Originally Posted by mach4 (Post 3622510)

For the glow plugs use a Ford starter solenoid. For the shutdown, use a switchover valve. Your fuel pump is on the engine so you don't need the one in the tank - in fact you shouldn't use it.

Originally Posted by Dan Stokes (Post 3622513)

Glow plugs draw a TON of amps so you can't run body power directly to them. You'll need battery power and AT LEAST a 12 gage (I think I used 10 gage) wire thru a Ford-style starter relay. DO NOT get the starter one, get the ones used for snow plow actuators - they are made for continuous duty and will hold up to the glow plugs. I got mine at Car Quest and they knew exactly what to hand me. Not too expensive. Use a TEMPORARY switch (like a starter button) inside the truck to activate the solenoid. That circuit just takes body power, no high amps. No clue why the factory actuator stuff was whining - maybe it was feeling abused?

I don't have an in-tank pump. Remember, the injection pump is fitted with a lift pump which is made to pull fuel into the injection pump. Of course, I have a front-mounted fuel tank and a VERY short fuel line but I don't think you'll need an in-tank pump. Remove the in-tank pump or it will inhibit the flow to the fuel line running up front.

The engine shuts off by applying vacuum to the shut-off fitting on the rear of the injection pump. I needed the engine to shut off any time the power was removed (track rules) and it was a stinker to make that work. There are several ways to do the shut off system but I suggest you READ my build thread on here. All of the questions you asked were addressed in detail in that thread and I think it'll be well worth your time. If you need more details you can read my build thread on BangShift.com. which has even more info than the one on here.

Dan

Originally Posted by mach4 (Post 3622579)

The engine is shutdown by applying a vacuum to the shutdown valve on the injector pump. A switchover valve is a three position vacuum solenoid where one port goes to atmosphere, one to vacuum and one to the IP. When off, the IP sees atmosphere (no vacuum) and when activated sees vacuum.

You could use a vacuum solenoid (as I did initially on my swap) but you'd need to put a pinhole in the line to bleed off vacuum when power is off (so you can start the engine). I'm currently using a Mazda EGR purge valve for mine. If you source it at the junk yard, grab the electrical pigtail for ease of installation.

You can modify your glow relay to use the 80amp fuse and the glow harness if you want to work well with the Ford solenoid. (Details here - http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2985078-post8.html) Some people have had problems with the solenoids, but I've had mine (pulled at the junk yard) in for 108k miles without a hiccup.

Originally Posted by OM617YOTA (Post 3622573)

With the Ford starter solenoid and it's exposed terminals, you can bypass it with a pair of jumper cables to get your engine started. No clue on the MBZ one.

Edit: I also used a toggle switch for GPs instead of a push button like everyone else. In the summer it's 5 seconds glow time. In the winter it can be 45 seconds + and I wanted my hands free while that was happening. I like being able to flip on the switch, put on my seatbelt, check mirror adjustment, sip my coffee, or whatever before starting the truck. I have a bright red indicator light and as everyone predicted, I still left them on a couple times. Added a very loud annoying buzzer, and it's been good since. I ran my indicator light from the same relay-power-out that runs to the glow plugs, which is a much better indication that my GPs are actually getting power than just off the switch that kicks the relay.

I used an emissions solenoid from the original Toyota gas setup for a shut down.

You don't need the in-tank pump, but you'll definitely want to remove it. If you look through my build thread you'll see where I extended my fuel pickup with a piece of hose.

Ask away. I spent over two years researching my swap and still annoyed the snot out of these guys with questions. Hopefully I can give something back to the forum for all the help.

Originally Posted by Dan Stokes (Post 3622700)

Hope I didn't sound grumpy - I didn't mean to. Ask away as there's no other way to learn. My thread and Yoda's and others have a treasure trove of info and are really worth the read if somewhat snooze-inducing. Pretty much all the "usual" issues have been solved in a number of different ways in our builds and annoyingly shared in stupid detail on our threads :P.

Dan

Originally Posted by I am me (Post 3623036)

Would this work to shut the engine off?
What's the black box by the throttle linkages?

Could i just use all the stuff to start/stop the engine that is in the car? That'd be cheapest

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY (Post 3623050)

Or you could just "T" a vacuum source to the shutoff and run a hose into the cabin. When you want to shut down the engine, just cover the end of the hose with your finger.......Rich

Originally Posted by I am me (Post 3623991)

^i'm liking that idea! Don't have time to read though stuff now but I've got a quick question. How can I start my spare engine without it being in the car? Hook glow plugs and starter to battery and supply fuel is all right? There's a couple people who want to buy it if it runs good

Originally Posted by I am me (Post 3623991)

^i'm liking that idea! Don't have time to read though stuff now but I've got a quick question. How can I start my spare engine without it being in the car? Hook glow plugs and starter to battery and supply fuel is all right? There's a couple people who want to buy it if it runs good

Originally Posted by I am me (Post 3623036)

So I need two starter solenoids, one for the starter and one for the glow plugs. For the glow plugs can i just hook them to a starter solenoid, switch, fuse and battery or do I need more stuff?

Originally Posted by mach4 (Post 3623040)

That looks identical to the one I picked at the junk yard...should work fine.

What black box? Pictures?

You could, but the integration would be far more complex. For example the stock shutdown is a mechanical valve on the back of the ignition switch. You'd have to find a way to remove the ignition module from the steering column and install it in the target vehicle....not something I'd attempt. One way or another you need a vacuum valve to accomplish the shutdown.....OK, I lied - you can just run a length of vacuum hose into the cabin and when you want to shutdown the engine just suck on the hose! (I know it works because my original vacuum solenoid failed when I was 2500 miles from home on one of my cross country road trips and a temporary length of hose got me home)

Originally Posted by OM617YOTA (Post 3624122)

Yeah that's it, provided you get all that stuff in the right order.

I ran one big wire to the engine, then split that wire off to go to each GP. When one GP fails, I have to disconnect the wire to each GP and test the resistance of each GP to find the one that quit. The MBZ factory system has individual wires running off the engine from each GP, which then separately go into a connector and then on to the GP relay. When you have a GP failure with the MBZ system, you can yank that connector and check resistance on each of those pins to figure out which GP quit, and then you only have to disconnect the wire from that particular GP. WAY easier, especially as GP's never fail when convenient.

I also used spade/fork terminals instead of ring terminals on my GP's. I only have to loosen the nut and pull the spade out, instead of removing the nut entirely and risking losing it. Doing GP's in the snow ONCE convinced me of this, as of course GP's don't go out when you're in a comfy heated shop with a nice concrete floor and time to kill and just happen to feel like doing a bit of wrenching, just for the sheer pleasure of it.