Still pulling after alignment
 

1983 300td,

Lined up today but still pulling hard to the right. Got the results posted in the picture. Should I return to the shop and ask for a redo, or refund? The tires have 15k on them and were put on right after an alignment where it still pulled right afterward. I'd like to put new tires on but don't want to chew right through them. All front end joint and bushings have been refreshed 15k ago also. What is your take?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/o5...g=w493-h657-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sS...A=w493-h657-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ia...w=w493-h657-no

I am surprised the shop would align the car with such worn tires.

They did not bring the caster into spec. I would ask why, that should be pretty achievable. Looks like they didn't even bother to touch it (perhaps they don't know how)

The caster setting could contribute greatly to this if the car has no 'incentive' to return to center.


I have read that the steering shock has caused trouble for people.

Did your tires look like that 15k miles ago? they should not be wearing like that if all the new parts are sufficient and the settings were decent.

oh. just realized you had a wagon.

if the rear gets jacked up too high, you will wear the outer edges of the rear tires like that.

Rotate tires front to rear. If it still pulls, you have alignment/steering gear problems. If it does not pull after rotation it is a tire problem. Perhaps separating ply.

I don't see the attachment. These cars have enough adjustment that they can be adjusted to compensate for pull in 1 direction or another.

Also, caster changes affects camber and vice versa. The shop has to anticipate how adjusting 1 affects the other. The general relationship is in the FSM. One change is a 1 to 1 relationship ie 1* change of caster causes 1* camber. There is a 1.5 to 1 relationship going back.

Be sure to look in the FSM because the above is from memory on a 126 for concept only and the amounts are surely different but are listed. I would take the car to a shop that is interested in fixing things vs "adjusting to specs" if there is one locally. I ended up getting a lifetime alignment from Firestone. They are incompetent but I just take it back or to another store until it drives well. Also ask for one of the more experienced techs.

Most shops think owners are idiots and know nothing about their cars. Just keep trying until you get it working. Get them to guarantee that their alignment won't cause abnormal tire wear and be sure to have the final specs printed.

They didn't touch caster because they said although it is out of spec, it is even and will not be an issue. Is this true?

Speculation is almost pointless until you get the wheels changed around. I would put the front wheels on opposite sides first.

If you paid for an alignment, they should have set the caster properly. If the car doesn't drive correctly after setting everything to specs, adjustments can be made to compensate. Search "caster pull" for example.

I drove a set of tires that had a pull for their entire life. The shop swore that the problem was suspension. I was never so glad when a set of tires wore out. The new set tracked perfectly. Unsolved issues are the cost of buying car repair from rednecks with wrenches. They "think" they know what's right but only adjust close to specs and don't understand how adjustments are inter related.

I went to school with a retired Ford carburetor engineer. One of his projects was to take a new Lincoln off the line, tear it down and completely rebuild it with everything in the middle of specs. He said that it was one of the most beautiful driving cars that he'd ever been in.

Swap the tires or try another set if you have access. Set the alignment in the middle of specs then see what you have.

Called the shop up. He said he can't bring caster in to spec because the ride height in the rear is off. He says the rear squats and is uneven between L/R. I know I can adjust ride height, but can I adjust between L/R?

Anytime I had a strong pull to one side, it was from the front tires. Swap L & R and its pulls the other way. Alignment can cause a pull, but I think that is fairly slight. They often set for a slight pull to counter-act crowned 2-lane roads, I recall in the camber adjustment (how tires lean in).

Cross-camber can affect pull. If one side is below spec, the other above, you can have pull.

The images don't show anymore, but I remember there being a difference between R&L camber, and I didn't see a spec for it.

As can caster.

Steering Problems: Solving a Steady Pull