electrode first is absolutely needed since it allows subsequent drilling to be self centering.

An easy test would be to unscrew the oil drain plug, and let a little out. If any water (coolant) is in the pan, it will come out first.

Milky white oil won't show up till engine is run (DON"T RUN IT!) to churn coolant and oil into suspension. If coolant leaked into the crankcase, it is sitting at the bottom of the sump. Drain the oil and see what comes out.