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-   -   Oil blowing out the dipstick - '95 E300D (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/378171-oil-blowing-out-dipstick-95-e300d.html)

Friz 05-28-2016 10:36 PM

Oil blowing out the dipstick - '95 E300D
 
Wife came home with my car yesterday and said the "Oil" light just came on. Told her not to worry, the car has a leaking rear main seal and requires a fill up every hundred miles or so. Opened the hood this morning and found the dipstick popped up and oil everywhere. Cleaned the engine, filled the oil and pushed the dipstick in. Drove about a mile and the "Oil" light came on. Pulled over, opened the hood with the car running. Oil everywhere. The dipstick had popped up and oil was gushing out the dipstick tube. This happened about a month ago. Changed the O ring on the dip stick and forgot about it. Any ideas?

Thanks, Friz

leathermang 05-28-2016 10:45 PM

What level of oil are you running the car at ?

Mxfrank 05-28-2016 11:26 PM

Your crankcase isn't venting properly. Check the differential pressure valve and associated plumbing:. Any mods there? If you find the blockage, your rear main may stop leaking, too.

jay_bob 05-29-2016 08:01 AM

Agreed. The first generation 606 has a plumber's nightmare of crankcase ventilation...

thatguy 05-29-2016 06:02 PM

Agreed, the plumbing is a bit elaborate on the 95 606, it's probably best to replace all on top of the valve cover with new MB pieces. As noted that may fix your rear main leak, AFAIK the 606 isn't really know for rear main leaks.

connerm 05-30-2016 04:56 PM

You really only need to replace the rubber pieces. The hard plastic pipes are pretty tough.

Mxfrank 05-30-2016 08:54 PM

The differential pressure valve may be petrified or otherwise blocked. Until the blockage is located, all breather components should be considered suspect.

benedict 05-31-2016 04:57 AM

I'm not sure for what reason, but a previous owner/mechanic has removed that ufo looking differential valve associated with my crankcase breather system. I can only think that it was for the same problem you are having now.

As someone mentioned above, I don't know of anyone who has a 95 E300D to have a leaking rear main seal.

Mxfrank 05-31-2016 07:55 AM

The differential pressure valve prevents excessive oil from being drawn into the intake. It's a PCV by a different name. They're cheap and easy to replace, no point in removing it.

Jeremy5848 05-31-2016 11:55 AM

Rear main seal leak
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by benedict (Post 3602832)
<snip>
As someone mentioned above, I don't know of anyone who has a 95 E300D to have a leaking rear main seal.

The 606 in my '95 E300D has a very slight rear main seal leak but not enough to go through the work required to change it. Perhaps someday when the transmission needs work . . .

The front seal of that same engine also leaked so I had the seal replaced. There was also a leak at the coolant-to-oil heat exchanger; the several seals of that thing were replaced at the same time.

OTOH, the 606 in my '96 E300D is still bone-dry at 305,000 miles. :D

Jeremy

Friz 06-01-2016 05:09 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Lots of food for thought there. Appreciate it.
Try to keep the oil level at the just below the red marker on the dip stick. When the oil drops to mid way between the markers the "Oil Level" light comes on especially above 50 mph. usually goes out when I slow down or stop.

Removed the black plastic cover under the cross over pipe. If you look at the pictures you see a black plastic tube. It appears to have been cut off and plugged. Doesn't really look "factory". It has been that way since I bought the car with 187K miles. Now has 325K. Any idea what it is?

Where is all this "plumbing" you guys refer to and the pressure release valve?

What I guessed was the rear main seal leak started about 2 years ago. Was getting progressively worse about the time I rebuilt the head which was about a year ago. When I put it back together the leak for all practical purposes disappeared. A few months later a leak developed somewhere around the front of the head/block. I was told by a friend/certified MB mech that I probably had a pressure buildup causing the engine to blow oil. Like a lot of things in life these days I put off addressing it until now it is blowing oil out the dip stick and I no longer can. Once again, any help is appreciated.

Friz

jt20 06-01-2016 07:32 PM

Your crankcase breather system has been removed. Blowby gases and vacuum system exhaust have no exit from inside the engine.


'the plumbing' they are referring to leads from that block off on you valve cover to an air / oil separator to a network of pipes which end at each intake runner right near the intake at the head / manifold flange.

The holes in each intake runner are quite visible in your picture. - you are also pulling a bit of unfiltered air into your engine now.

jt20 06-01-2016 07:34 PM

This might be off-topic, but why did you rebuild the head?

Did it solve the issues you had intended?

Friz 06-01-2016 09:13 PM

1 Attachment(s)
jt20 - I was losing a lot of coolant to inside the engine. Bad head gasket. Appeared coolant was leaking into the cylinders. When I pulled the head to replace the gasket I decided to rebuild it. Yes that did cure the coolant leak problem.

There are 12 Phillips screw plugged holes on the intake manifold next to the head. Are those the clearly visible holes you refer to? I believe they are but they are plugged with screws. There are 11 screw holes on the valve cover itself 8 of which are used to hold down the black plastic cover. Have no idea what the spare 3 are for but none of the holes go through the valve cover.

So I found the attached diagram in a old post here. That is a lot of plumbing I am missing. I will start trying to find the stuff tomorrow. Or what if I unplugged "35" in the diagram and ran a hose through the cover and vented it to the great outdoors? Sort of like the pre-PCV days.

Friz

jt20 06-01-2016 09:30 PM

Yes, those are the ports for the crankcase venting system (all in a row right next to the head but cast into the manifold). I did not see the screws in there.

Venting to the atmosphere would work, but it is a pollution problem. And, if your state does inspections.... could be quite an issue.

If you really did not want to deal with sourcing all those parts, routing the CCV into the intake would be a good fix.

Just make sure to keep an eye on any downstream flaps (resonance valves) that might get gummed up. Maybe every oil change, open it up and clean if necessary.


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