Correct. Here's the FSM http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12265/disc_2/program/Chassis/32-100.pdf for shock r&r, no need for spring compressor either, only if you want to do extra work.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

funola,do either of these FSM sections have the notes junkman is referencing?

32-200
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/10549909/pics/merc/FSM/32-200_front_spring_installation.pdf

33-400
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/10549909/pics/merc/FSM/33-400_steering_knuckles_installation.pdf

Hey, I'm in ny too (well, I work in nyc). If you ever want to have more 123 projects to work on let me know

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Andrew
Montclair, NJ
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1982 300D Turbo
120k
Petrol Blue Green

If you follow the FSM procedures, no spring compressor is needed for lower ball joint or the front shocks (they are 2 separate procedures so you must follow them separately from start to finish). If you are that worried about the spring flying off at you, how about just stick a pipe through it? That takes seconds compared to 1/2 an hour.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

The first link is procedure for spring removal, off course a spring compressor is required.

Second link is steering knuckle removal, there is a note "Loosen nut on supporting guide joint with the front spring installed only when supporting jacks are resting against the lower control arm instead of frame, if not, remove front spring"

If you follow the procedure for steering knuckle removal, spring removal is not required.

Sorry, I really do not have the time or space to do work on other people's car. If convenient, we can meet somewhere and I can take a look at yours and show you mine, which is an 85 in pretty good condition, very little rust with 50k more miles than yours.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

funola -oh I was totally kidding around. sure, i'd love some expert eyes or advice, but not expecting anybody to do anything! thanks for all the help

-andrew

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Andrew
Montclair, NJ
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1982 300D Turbo
120k
Petrol Blue Green

Pipe is a great idea. But its not a fair comparison. You can drop that compressor in there so easily.

And you only need enough to retain the spring, not remove it. Its 7 minutes with the wheel off and the access hole already already widened.

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For a while I was considering attaching 2 lengths of heavy chain to the spring at the top and bottom coil with those threaded links to absorb energy of the spring should the compressor fail. But I don't have heavy enough chain.
I considered the sudden freeing of the spring as a projectile. Similar to an arrow being fired with the nock end being attached to heavy wet rope. It would release, but it certainly would not have a free trajectory, the mass of the rope would absorb the energy as it was uncoiled.
For a while I considered that.


snapped_bolt

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'81 240D For now, a good place to borrow new parts
'80 300TD Probably will be put back into service!
'79 240D BACK IN SERVICE SINCE 09/16; limited use, oil leak. Guide pin r/sealed/replaced. Still a leak. Front crank seal....

I reread the spring removal section. The caution is against letting the piston rod turn which could result in the shock coming apart. Section 23-200 covers this for a 126. My last car had 1 ball joint pop out easily. The other one was beyond difficult. I wouldn't want to do the work to get to the ball joint without being sure that I wouldn't be back for the LCA any time soon. It's a personal preference dictated by available time now and expected time in the future.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

There are several good threads w/ photos on replacing the lower ball joint which I didn't see them referenced (quick glance). You don't need to compress the spring or even touch it. The lower control arm stays in place. You do need to remove the spindle to work on it on the bench. One thread is "redneck lower ball joint removal" or such.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans