What should I be checking out before making a purchase? https://nmi.craigslist.org/cto/5521148973.html

Thanks

I am not concerned with the veg oil kit. Just looking for info about the overall vehicle. Thanks

Most anything mechanical can be fixed with reasonable effort. Look undercar for any rust starting with the jack pockets. Remember that the rust will have spread under the paint/coatings to several times the area you can see. So don't accept much rust showing (and I DO body work & welding). Rust and Bosch kill Mercedes!

I just looked at the CL listing. It doesn't look too bad. The oil cooler line looks new which shows that someone has at least tried to love it and the ALDA is still there indicating that it hasn't been messed with too much. Both are good signs. The mileage is low enough that it's probably decent mechanically though you might want to get the trans looked at before you pull the trigger. Check to see if the odometer is working - a lot of them fail and it might have a TON more mileage than it shows. Just make sure the odo moves on the test drive.

Dan

"flare on some of the shifts". Could be something simple, or something expensive. A rebuilt transmission would exceed the price of the car, so you want to be careful.

We're agreeing on the trans. My suggestion is that you have a transmission shop look at it before you buy it. They'll give you an actual diagnosis and at least a rough estimate of the repair costs. Might be an easy fix but like Mxfrank said, it might not. Guys who do this all day long have a much better handle on these issues.

Dan

My experience, cheap cars cost more as soon as you drive away.
You will be spending 2-3k trying to make it drive and feel good.

My opinion, get a car that has a straight body, nice paint (you will never paint it and if you do, its going to be expensive and more than the cars value). Check for water leaks around window seals and sunroof. Get a car with a good interior.

I would rather buy a car with a bad tranny than have to later deal with dents, rust or bad paint.

Just my opinion, spend more money and get yourself a nice looking MB car (inside and outside).

if you have access to grease, the kit looks well made, and nearly worth the price itself... if it works.
look over the FRONT and REAR suspension extremely well... look over the mount points on the front suspension, since most stuff up front is cast iron, and not prone to rust damage... except the SWAY BAR MOUNT POINTS!!! they can and do rust off... look over that point well.
on the rear, the trailing arms are stamped steel, and tend to rust out from the inside... they are HUGE parts to ship used, and new they are $4K... so... yeah... inspect them well!

otherwise, check the jack points, look over the wheelwell accents for rust underneath them in the screw holes etc...

pull the trans dipstick to see if the fluid has any burned smell or darkness to it.

take lots of pictures, and post them here. we'll dissect them for ya!

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Thanks for all the feedback! Did this model have problem with the vacuum pump throwing bearings? If it is still available I will make the 2 hour drive this weekend to check it out and maybe make the purchase. Thanks again

I forgot to mention:

If you can, make arrangements get the car up on a hoist with the seller there so you can look at the rust situation and the stuff VS Tech mentioned. Depending on what you find you might negotiate a cheaper price or maybe decide to take a pass. If the seller is there you can show him/her your concerns.

If you can't make arrangements to get it up in the air at least take a floor jack and a pair of jack stands so you can safely crawl under there and take a look (NO RAMPS - they kill people). You need as good a look as you can possibly get.

Remember, this is NOT a ton of money as far as car sales go but you need to have a realistic idea of how big a bite you're about to take.

I disagree with the poster who made a big deal out of the paint. IF it's really awful and the price is right you can get an OK paint job at MAACO for $1500 w/clear coat if you do the prep yourself. It won't be factory perfect but it's NOT a new car! However, if there's structural (or significant surface) rust it probably won't be worth the effort.

Dan

Biggest thing to me would be the engine. Remove the oil fill cap with the engine running and see how much vapor puffs from the hole, similarly the "dancing fill cap" test. That is the poor-man's blow-by test. Many youtube videos. If the rings and cylinders are worn, the engine is shot and a professionally rebuilt one costs $8500.

I wouldn't worry about the vacuum pump. A new one costs $350, but some here have switched to an electric pump (newer VW, Audi diesels, $50 ebay + switch). Many quirky issues arise due simply to poor vacuum.

A few here have rebuilt the tranny, so there are posts w/ photos. I have seen rebuild kits for $190, i.e. ~2x 1980's U.S. cars. That often gets better w/ time as more need rebuild and demand goes up. Isn't that actually opposite what they teach in micro-economics?

I can't speak to rust issues since my 300D's show no rust in CA, but a major concern for MI.

Best summary is that you have to like diesels, M-B, or trust in M-B reliability. These cars are more expensive to maintain than a basic Chevy or Toyota. Some parts costs are outrageous, so you must be resourceful and visit junkyards.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

Does the hood not close?
Are the front wheels missing the center caps? If yes, why. They are filthy to boot, shows neglect.
Chrome "eye brows" on the fenders often mean rust is underneath.
Not a fan of grease conversions.

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83 SD

84 CD

Much much nicer examples abound for not very much money.

Strange, a 123 with same engine is usually far more expensive. 126 cars with the OM617 go for $2k to $3k all the time.

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

For some reason, the 126 does not hold value as a 123.

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83 SD

84 CD