You'll want to find your friendly local Parker or Swagelok store. They'll be able to adapt anything to anything with strong, fluid-tight fittings that will last well past the life of the truck. They know me by name at our local shop. The plastic line should be good for any reasonable pressure that you'll want to run in the system.

Dan

Great, I'm glad i don't have to replace it all.
Fixed the wiring in my radio( the last owner did it with duct tape) and put my dash back to gethe. I messed up wiring g the glow plug indicator light, it turns on when the circuit is off, and turns on when the circuit's on. The problem with using the turn on power wire for the radio to feed the glowplug switch is that when you turn it on you can hear a loud hum through the speakers.

Don't know when I'll hav time to do mmuchore work on my truck but the adapter is done!

Or do you mean that the light turns off when the circuit is on?

If that is the case, you have the light wired across the switch.

Go back and read my posts 169 and 177.

Yup that was it, got it working right. I thought that it was just the glow plugs that made the speakers hum but actually tuning anything on makes a hum. The high beams are the worst, they drown out the radio almost entirely. I doubt that was happening before I took everything apart. What could be the cause?

Tach is effected tohttps://youtu.be/l2fKCXwQrRA

Are you running the electrical system from a battery charger? If so , that is where the hum is coming from ( most battery chargers make pulsing DC ) . Otherwise, you shouldn't be getting electrical noise from a DC battery.

I am! Few I'm glad that's all it is. Why would the tack be effected at all by the lights? Where do you think the sensor even is? I don't remember disconecting anything from low on the engine ( I'm guessing that it'd read off the crankshaft). There are two wires on the transmission but I don't know what they're for. Could those be for the tach?

The tach is used to seeing a pure DC power supply not pulsing so it will act up. The battery charger probably gets more electrically noisy with high loads.

Battery chargers usually have a pretty high open circuit / light load voltage so use a volt meter and don't run the system over 14.8 ish volts to prevent damage.

The tach gets it's signal from the negitive side of the ignition coil.

The two wires at the trans will be for backup lights. ( sometimes there is also a top gear switch but that isn't common. ) These wires will make their way to a 4 wire connector. At this connector there is a wire loop for manual trans, this feeds the " engage the starter " signal to the clutch switch and then to the starter solenoid.

With an auto trans, the 4 wire connector is disconnected and the neutral safety / backup switch plugs in here.

Oh ok, thanks for the explanation.

So my friend said he'd send the adapter Monday, but he fogot and it was to late to ship it Tuesday when I reminded him. Was going to ship it today bit a hurricane is about to hit Florida so he left and hasn't shippeed jt. Hopefully it'll come in by this weekend, I want to test fit it all.

I need to replace this rusty thing, I thought it was called the front lower shock mount buy I can't find it online or at the store. One bolt holdes the shock on and the other two hold the bushing for the sway bar( I think that's what it is). What is it called/where do I do d it? Also what years would have this same part? None of the junkyards around me have unrusty parts this old so.

Get out a piece of 1/4" steel plate, an oxy-acetylene torch, and a welder. Lay out the shapes you need and make your own - I do stuff like this all the time.

Dan

I would but I don't have acetylene and so the cutting/bending would be a pain in the ass. Normally I enjoy making every piece but I want this thing done this year and that's not going to happen unless I pick up the pace. If I have to I'll find time when I can use my friend's set up to make it but honestly I'm way to busy to be making parts that I should be able to buy. .

My bad, I went out and looked at the other bracket that's intaked And it's made of thinner then 16 gauge metal (for some reason theentire passenger side, including the frame, is mint but the driver side is shot) so I figure if I get some 12ga I'll be good, and that's thin enough for me to work without to much of an issue.

This won't be something you are going to find at an auto parts. Try a Ford dealer first, it might still be in the pipeline.

I'd call it a lower shock bolt support bracket. Also, I'd expect 83 to 97 2 and 4 WD to be the same as well as older Explorer. It may even be the same as full sized trucks.

For a good Ranger web site, go to therangerstation.com

I was going to say, you're not going to find a lot of Ranger expertise on this board. There have to be good sites for Rangers/Ford products out there and the recommended one is a good place to start.

My OM617 -> R107 swap means that I spend time in both the PP forum for diesel stuff and BenzWorld forum for SL stuff and occasionally venture out to SuperTurboDiesel just for interesting perspective on performance stuff. Each forum has its own focus, personality and etiquette and generally loaded with good info. Also check out the many sites with information on swaps....lots of information is general in nature and may provide you with tips and tricks that will get you through. I'm convinced swaps are 90% research and 10% wrenching and fabrication.