I've changed the oil more than 40 times on my 95, and done tons of other work on it, and my 85, but I had the dealer change the trans fluid every 30k. Today, I did it myself. Took my time, cleaned things carefully, drained and removed pan, drained torque converter. New crush washers on plugs, new filter, new gasket, all torqued to recommended. ATF started leaking out of the back of the pan after about 5.5 quarts. Pan bolts were torqued exactly to spec, but they still weren't tight enough. I knew when I torqued the pan bolts that they weren't tight enough. I should have gone with my gut and given them another 1/2 -3/4 turn. Tightened to where they felt right and filled accordingly.

I remember my dad letting me change the oil by myself when I was in 7th grade (ruined my new jean jacket). It was my first solo. Dad wanted me to use ARCO Graphite. It was a huge mess, but I got it done.

Today I took an ATF bath and bashed my head on the jack stand a couple of times. Never too late to learn.

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2009 E320 Bluetec 117,000
1995 E300D 306,000 Sold
1996 Ford Taurus LX 130,000 Sold
1985 300TD Still 225,000 Sold
2016 Ford Fusion 24,900

Bravo!

Regarding the leak: I think you're supposed to add a number of liters, then start the engine for a bit to fill in the torque converter, then add the remaining ATF.

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

You're right maxbumpo. I learnt the hard way that you need to fill ?4 litres first then start engine and add the rest. I attempted to fill the entire amount but as I was adding the fluid, it was pouring straight out of the transmission breather located on the top rear of the transmission. The smell was bad enough for my wife to come outside and ask what the horrid smell was!

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1995 E300 Diesel

Wife complained that it smells like several tom cats have done their business in the garage.

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2009 E320 Bluetec 117,000
1995 E300D 306,000 Sold
1996 Ford Taurus LX 130,000 Sold
1985 300TD Still 225,000 Sold
2016 Ford Fusion 24,900

the "overflow" from the fill up is usually a first time mistake on any benz after a torque converter drain out. a 2 part fill up is necessary (you learn it quickly though). You should never overtorque the pan bolts on these older transmissions, the bolts snug up the rubber gasket and slightly compress it only. It will not leak - if you do tighten them down - it will leak as the gasket will roll (slip out of place)

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

I always look forward to my 25k mile ATF bath. It seems like no matter how many times I've done it (and it's been many), I always spill way more than I anticipated even with the most careful prep. Still, nothing is quite as satisfying as getting the old stuff out and seeing it still bright red, finding no junk/metallic flakes in the pan, and bolting up a new filter knowing it'll be good for another 25k.

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1995 E300 Diesel
~300k

I use two oil drain tubs (the 2 dollar ones) and raise one with something like a couple of bricks for the torque converter drain because it glugs (unless I loosen a cooler line coupler)

havent spilled any ATF doing that.

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

Back to this thread again. After my inaugural fluid change, I had a drip on the passenger side of the trans pan. I tightened it a little bit past the torque value 8 nm I think, but it still dripped. I ordered a new gasket from PeachParts and installed it - again, I torqued to spec. Still drips, even with the new gasket. Would you guys recommend tightening the pan bolts a little bit more or do you think something else is going on here. I cleaned the area above the gasket to see if something above was leaking, but It isn't, or at least I can't tell something else is leaking.

I'm super busy at work and don't have access to a lift. I was considering taking it to the MB dealer for them to have a look. I dread it, but I'm sort of out of options right now.

I've had the trans and torque converter fluid changed at the dealer every 30k since I got it at 100k. Trans is original and has 306,000 on it. No slips, not slams, no problems, except for this drip.

My gut tells me that 8nm on the pan bolts is just not enough. I'd like to crank them up to about 13, but I'm not willing to just do it.

Does anyone have any suggestions? Thank you.

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2009 E320 Bluetec 117,000
1995 E300D 306,000 Sold
1996 Ford Taurus LX 130,000 Sold
1985 300TD Still 225,000 Sold
2016 Ford Fusion 24,900

Make sure the filter is properly installed and the pan mating surface is absolutely flat.

Other passenger side leaks can come from the cooler line fitting, dipstick tube fitting, Bowden cable fitting, B2 piston cover, secondary pump cover...

Sixto
83 300SD

I'm sure the filter is attached properly and the mating surfaces are flat and very clean. I replace the dipstick o-ring when I was in there recently. Drip falls from the middle pan bolt on passenger side.

Sixto, are there seals or o-rings for the Bowden cable fitting, B2 piston cover, and secondary pump cover? If so, is it a straight forward swap, or does it require adjustment and tuning?

I could live with a drip until I have time to tackle it.

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2009 E320 Bluetec 117,000
1995 E300D 306,000 Sold
1996 Ford Taurus LX 130,000 Sold
1985 300TD Still 225,000 Sold
2016 Ford Fusion 24,900

There's an o-ring for the Bowden cable but you have to drop the pan to release the Bowden cable. If you can't work in tight spaces, you might have to drop the valve body too. The B2 piston and secondary pump require special tools. Do lots of research before proceeding.

Sixto
83 300SD