Got it back to normal now. Maybe a little more responsive. Got her up to 30 mph in 12 seconds!

Not exactly sure where you found metal shavings but that does not sound good. Where where they? In a delivery valve on the injection pump?

Yes. Very shiny silver color, and soft. Also very small. I drove it this morning. Very hard to start in the cold, but even though it's slow, it runs well.

I think I may just buy a whole new pump. The IP is about the only thing I have zero interest and drive to work on.

I don't have the part numbers, but if you can get the number off of the tag on your injection pump, the guys at Metro Injection can get you everything you need. (610) 395-3718. Brian is the parts guy. I had to put my phone down there, take a picture, and zoom in to get the number but it worked. When I went to see them they had a pump on their shelf for sale, said rather than rebuild mine they would take mine and give me a new one. I think it was about $800. I don't recall if it came with the governor assembly. They strongly cautioned against fiddling around with the pump itself, as it requires special tools and equipment to do correctly.

I did some work(what little I can) on the delivery valve. I lapped the inside parts like I did on the injectors, and replaced the copper washer and O ring. I did #3, the known bad one, and #1, a known good one so I had something to compare to for troubleshooting.

The air bled out almost instantly, and it fired up easier than usual. I had dark exhaust instead of white for the first time since owning the car. I drove it around the neighborhood and it was still slow. I cracked the line at #3 and the idle changed a little bit, but not nearly as much as the other ones.

I have a good used pump on order. Before I swap it, does anyone know what would cause only one cylinder to have weak fuel delivery? I was under the impression that the pump itself would send uniform pressure to all injectors, whether low or not.

You could have more wear in the piston and bore of one element versus another. To me that is one possibility. I might try running the car on a container of vegetable oil. If the car accelerates much better I would expect just a worn injection pump.


The increased viscosity allows worn elements to function better. Maybe someone ran waste vegatable oil in the car that was not dewatered properly.


I have also never seen or noticed a complaint of metal found in a delivery valve by any member. I remember years ago reading an article that too much water in fuel can shear metal in an element.


My first though is that even if possible it probably would not present visable evidence.

No vegetable oil ever ran in the car, but the previous owner did occasionally run a 50/50 mix of diesel and jet a. My guess would be things wearing out due to lack of lubricants. I had strange performance issues on my 81 240D when they took the sulfur out of diesel. Some additive, diesel purge, and monark injectors along with new stem seals and I had almost no smoke and zero blow by.

I have no intention of owning a 115 with the self contained lubrication injection pump. Also good used ones might be getting scarce.


I thought reciently that if I was faced with replacing one. Getting a lubricating oil feed from around the oil filter area. Plus drilling for a return line fitting into the valve pan. Should allow the use of the later 616 injection pumps.


The oil feed line should be very restricted as the required flow of lubrication oil is very small to the newer type injection pump. The more open return line also means no lubricating oil pressure will build in the injection pump at all.

I received a used injection pump last night. I checked the diaphragm and that looks good. It has a 90 day return policy and was advertised as working. Although, I guess mine is 'working' too!

I should know within the next couple days. We're using one car right now so I really need this to work.

Well the new used pump is in and timed. Amazing. I can actually drive it now. I'll have to adjust because I've spent more time under the hood than in the drivers seat. Got her up to 90 on the freeway. Uphill! Nothing to do now but recharge the A/C and figure out where my vacuum leak is. Is the reservoir in the backseat? There's a loud wine coming from back there.

Awesome! Where did you get the pump? I need one probably.

__________________
What Would Rudolph Do?
1975 300D, 1975 240D, 1985 300SD, 1997 300D, 2005 E320 , 2006 Toyota Prius

eBay. I found two used pumps for $200. The sellers say they're good, but I picked the one with the 90 day return policy. There were also a few listed as not working/for parts for around $40.

I have my old one still and I'm not sure what I should do with it. Part of me thinks I should have it rebuilt and hang on to it, but what are the odds I'll need it? I rarely see those pumps go bad. But I guess it does happen...

No point in paying the large bill to have it rebuilt in my opinion. The current replacement will probably go the distance. Probably at least a thousand to have it rebuilt anyways.

Lots of smoke. I was hoping it would clean itself after driving it awhile, but it may be getting worse. The engine shakes quite a bit at idle, and takes a second to shut off. Before the new IP, I had new engine and transmission mounts and the car didnt shake and the engine shut off as soon as the knob was pushed in. I'm thinking it's running too rich. The only thing I can think of is the diaphragm. I think I'll swap with the one from the old pump and see what happens.

The diaphragm is fine and my shop adjusted the idle and shut down. Still a ton of black smoke. The shop owner said one of the cylinders is getting too much fuel, but I can't remember which one. We talked it over and decided I should have the old pump rebuilt. He gave me the name of a local Bosch diesel service shop so I left them the pump. They were supposed to call with an estimate and never did.

In the meantime, I had ordered and received another used pump and they said they could bench test it for me. Now they have had the first pump for five weeks and the second for two weeks. I stopped by today and they showed me a delivery element that was black, filthy, and frozen. They told me the parts would take three months. They said all the delivery valves were bad like that.

This rubs me the wrong way because I saw all four valves on the first pump, and they were clean, shiny, and most certainly not frozen. I'm at a loss here.

Any members here able to rebuild one of these? I now have three bad ones apparently...