Are you running the MB starter trigger terminal to the large terminal of the fender mounted Ford solenoid?

Yeah I think that's how I did it

Tried to start it yesterday but couldn't quite get it. I got a good bit of smoke out of the exhaust but it wouldn't fire. My battery was getting low so I put it on the charger and will try again next weekend

I just realized that I forgot to reconnect the ALDA, does it go to the nipple on the end of the intake manifold?

Can't help you with that one, removed the ALDAs on all the engines I had.

That first fire is always tough after air has gotten in the lines. Has to be the most frustrating part of getting these swaps going to me by far.

Good luck and remember to keep that system primed.

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'85 300D ~ 381k, HD Bilstien shocks, 27.50x8.50x14R General Grabber AT2 tires, 4 E-Code headlight upgrade with 90/130w bulbs, boost turned up, new timing chain, and injectors. SOLD

'85 CJ7 ~ OM617 swap, Tarus electric fan, T5 trans, Dana 300, 4.88 R&P, Mile Marker locking hubs, ALDA removed, AMC 20 rear disk brake conversion, Aussie locked with 33's and 5" Rough Country lift.

Ok that wasn't the problem then I thought that it might have had an effect on starting the engine having it disconnected. I think I got the air out correctly. for each injector I I loosened the hard line , turned the engine over until fuel came out, and than tightened it back down. Might have just been that the engine wasn't turning fast enough. The transfer case is stuck in 4 low until I figure out all the electrical problems and so I was spinning the CV axles as I was trying to start it. I don't have the starter wiring going to the the ignition key so I was just setting off the starter and glow plug solenoids with a wire from the battery and couldn't press the clutch. I forgot that there was neutral lol.

Think plugging in the block heater for a couple hours before I try and start it would help? It's 70 degrees out so it shouldn't need it but it hasn't run in over a year

Should I worry about there being air in the power steering lines when I try and start it? I filled the resivoir and was going to run the return the line from the steering box and the return line to the pump into a bucket of ATF and spin the wheel back and forth to get the air out. Is that the right way to do it or do I have to get the air out somehow before I start it?

Turning the steering wheel without the engine running / ps pump turning won't get the air out. I would not be too concerned with bleeding the ps system yet.

I finally have a break from school and can work on this thing again. Fluid dynamics is a cool class and all but jeez its good to take a break. It's getting cold and so I dropped the drain bolt that goes in the block when I tried to reinstall it, anyone know where I can get a new one or what size bolt it is?

I'm going to redo the fuel lines tomorrow because the hard plastic lines that are on the truck are a pain to work with. Also that fuel filter thing that's mounted on the frame (someone posted a picture of it way back in this thread somewhere) is probably full of gas and I can't get it to unscrew.

I made a new down pipe today and boy is it a tight fit in that truck. I bought header wrap to try and not melt the tack sensor and starter but we'll see if that works. Maybe I should have stuck with the 2.5" exhaust that was stock

2.5" exhaust is plenty large enough for a 3.0L Diesel. Mercedes went all out on the exhaust on these engines.

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

Finally back to working on this thing! Towed it to my new place and now I've got a garage to work in!

I bled the clutch and it does actually disengage which is fantastic; rewired the lights, starter, and glow plugs; finished the vacuum shut off, and replaced the fuel lines. I had a bit of a fiasco with my other truck getting flooded in a -12 wind chill so I stole the battery from the Ranger to get it going and replaced it with a bit better battery.

It's -5 tonight and so even with the block heater I doubt I'll be able to start it. I had gotten it all nice and warmed up by aiming my heater at the radiator from a few feet back but then I got stuck out in my other truck and had to let the garage cool back down. I'll try and start it one of these days when it's closer to freezing.

What is this wire bundle? I don't think it's the glow plugs and it goes into the tube shaped thing on the front of the engine that has a throttle linkage going to it.

Attached Thumbnails

 

Cruise control harness.

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78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

A while back I bought a 80's Ford box van with a 6.9 or 7.3 diesel. The front grill and turn signals were melted, glass headlights cracked. The glow plug controller didn't work and these engines barely start when hot without glow plugs. I'll let you guess how the grill got melted. . . te hee

If possible, direct heat towards the oil pan as this will heat the oil and engine from bottom up.

Ok that's good it's just cruise control.

It's a torpedo heater set on the floor so it should be heating the oil pan too.

Would you recommend I give it part throttle to start? Can I flood a diesel? How do I know if I did?

Should I be getting oil pressure turning it over or not until it starts?

Yeah hold the pedal down halfway. You cannot flood it. OP should come up in 20 or 20 seconds IIRC.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.