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  #1  
Old 06-03-2016, 08:17 AM
dtf dtf is offline
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'99 Turbodiesel - key won't work and need to tow the car

Hi Guys - DD has more traffic than Tech side so can anyone help me here? See post below copied from my post on Tech forum:

'Ok - update. I have a guy coming to tow the '99 away tomorrow morning but with the key tumbler/steering column locked due to the key issue the rear tires can't roll because I can't get it into neutral.

I assume there is an override for this - can anybody tell me how to do this on the '99 Turbo Diesel?

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1994 E320 Wagon (Died @ 308,669 miles)
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2006 Toyota Tundra SR5 AC 4X4 (115,000 miles) rusted frame - sold to chop shop
2011 Audi A4 Avant (165,000 miles) Seized engine - donated to Salvation Army
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  #2  
Old 06-03-2016, 09:47 AM
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I believe post #3 on this link might be of assistance.
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  #3  
Old 06-03-2016, 01:32 PM
dtf dtf is offline
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a million thanks for trying to help me out. I found that MBWorld link last night too - that picture is from a 2000 E class owners manual (found that last night too) and I have a '99 so my shift plate looks different as I do not have that little hole! Figures right?
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1994 E320 Wagon (Died @ 308,669 miles)
1995 E300 Diesel (228,000)
1999 E300 Turbodiesel ( died @ 255,000)
2006 Toyota Tundra SR5 AC 4X4 (115,000 miles) rusted frame - sold to chop shop
2011 Audi A4 Avant (165,000 miles) Seized engine - donated to Salvation Army
BMW 330 xi 6 speed manual (175,034 miles)
2014 E350 4Matic Wagon 128,000 miles
2018 Dodge Ram 21,000 miles
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  #4  
Old 06-03-2016, 03:51 PM
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Does this still have a metal blade key not the "smart key". The smart key system uses a solenoid in the shifter base if I recall correctly.

99 should still have a cable that runs from the ignition switch to brake pedal to left rear trans. ( It points rearward ) This cable operates the shifter lock when the key is removed and allows the shifter to be moved from park when the brake pedal is pressed.

If you remove the hush panel below the steering column , above the brake pedal, you should be able to pull the cable that unlocks the shifter. You only need to do this to get out of park, all other gears can be selected without pulling the cable,
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  #5  
Old 06-03-2016, 03:51 PM
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Towing locked rear wheels

Quote:
Originally Posted by dtf View Post
Hi Guys - DD has more traffic than Tech side so can anyone help me here? See post below copied from my post on Tech forum:

'Ok - update. I have a guy coming to tow the '99 away tomorrow morning but with the key tumbler/steering column locked due to the key issue the rear tires can't roll because I can't get it into neutral.

I assume there is an override for this - can anybody tell me how to do this on the '99 Turbo Diesel?

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Just let the tow company know your situation.

I've seen flat bed rigs just back up to the rear of the car, drop the bed down, spray WD-40 or the like on the ramp, and just slide (winch) the car onto the bed.

You should be fine...
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  #6  
Old 06-03-2016, 04:06 PM
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I found this web page possibly related to your problem.

Try their troubleshooting steps to see if you have a failed brake switch or a failed brake shift interlock solenoid.

If the plastic lever is broken in the shifter assembly, then look at their video.

The YouTube video from that page link has no sound, but in the first 40 seconds the video shows the mechanic freeing the stuck shifter by pulling off the shift knob and striking it with a BFH.

Hope this helps.

Edit: Advice does not apply, I forgot you have tumbler issues as well. It is probably best to let the tow operator use their expertise/tools (towing with dollies under the rear wheels or a plastic glide under tires when winching it up onto a flatbed).
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79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

Last edited by Alec300SD; 06-03-2016 at 04:21 PM.
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  #7  
Old 06-03-2016, 04:17 PM
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Kind of a pain, but I don't see why you couldn't just remove the driveshaft...or maybe just the rear flex disk.
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  #8  
Old 06-03-2016, 05:14 PM
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The 98 and 99 with the Smart Key have a Bowden cable interlock between the key switch and the transmission. It does not connect to the shifter like the 124 system. It dives into the tunnel and goes into the transmission.

