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#31
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Oh dear! check my signature
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check out Servicing Stop as they fix anything and everything to do with cars and have a brilliant service, they pick your car up, fix it and drop it back off! Plus 50% off your service! |
#32
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Quote:
A chance taken on a used delivery valve as a replacement for a suspected bad one is reasonable in my mind. If they are quite expensive new. |
#33
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Found a local source for DVs'. $60 each.
So I dont know if I m ready to drop that much money on something that might not be the real problem. FWIW, it was cloudy and slightly cool this morning and it idled really nice! But I am sure by the time I get home in a few hours, it will rattle my eyes out of their sockets. My source for the DVs is a diesel specialist who also suggested that it could be the injector nozzles I got. Mine are supposedly preferred by "turbo" folks and push more fuel etc. That could be why I have a lopey idle. In any case, I purchased all new lines and am waiting to visit said diesel specialist to have my pump bench tested. Once thats done, I will replace all the lines and filters. Will update this thread as I do these things. |
#34
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Have you cleaned your fuel tank and strainer?
It could be so clogged, it's preventing the car from getting fuel.
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#35
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Quote:
Very little chance it is the injectors. Plus your description of the problem indicates it is not the injectors anyways. You have pretty much proved the problem is with the number three element or delivery valve that you read a much lower temperature on that cylinders glow plug. After the injection pump got hot. At least get an estimate of the least and highest this expert might charge overall. If it is more than you want or are prepared to spend. You can still swap the number three delivery valve with any other in that engine and see if the problem remains on that cylinder or moves. If it does not move a reasonable gamble is a cheap used injection pump. Again the used natural aspired injection pumps are nowhere in the heavy demand compared to the engines with turbos. If you did not have a clue about what is wrong would be something. Instead you have a solid clue where all your glow plugs except the number three are sitting at 190 F degrees and the number three at about 150 F degrees. The 150 is probably the water temperature in that area with no cylinder heat added to the glow plug from a running cylinder. You can absolutely prove this with milli volts or a loosening of that fuel line at the injector when the engine is rough should make no difference. Older cars are in general self service unless you either do not mind the cost. Or you are under the illusion that paid for service today is ethical and fair in most cases. Just mentally get over it because that is far from true all too often Last edited by barry12345; 06-12-2016 at 09:41 PM. |
#36
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Given the temperature difference between #4 and the rest of the cylinders, I would recommend that you swap injectors to see if the problem follows, and then swap delivery valves and holders if the problem remains. Replace the copper washers when you move the delivery valves. Use caution, study up, as your injection pump has the type of fuel element calibration that can very easily be messed up if you do the wrong thing. In addition, you need to be clean clean clean so no dirt gets into the system and damages either an injector or a delivery valve.
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#37
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So easy as well by monitoring the glow plug of the cylinder affected as you go along. Your thermal temperature reader should be good enough in your case.
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