Hi folks,

I wanted to know if anyone had any tips about sump cleaning without removal from engine.

Current mad ideas include (bit not limited to):

- Remove oil cooler and reach in with hand/rag with solvent.

- Fill sump with diesel (oil has been drained), drain and repeat several times until clear.

Not sure how much sludge is in there but I suspect a fair bit, i might try removing sump plug and probing with clean cloth.

__________________
David


1996 Mercedes S124 E300TD - 129k - rolling restoration project -

1998 Mercedes W210 300TD - 118k (assimilated into above vehicle)

What good does it do by cleaning? Why not have a pint and don't waste your time?

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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.

I'd start the job with a shop vac. I might do most of the job. Then according to how clean I wanted it I'd probably try filling it until it ran over with diesel and mildly stirring. Just enough to get the settled materials to suspend in the diesel.

The shop vac would remove the suspensions after the stirring.

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

There are 2 ways to do this.

1) Remove the oil pan.

2) change oil at regular intervals.

Any other method results in much work for zero gain. If there is sludge at the bottom of the pan, it will sit there dormant or come out with regular oil changes.

Cleaning out the residue will hopefully keep the oil a little less 'soot' like for longer.

I have seen several MB diesel owners drain a liter of oil out before the change replacing with diesel, running the engine hot without any load then drain.

clemson, thanks, not sure what a shop vac is but I have one of those vacuum suction pumps, might try that.

97 SL320, point taken and agree, that's by far the best way but for the moment not practical as moving shortly.

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David


1996 Mercedes S124 E300TD - 129k - rolling restoration project -

1998 Mercedes W210 300TD - 118k (assimilated into above vehicle)

I would suggest you fill with some part synthetic engine oil and run it for a shorter oil change duration and drain it out. It will remove some. Why do you think there is sludge in there?

coolant adulteration with lube oil??

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

The top end showed heavy signs of carbon/soot build up when I pulled it apart.

Inlet manifold and ports were down to 50% of air flow due to soot choking absolutely everything.

Mileage wise the engine has only covered 126k but most of this was around town with a damaged altitude sensor.

Since the head rebuild I have changed the oil twice with no miles, just to try and clean it up - the rings may be partially stuck too as a little smoky when warm, hopefully clean oil with reduce this until it gets a good run.

__________________
David


1996 Mercedes S124 E300TD - 129k - rolling restoration project -

1998 Mercedes W210 300TD - 118k (assimilated into above vehicle)

That sounds more like EGR to me... sure would be a shame if something happened to it... there has been a rash of EGR valve thefts around here.

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1982 300D (w123, "Grey Car")
1982 300D (w123, "Blue Car")
2001 Ford F150 "Clifford" (The Big Red Truck)
1997 Dodge Ram 2500 12V Cummins
1996 Dodge Ram 2500 12V Cummins
Previous Vehicles:
1995 E300D, 1980 300SD, 1992 Buick Century, 2005 Saturn Ion

Absolutely, mine went walk-about during the rebuild and never came back, shame

Just waiting for semi synth, 5w 40w to arrive, poured 1.5 litres of diesel into sump from filler - will drain tomorrow.

Incidentally, also poured the drained oil into a clear bottle, it's like treacle taking an age to drain from sump.

Thankfully no particles in there that I could spot.

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David


1996 Mercedes S124 E300TD - 129k - rolling restoration project -

1998 Mercedes W210 300TD - 118k (assimilated into above vehicle)

Mobil1 will clean that out, but I think you need to drive it around. M1 has mild cleaning properties that will work on all the sludge and deposits including the soot. In your shoes, I'd put in a fill of M1 with a fresh filter and drive that around for 1000 miles or so, change both oil and filter, then run the next fill for 5k miles, repeat. If you purchase a 4-pack of used oil analysis for about $80 or so, you can send in periodic samples so you REALLY know what is going on.

Check at FLAPS for engine oil sump cleaners / engine oil flush, they are out there. I used one in a Ford Crown Vic years ago, seemed to do a decent job.

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

One FLAPS website lists Gunk MotorMedic Engine Flush, but the description points to a different product for turbo engine application:

Cleans engines in 5 minutes. Frees up sludge associated with slow city driving. IMPORTANT. MotorMedic Motor Flush is not recommended for Turbo Charged engines, when the Turbo Charger is lubricated by the engine oil. For those applications use MOTORMEDIC Synthetic Motor Flush for Turbo Charged Gas and Diesel Engines (MFD1).

__________________
Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

I'm sorry, I didn't notice I was addressing one who is in Europe. A shop vac is short for shop vacuum cleaner. Typically, they are wet/dry vacuum cleaners which include a ball which floats when the canister is filled near capacity with a liquid which prevents the motor from drowning.

I have a small one which is sufficient for cleaning inside the car. I attach a nozzle to create a smaller inlet which increases it's suctioning power and allows for getting through small openings.

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

Thanks Max, I'll see how it goes with the diesel option and go from there.

Cheers Clemson, I thought it may have been an industrial vac but wondered if something a bit special for use on oil.

__________________
David


1996 Mercedes S124 E300TD - 129k - rolling restoration project -

1998 Mercedes W210 300TD - 118k (assimilated into above vehicle)

I've heard topping up with a little ATF about 100 miles before an oil change loosens a lot of gunk. I've been doing it for a while and its hard to tell if it does anything because I've not pulled the pan before i started doing it.

Shame about that egr, there must be a huge demand for them somewhere for so many to get stolen.

__________________
1982 300D (w123, "Grey Car")
1982 300D (w123, "Blue Car")
2001 Ford F150 "Clifford" (The Big Red Truck)
1997 Dodge Ram 2500 12V Cummins
1996 Dodge Ram 2500 12V Cummins
Previous Vehicles:
1995 E300D, 1980 300SD, 1992 Buick Century, 2005 Saturn Ion

This is a pan from my earlier OM605, same as 606 but minus one pot.

It has a good gradient draining towards the sump plug, hopefully pouring in diesel through the filler will help loosen it further towards this angle.

I guess you could modify a sump lug to incorporate a 'solvent' jet wash, then suck it out using the same tube.

__________________
David


1996 Mercedes S124 E300TD - 129k - rolling restoration project -

1998 Mercedes W210 300TD - 118k (assimilated into above vehicle)