There is a solenoid on the shifter but that is to prevent you from going into R or P while at speed. It is called the R/P Lock Solenoid. The thing that prevents you from shifting out of park is buried on the transmission on a 98 or 99 210. In 2000 they went to the D+/- shifter instead of the PRND4321, the 2000 and up shifter has the emergency hole.

There is a Bowden cable between the brake pedal and the transmission to prevent you from coming out of park without your foot on the brake (the Audi 5000 interlock).

I think you are hosed, the best thing to do is let the tow operator use his bag of tricks to drag it up on the flat bed. At least not without major disassembly.

If you want to try forcing the switch to transmission Bowden then drop the lower trim under the drivers side, carefully turn the lock ring (Baum makes a tool that looks like the Rook in chess) or use a small screwdriver to rotate the ring. Drop out the key switch and unclip the Bowden cable. You should be able to pull on it to unlock the shifter.

I just went through all this when I redid the evaporator on my 210 so I just saw it all last week.
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  #9  
Old 06-03-2016, 08:25 PM
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The cable makes a stop at the brake pedal giving easy access.
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  #10  
Old 06-03-2016, 08:32 PM
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it takes 5 minutes to crawl under the car and pop the shifter linkage off and put the trans into neutral manually.
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  #11  
Old 06-03-2016, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsmuwk View Post
it takes 5 minutes to crawl under the car and pop the shifter linkage off and put the trans into neutral manually.
X2
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  #12  
Old 06-04-2016, 08:30 AM
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I found the link to the operation of the 210 shift interlock.

Shift Interlock

The best approach is to get under the dash board and find the Bowden cable that heads toward the center. This cable needs to be disengaged from the brake pedal mechanism and allowed to relax. This drops out the latch lever (item 4 in the pictures) and allows you to shift to N.

If you look at this picture from my evaporator job you can see the cable going into the tunnel through a grommet just ahead of the air bag controller.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/atp58cs35nkr20w/2016-05-19%2012.22.17.jpg?dl=0

I'm pretty sure this detent plate and latch lever are inside the transmission so just unhooking the shifter under the car won't work.
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

Last edited by jay_bob; 06-04-2016 at 08:47 AM.
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  #13  
Old 06-04-2016, 01:40 PM
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For whatever reason the shift interlock on my 98 has never worked. I've pointed out to my son the potential danger (he's the daily driver) but this thread makes me glad it doesn't work.
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  #14  
Old 06-04-2016, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsmuwk View Post
it takes 5 minutes to crawl under the car and pop the shifter linkage off and put the trans into neutral manually.
That won't work on the car in question as it seems to have the interlock in the transmission. The 722.6 was originally designed that way for 96 model year. Besides, getting the clip off the linkage is difficult due to space constraints. Pulling the hush panel from under the dash gives access to the interlock cable at the brake pedal.

Quote:
shertex For whatever reason the shift interlock on my 98 has never worked. I've pointed out to my son the potential danger (he's the daily driver) but this thread makes me glad it doesn't work.
That's more dangerous than an old style non foot brake interlock gear shifter. The spring that keeps the shifter in park is pretty weak, it does not take much to reach for something across the car and pull it out of park. The parking brake will hold but that assumes it is being used.
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  #15  
Old 06-04-2016, 08:22 PM
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There is NO interlock in the transmission itself. There are no space constraints with any clips either. Just reach up near the center of the car and remove the linkage from the shifter assembly. Plenty of room to see and work. Literally takes 5 minutes and your biggest obstacle will be the driveshaft.

Those cables go to the ignition / brake pedal / shifter ONLY.

Many ways to do the same thing - I tend to not go through 30 steps for the same end goal. Carry on and good luck.

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