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-   -   A neat 240D engine - A budget R&R (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/378398-neat-240d-engine-budget-r-r.html)

greazzer 06-08-2016 12:42 PM

A neat 240D engine - A budget R&R
 
I picked up a neat 240D (2.4 diesel) engine on Memorial Day from a fellow forum member. I believe it came from a circa 1982 240D Euro wagon. Long drive from sunny Columbia, S.C. to sunny Frederick, MD and back, but did it in one day. It's on a stand now. Started off from one forum member who suffered a major loss thanks to a tree, purchased by another hobbyist, who ended up parting ways with it, so I have it now.

Couple of nice things:

1. Real Euro Sanden A/C set-up:

When I got the engine on the stand I realized that the compressor was tilted in a bunch, which caused a slight panic thinking the bracket got bent or worst yet, the block cracked at the huge "eye". Removed the bracket and compressor and discovered the rubber bushings are about done which caused the compressor to tilt inwards ... now, searching for universal bushings to mill down (I've given up that MB would sell these).

2. M-Pump & Matching Lines with correct linkage

Another nice find. A little different than the "MW" pump, so has the unusual factor. I've had a few "M" pumps of the 5-cylinder flavor, but not 4 cylinder. Plus, getting the correct linkage was a huge plus.

3. SLS casted head.

Pretty common with the 5-clyinder engine, but somewhat rare in the 4-cylinder. Even included the SLS pump attached which is nice to have another spare.

R&R --

The 'to-be-expected' includes oil leaks everywhere. Got the engine up high on the stand so I can sit on my stool and to strip it down, but with the slightly tilted upward on the stand, I got a decent oil leak coming from the rear of the engine so I am thinking the rear seal is shot. So, immediate plans are:

1. Finish engine strip-down;
2. Major clean-up;
2. Tackle the seals;
3. Detail;
4. Rebuild head and fingers crossed NO CRACKS; and
5. Re-do the entire fuel system components

Then, put it on a home made engine stand to fire it up and see how it runs, et cet.

Plans are to mate this with a Getrag 717.400 five speed down the road.

Dan Stokes 06-08-2016 04:25 PM

Great to talk with you today. I'm afraid I pretty much drained my rear seal info but who knows? My brain cell (singular) might kick in and I'll recall something else that might help. Have fun with this.

Dan

greazzer 06-08-2016 06:17 PM

Thanks Dan, and great talking to you as well, and yes I will make the journey NE ...

greazzer 06-08-2016 08:41 PM

5 Attachment(s)
Here are some pictures. I will document the Sanden A/C bracket rebuild in detail. Very neat set-up; however, I think it's matched to the block and upper oil pan. In other words, it won't bolt up to every OM616 block. I looked at my DD, and it appears that the holes needed in the block are missing but I will need to give it a better inspection later on. So very hopeful that the head is rebuildable.

greazzer 06-08-2016 08:45 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Some tentative pictures of the Sanden A/C bracket. Looking for some rubber or polyurethane rods or tubes which are very close to what I need so there's minimal milling. Our friends at McMaster-Carr sell rods and tubes which look promising. I am thinking something around a durometer rating 70, but that might be too hard.

The rotted away rubber inside each "eye" caused the pump to tilt in by a decent amount as the bolt simply pushed its way inwards.

charmalu 06-29-2016 03:38 AM

A 240D engine with SLS Pump. That is oober rare for sure, at least here in the U.S.

I have that same AC bracket, got it off a 81 300D Euro several years ago.


Charlie

greazzer 06-29-2016 04:21 AM

Charlie,

Where did you find (if you did) the three different rubber mounts which go into the bolt holes? Mine are rotted away. I think I can re-purpose some rubber or poly tubes from McMaster-Carr but I am trying to determine what durometer these were.

And yes, Uber-rare here in the USA and Germany. I only saw one for sale on German Ebay and that was around 4 years ago, and it sold for an unthinkable amount of money.

Thanks,

Mark

mach4 06-29-2016 09:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greazzer (Post 3605049)
Looking for some rubber or polyurethane rods or tubes which are very close to what I need so there's minimal milling. Our friends at McMaster-Carr sell rods and tubes which look promising. I am thinking something around a durometer rating 70, but that might be too hard.

The rotted away rubber inside each "eye" caused the pump to tilt in by a decent amount as the bolt simply pushed its way inwards.

I would think you'd be better off using a pour-in-place methodology for renewing the urethane bushings. Urethane is an excellent adhesive so once poured it would lock the sleeve in place really well.

I may be missing something from the pictures, but an option I'd suggest at least exploring.

