W210 water pump thermostat and fan clutch job
 

What should I know ? parts are on hand just need to pick some antifreeze will go with 50/50 peak or should I use anything specific ?

About how much time would it take for an above average mechanically inclined person ?

My friend who is a tech tells me its a 3 1/2 hour job I dont see it being so long I did my e39 ( 530 BMW ) in under 2 hours last year and that included the radiator too.

There is a nice set of instructions for replacing the fan clutch on this website:

PeachPartsWiki: R&R of the Viscous Fan Clutch

You should read this paper. I think you need the shortie socket, and the thick, bent wire locking tool is extremely useful (both are shown in photos in the paper). I found it easiest to work from the top of the radiator as opposed to the side. You need a low profile ratchet as there is very little space between the radiator and the bolt that holds the fan clutch on the water pump. I put a piece of thin cardboard against the radiator to protect it from the tools I used. You should get a magnet that's is on a telescoping rod or handle as you my drop a bolt or socket. You need it to get whatever you dropped back.

I put a Sachs fan clutch on my car (a '98 E300) a couple of months ago and I recommend it. I bought it from Pelican parts. As far as time is concerned. It took me two and one/half hours to do the job. I'm 78 years old and do everything kind of slow these days.

Mercedes has changed to bolt that holds the fan clutch to the water pump from hex headed to torx headed. You can still used the shorty hex socket to screw in the new torx headed bolt. Either by accident or engineering, Mercedes allows use of the old tool on the new bolt. I choose to think it was by accident, because Mercedes engineers seem to enjoy making life difficult for DIYers.

The special tools are available from Samstag sales.

Definitely use a MB 325.0 coolant. Commercially available as Zerex G05. Mixed 50/50 with distilled water. 1 gal G05 + 1 gal distilled.

Be sure to elevate the front of the car and refill from the upper radiator hose, not the recovery tank. Start engine, put heat on max and watch temp like a hawk to make sure it burps ok...check level for several days thereafter.

I think Mercedes recommends that you use its brand of antifreeze to protect the plastic parts in the cooling system. I bought a gallon from a dealer near me; the cost was less than $25.

I have heard that Zerex antifreeze has adequate protectants.

Others may know more about this.

Make sure you have a set of E torx sockets on hand because pretty much everything is E torx on the water pump and housing. Whatever water pump you buy make sure it has the large impeller. There are several impeller diameters, just make sure it's at least as large as the one you took out.

You can use any aluminum safe coolant. There's nothing special in the MB cooling system that is incompatible with any cheap green coolant on the market.

Very helpful link now I got to chase a shortie socket car is half way in pieces and I tried to fit an allen key in there but no luck I almost thought the radiator have to come out

will order the socket tonight and find something to do meanwhile

Thermostat is fairly easy -- unless it's located in some oddball place. Depends on the engine. On my M104 and OM606, it was a 20 min job.

Fan clutch, on other hand, is a little bit more complicated. As others said, you need a short hex bit. Both of my cars were hex, though it's possible that newer cars switched to torx.

It's a bit easier if you unbolt the radiator (from the top) and push it back a little bit. Don't have to open it up or remove it or anything, just push it back 1 inch or so. Gives you a lot more room.

I just use a cut off Allen wrench.

I thought of cutting an allen wrench and using that with a pair or vise grips

Deplore mentioned moving the radiator. I forgot about the thread that has a video of doing that. It is:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/325698-w210-om606-e300-turbodiesel-cooling-fan-clutch-replacement.html

It might be helpful.

interesting, will try that and report back

Why don't more people just remove the radiator when doing this? Radiators are about the easiest thing to remove on most cars. especially if you are draining it anyway to remove the water pump. 5 min and its out of your way for good.

Honestly though I haven't done it on a W210 yet. But i doubt it takes very long. I'll have to try it now :)

Only difficulty with pulling the radiator is dealing with the transmission cooler lines drooling all over.

With the removable upper support it is very easy to get it in and out.

One trick for this is to take a junked radiator and strip out the trans cooler (be sure it's squeaky clean inside!) and use that to shunt the cooler lines while the radiator is out. This avoids major fluid loss and also limits contamination of the fluid.

I took the support off and there is enough space to put my regular 8mm hex on a ratchet in there.

The trans lines is why I didn't touch the radiator I was gonna take it out at first but when I saw the trans cooling lines and what I got to do I figure this gotta work without rad removal and it is a cake.

Well the water pump finally came out what a pain that was some of the bolts are so hard to get to ( one behind the timing mark that must come off )

The pump came out with a cracked fin no wonder car was overheating last day we drove it.


put her back together and will fill coolant in the morning.