CDI was throwing a code for the crank sensor and would start great when cold, but not when warm.

Car then decided not to start at all while crank sensor was in the mail. Crank sensor was replaced and the car will not start still. Car is now throwing a P0642 code (hard code, instantly comes on) and occasionally a p0106 code.


P0642 Sensor Ref Voltage 1 Circuit Low
P0106 Barometric Press Out of Range

I have seen something along the lines of the p0642 code meaning that the 5v circuit is too low? Is there a fuse that would cause this if it blew?


I'm at a real loss here, the car will not start and I am really not sure where to go from here...

Have you inspected the engine wiring harness?

My problem today - code reads P0642

That in a sprinter, is it still applicable here?

Might be worth checking, it just seems strange that it ran great before except hot starts and then all of the sudden will not crank at all.

I hate dealing with wiring as well, might be time to send it off for a repair.

It does have good fuel pressure

Is the battery charged all the way up?

__________________
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1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
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Yes, I also connected the large battery in my TDI to it as well with no change.

If its the right year sprinter they are both OM642 so the information should be applicable.

edit: OM642 Sprinters didn't come out until 07. So the one in the thread is probably OM611/OM647 but its still worth reading.

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68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500

Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i

I have the OM648 and that sprinter should have the OM647


I just meant that the harnesses must be a bit different. I also cant send a message to the guy with the issues because the board over there will not allow me.

I did check out the wiring in that area but it all appears to be fine.

Duh, I don't know what I was thinking you had a bluetec. Sorry about that.

__________________
68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500

Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i

No worries, the P0642 DTC might be a good reason for the confusion.


Thanks for the reply!

DrewKeen,

Without the proper diagnostic equipment, there is no way to tell what is really going on. Is it a bad sensor, wiring issue or something else?

I'd recommend before you spend anymore time or money on it, that you send your CDI off for diagnostics at a local shop or dealer.

Don't change random unrelated parts in hopes of fixing this.

Put a volt meter on the 5V reference 1 wire and start unplugging sensors starting with the crank sensor until the voltage pops back up.

If this uses a Hall Effect crank sensor, I've seen bad ones pull the 5 V line down.

The baro code is likely a result of that sensor not being powered up, this would be one of the first things the computer looks at when the key is turned to run.

Replaced the cam position sensor and the car seems to be running fine.

That's great, thanks for the update!

I was thinking a bad camshaft sensor may have been a possibility. Glad it's up and running again!