Great find by the way. Too bad it's not a more "universal" mount or it would be worth pulling a mold for casting more....heck, it may be worth it anyway.

Dan Stokes 06-29-2016 01:56 PM

Thinking out loud here -

If you have a buddy at the parts store you might be able to look thru their suspension mounts and see if there's something of about the right configuration. I'm thinking of maybe control arm bushings for like a Suzuki or something along that line. Their parts are pretty small and might work with minor mods. Worth a thought, anyhow........

Another thought - call one (or more) of the poly suspension bushings companies and see if they have something with the right ID and OD - should be easy to shorten them as long as they're long enough.

Dan

MyOld240D 06-29-2016 06:03 PM

Wow. I bet that came out of a 240TD... did those have Self-Levelling Suspension?

charmalu 06-29-2016 11:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greazzer (Post 3610954)
Charlie,

Where did you find (if you did) the three different rubber mounts which go into the bolt holes? Mine are rotted away. I think I can re-purpose some rubber or poly tubes from McMaster-Carr but I am trying to determine what durometer these were.

And yes, Uber-rare here in the USA and Germany. I only saw one for sale on German Ebay and that was around 4 years ago, and it sold for an unthinkable amount of money.

Thanks,

Mark

Mark, I never used the bracket. The engine it came off of had some holes the 617.95 engine does not.

Here is a post of pictures I posted about this bracket.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2967868-post13.html

and another bracket
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2967871-post14.html


Charlie

t walgamuth 06-29-2016 11:33 PM

In europe the SLS was not uncommon in models other than wagons. Also am wondering about the toughness of the rubber in the ac mount....might be harder than suspension bushings.

strelnik 06-30-2016 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greazzer (Post 3604948)
I picked up a neat 240D (2.4 diesel) engine on Memorial Day from a fellow forum member. I believe it came from a circa 1982 240D Euro wagon. Long drive from sunny Columbia, S.C. to sunny Frederick, MD and back, but did it in one day. It's on a stand now. Started off from one forum member who suffered a major loss thanks to a tree, purchased by another hobbyist, who ended up parting ways with it, so I have it now.

Couple of nice things:

1. Real Euro Sanden A/C set-up:

When I got the engine on the stand I realized that the compressor was tilted in a bunch, which caused a slight panic thinking the bracket got bent or worst yet, the block cracked at the huge "eye". Removed the bracket and compressor and discovered the rubber bushings are about done which caused the compressor to tilt inwards ... now, searching for universal bushings to mill down (I've given up that MB would sell these).

2. M-Pump & Matching Lines with correct linkage

Another nice find. A little different than the "MW" pump, so has the unusual factor. I've had a few "M" pumps of the 5-cylinder flavor, but not 4 cylinder. Plus, getting the correct linkage was a huge plus.

3. SLS casted head.

Pretty common with the 5-clyinder engine, but somewhat rare in the 4-cylinder. Even included the SLS pump attached which is nice to have another spare.

R&R --

The 'to-be-expected' includes oil leaks everywhere. Got the engine up high on the stand so I can sit on my stool and to strip it down, but with the slightly tilted upward on the stand, I got a decent oil leak coming from the rear of the engine so I am thinking the rear seal is shot. So, immediate plans are:

1. Finish engine strip-down;
2. Major clean-up;
2. Tackle the seals;
3. Detail;
4. Rebuild head and fingers crossed NO CRACKS; and
5. Re-do the entire fuel system components

Then, put it on a home made engine stand to fire it up and see how it runs, et cet.

Plans are to mate this with a Getrag 717.400 five speed down the road.


Sounds great, where are you sourcing your 717.400?

greazzer 06-30-2016 11:05 AM

I cannot pour a bushing because there is a steel tube insert and that has to be exactly centered. The pre-cast tubes are pretty close and you can apparently lathe poly. The only problem now is trying to figure out the durometer because I am positive that bracket has those built in shock absorbers to provide a little play. Too much play and the compressor kicks in a little and too hard could cause a problem also. That is what caused my initial panic as I thought the bracket was somehow bent. It's not bent, but the bushings collapsed which caused it to kick-in or tilt inwards which will destroy it with the spinning belt.

I am down to just one 717.400 (entire kit). I had 4, but I sold off 3. I bought them overseas and CONUS . Just complete luck of the draw.

And yes, I called some of the poly bushings guys, and it's very doable for them to make me some bushings.... however, being the universal demand (just me) out of a handful of vendors makes this a very pricey proposition.

Simpler=Better 06-30-2016 02:56 PM

Pick a durometer, cut to fit, and go from there. I'd prrobably just sleeve up rubber and pvc hoses.


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