This car was overheated badly by the PO when I got it,the old head was really warped beyond being savable so I found a good non-warped head at a junkyard. I swapped it on with a new updated MB headgasket,new Victor-Reinz headbolts and did it all according to the FSM. I also checked the block for straightness and chased the headbolt threads. This is the end result with the engine warm:

IDLE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bfxf98Opijc

REVS
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKLwF40ZeUk

SHUTDOWN
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LBENASNrX0


Thoughts?

This isn't normal is it?
I've got alot of wrench time in this car and I really hope this engine isn't a lost cause. I already tried to re-torque the headbolts but didn't re-torque the inner 5 (closest to the driver side) because I would've had to take the IM back off.. Trying to save my back at this point,I wanted to get some opinions first.

Thanks PP,you guys are the best.

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04 Sprinter 3500 - 310k
"Ich mag die Dieselgeräusche"
https://youtu.be/YjrxHqNy5CQ
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A friend of mine said it might be steam,and I am unable to turn on the heater at this point. Only the A/C works in this car,I can try to figure out how to engage the heater manually if anyone thinks that's worth trying/doing to try and flush the heater core. (I have no idea if that'll help to be honest)

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04 Sprinter 3500 - 310k
"Ich mag die Dieselgeräusche"
https://youtu.be/YjrxHqNy5CQ
✞

you will get steam in the tank - normal.

fluctuations of water level when revving - normal.

try putting the cap on, then start the engine. - How quickly does the upper radiator hose firm up with pressure?

Explain how you "re-torqued" the head bolts (not a great idea)

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Awesome,my other diesels don't steam out of the tank though,but that's fantastic news if it's normal! I'll see how long it takes for the upper hose to firm up,it does get pretty firm..
I didn't trust my torque gauge and read where other people had to re-torque the headbolts and yea you're right it probably wasn't the best idea to do but I just felt to see how tight they all were and got them all snug. A few did feel a little loose if that says anything.. Only 4 could really be tightened,and they went another 15-20 degrees or so.

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04 Sprinter 3500 - 310k
"Ich mag die Dieselgeräusche"
https://youtu.be/YjrxHqNy5CQ
✞

I think you have a breach between coolant and cylinder(s). The water level should not move when you rev the engine. This is what I would do.

1) Let engine cools down, stone cold.
2) Put radiator cap back on
3) Start car
4) If the upper radiator hose gets rock hard within minutes ( before coolant or engine get hot ) then there is a breach.

You need a lot of luck.

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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.

It's hot, steam is normal. As far as the level change when revving, it is common for the level to drop when revving, seems excessive however, perhaps a bit of air in the system.

What does the temp gauge indicate, normal? If so, get the air out and drive it.

Agreed however that re-torqueing the head bolts is a bad idea, they are "stretch bolts" which if beyond their limit are to be discarded, no way to tell at this point.

Do you know what casting number head you installed? If from a 300D 2.5turbo (and original or newer) you should be fine, if from an '87 190Dt it could be one of the early 602 heads that were superseded at the same time that the 603 heads were (same issues).

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

The head came off a '91 identical to mine,I'm going to try the test 'ah-kay' suggested tomorrow morning. Temp gauge is all within spec,there is some air in the coolant system that I'm aware of,if you squeeze the top rad hose when it's cool you can feel it's half full. I tried to turn on the heater to flush the heater core out,but it won't do anything the A/C just stays on.. Is there any way to do it manually? I know on some cars you can just manually open the controls but I'm not sure on this one,it looks like it's partially electrically operated. Or is there any other way to get air out of the cooling system?

Thanks again guys!
matt

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04 Sprinter 3500 - 310k
"Ich mag die Dieselgeräusche"
https://youtu.be/YjrxHqNy5CQ
✞

You can't see steam. You can see water vapor. Have we determined whether this is steam or mislocated exhaust? The Stench Discriminator should know at the first whiff.
Invert a glass jar over it and see if it condenses quickly on the surfaces. Water vapor will do that. Exhaust? More than likely not.

Maybe you are good.

snapped_bolt

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'81 240D For now, a good place to borrow new parts
'80 300TD Probably will be put back into service!
'79 240D BACK IN SERVICE SINCE 09/16; limited use, oil leak. Guide pin r/sealed/replaced. Still a leak. Front crank seal....

It builds up some moisture in the glass.

__________________
04 Sprinter 3500 - 310k
"Ich mag die Dieselgeräusche"
https://youtu.be/YjrxHqNy5CQ
✞

You can get a test kit that will detect exhaust gas in the coolant.

Uview Combustion Leak Tester UVU560000: Advance Auto Parts

Are you sure about this? I've never heard of head problems on 190Dt's. I rebuilt mine at 300K miles. Aside from some valve seat damage, it was perfect. Didn't even need skimming.

I have heard similar info to Babymog's.

my impression of the 5 cylinder turbo is that is prone to failure. Only the turbo though.

this comes from local independent shops in my area. 2 of which had cars sit around for years because they could not find replacement heads for them.

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How about that? EPC shows three superceding heads, and notes "the old part must no longer be installed." Guess I'm lucky.

If it does not overheat just drive it for awhile. If a combustion leak is getting into the coolant I suspect a mess will form on the surface of the coolant. Also if you think your cap is okay check if the radiator hose is still under pressure the next morning. Just perhaps a couple of things to think about.

Hmm, my copy of the FSM, procedure 01-5800hx, says 15 Nm 1st stage, 35 Nm second stage, 90 degrees third stage, ten minute wait, the 90 degrees again for fourth and last stage.

What procedure did you follow?

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC