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  #76  
Old 06-24-2016, 10:22 PM
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Good I thought so, have just about all the parts I need then

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  #77  
Old 06-24-2016, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by I am me View Post
Good I thought so, have just about all the parts I need then
...famous last words

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  #78  
Old 06-25-2016, 07:51 AM
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BE CAREFUL taking the fittings off at the oil cooler! They LOVE to twist the metal parts on the cooler into an unusable knot. The one from the engine in Mutt is unusable but the guy who pulled my back-up engine removed the oil cooler with the engine w/o disconnecting it so I was able to mess with it out in the open and with some heat was able to get the fittings loose. Now I have a good cooler if I decide I need one though so far Mutt does OK given that he only goes a mile at a time at WOR.

Dan
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  #79  
Old 07-01-2016, 03:09 PM
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Thanks for the heads up, hopefully it won't be to hard on mine seeing as the front of the car is gone
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  #80  
Old 07-03-2016, 09:33 PM
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Got the transfer case off with my dad's help and have gotten the engine and trans mostly disconnected. Just have to get the stubborn little pin out that holds the clutch li e in and then I can pull them out
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  #81  
Old 07-04-2016, 06:56 AM
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If this has an external slave cylinder, unbolt the cylinder and leave it on the truck. The roll pin can be difficult to get out and the line end can stick

If internal, unbolt the master from the firewall and take it out with the trans. These use a push the sleeve then pull the line connector that is sometimes difficult to remove as well.
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  #82  
Old 07-04-2016, 07:05 AM
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The aluminum oil cooler attachment points have an extra hex so you can use two wrenches and avoid tearing the fitting loose from the tank of the cooler. Use them with great care as the thin aluminum is very easy to tear.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #83  
Old 07-06-2016, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 97 SL320 View Post
If this has an external slave cylinder, unbolt the cylinder and leave it on the truck. The roll pin can be difficult to get out and the line end can stick

If internal, unbolt the master from the firewall and take it out with the trans. These use a push the sleeve then pull the line connector that is sometimes difficult to remove as well.
I had a reply and it got deleted. I had to cut the line
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OM617 swap into Ford Ranger, what would it take?-img_20160705_184946415.jpg  
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  #84  
Old 07-10-2016, 06:38 PM
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Got the Mercedes to start. Starter should be replaced I had to hit it wile a friend tried to start it to get it going. It blasts white smoke. I'm going to use that engine because it looks about as hard to get the starter off ass it is to take the engine out. So to do that what are these? So first pic is of the big hose on The right side of the engine near glow plugs, second is where it goes to. Third,vacuum pump? Forth, what is that thing?
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OM617 swap into Ford Ranger, what would it take?-img_20160710_181559602.jpg   OM617 swap into Ford Ranger, what would it take?-img_20160710_181604627.jpg   OM617 swap into Ford Ranger, what would it take?-img_20160710_181700377.jpg   OM617 swap into Ford Ranger, what would it take?-img_20160710_181721338.jpg  
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  #85  
Old 07-10-2016, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by I am me View Post
Got the Mercedes to start. Starter should be replaced I had to hit it wile a friend tried to start it to get it going. It blasts white smoke. I'm going to use that engine because it looks about as hard to get the starter off ass it is to take the engine out. So to do that what are these? So first pic is of the big hose on The right side of the engine near glow plugs, second is where it goes to. Third,vacuum pump? Forth, what is that thing?
1 & 2 Heater hose,
3 Vacuum pump,
4 Air Conditioner compressor.
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  #86  
Old 07-10-2016, 07:18 PM
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AC compressor. Looks like a GM-style. Dang, give that poor engine a bath! Seriously, it's a lot more fun to work on a more or less clean engine.

Dan
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  #87  
Old 07-10-2016, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan Stokes View Post
Dang, give that poor engine a bath!
Agree....and it's a ton easier with the engine out of the car.
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  #88  
Old 07-10-2016, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan Stokes View Post
AC compressor. Looks like a GM-style. Dang, give that poor engine a bath! Seriously, it's a lot more fun to work on a more or less clean engine.

Dan
What do you recommend to clean it? I'd rather not blast the whole thing in brake cleaner. I've got a pressure washer but that junk is really stuck and so it takes awhile to blast it off
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Originally Posted by Alec300SD View Post
1 & 2 Heater hose,
3 Vacuum pump,
4 Air Conditioner compressor.
Cool thanks, weather permitting I'll pull the engine tomorrow.

If any of you guys want parts I'd be happy to sell all but the engine in the car. I'll sell the engine that's already out though. I'm running out of money as the new school year approaches haha
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  #89  
Old 07-11-2016, 12:23 AM
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What do you recommend to clean it?
Nothing caustic. For heavy buildup, use a large stiff nylon bristled parts brush dip it in a container of biodiesel, apply sparingly with a container positioned below to catch drips and plenty of rags.

Afterwards, at the carwash, use ZEP Heavy Duty Citrus Degreaser (from Home Depot) applied from a portable pump up garden sprayer (you'll get tired using a standard trigger spray bottle).
Hint...bring your ramps to the carwash if you have a set, also remove the air cleaner, cover the turbo inlet with a glove and a spray can cap and cover the crankcase oil recovery tube with a glove as well.
Rinse with the carwash pressure wand.
(Don't use the carwash engine cleaner...who knows what is in it)

Edit: Didn't see engine is already out of the car...kind of hard to transport a pulled engine to the carwash
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  #90  
Old 07-11-2016, 09:20 AM
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That gunk sticks TIGHTLY! There's some kind of special Diesel engine grime that's tough to get off. I've had the best luck with the ultra-toxic Easy-Off oven cleaner - follow label directions for an extra grimey oven. Yes, it's toxic as He!! but it actually works. Scrub where you can (wear gloves and a face shield!) then hose it off with the power washer. It won't get it all but it'll get a lot.

Take anything you remove (say, the cam cover, oil pan, etc.) and to your local auto machine shop. They have a high pressure, high temp cleaner cabinet that they can put them in and get them cleaner than you can at home.

All of the above is well worth doing.

Dan

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