masive huge gigantic large big oil leak - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

leathermang · #16 06-13-2016, 11:24 PM

It might be something else...
only requiring removal of the transmission...
it is a long shot but would be worth cleaning on the inside of the bell housing and back of engine ..
There is a steel ball ' seal' at the end of the Block oil passage which feeds the oil squirters..... it is on the driver's side about half way up the block...
Not likely.. but a possibility which you would want to eliminate before pulling the engine for the rear seal....

stresscrack · #17 06-14-2016, 12:26 AM

could that "ball seal" have been damaged during the transmission install project?

leathermang · #18 06-14-2016, 12:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stresscrack

could that "ball seal" have been damaged during the transmission install project?

It COULD... but you would have to have had a gorilla doing the install.. no offense to gorilla's.... so unlikely.. but possible... if sustained an impact somehow.... really a LONG shot.. but I wanted to mention it due to it not needing pulling the engine to fix... i would cry if I took an engine out and then found it was something which did not require full engine removal...

stresscrack · #19 06-14-2016, 12:49 AM

can you explain how I can check this first?

thanks

vstech · #20 06-14-2016, 08:08 AM

Also, the turbo oil feed line crosses the bellhousing, and easily could have been damaged.
The oil pressure tap is on the oil filter housing... the oil filter housing itself has a commonly leaky gasket...

leathermang · #21 06-14-2016, 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stresscrack

can you explain how I can check this first?

thanks

You are probably going to drop the transmission on the way to pulling the engine... so after dropping it.....
clean up the back of the engine.....
and then start the engine for a really short time... do that again until you detect where the leak is....
If it is the rear main seal... no harm no foul since this is just a part of fixing that anyway...

stresscrack · #22 06-14-2016, 01:04 PM

ahhhh makes since

junqueyardjim · #23 06-14-2016, 03:54 PM

I would say that anyone who will pull and replace your 617 and then do front and rear seals for $750.00 is really willing to work for next to nothing or doesn't know what he is talking about. Also to replace the whole rear seal he needs to take the crank out and for the front he must remove that gorilla style balancer.

stresscrack · #24 06-14-2016, 04:23 PM

thanks I will be very clear on procedures when I go see the guy and feel him out.
ill know if the guy is an idiot or not

Junkman · #25 06-14-2016, 05:13 PM

I would replace every seal that I could get to with the engine on the stand.

Here is one thread.

Leak-Free 617:

junqueyardjim · #26 06-14-2016, 08:49 PM

Both 617 Turbo's I have installed in doing the 617 to 4 speed set up looked to be real leakers. But putting in a new oil filter assembly gasket, also installing a new valve cover gasket, (if that leaks it will leak down the back of the block, always) has given me two very dry and clean engines.

jt20 · #27 06-14-2016, 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by junqueyardjim

Both 617 Turbo's I have installed in doing the 617 to 4 speed set up looked to be real leakers. But putting in a new oil filter assembly gasket, also installing a new valve cover gasket, (if that leaks it will leak down the back of the block, always) has given me two very dry and clean engines.

Jim,

What are you saying here? that a 4 speed manual causes more vibrations than an automatic?

why do you think this leaking happens?

leathermang · #28 06-14-2016, 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jt20

Jim,

What are you saying here? that a 4 speed manual causes more vibrations than an automatic?

why do you think this leaking happens?

I do not read that into what he wrote at all.... only that they looked like leakers before he put correct gaskets on them...

ROLLGUY · #29 06-14-2016, 11:19 PM

You said the leak did not get bad until the manual swap. Could it be that the forward pressure from depressing the clutch is putting pressure against the thrust bearings that wasn't present with the auto transmission? This is a long shot too, and the only way to fix it is to reseal the engine. Again, the crank does not have to come out to replace both halves of the rope seal. However, even with the tutorial, it is not an easy job. The guy that will do it for $750 would be doing it as cheaply as possible, but may not know how to do it right, and you would be back where you started. Also, if the engine is pulled, you have the chance to detail the engine and bay before installing the engine. A trip to the coin-op car wash with the engine and some good degreaser will make working on the engine much more pleasant. As far as the ball seal, you will need to remove the flywheel and intermediate plate to access it, and that needs to be done with the rope seal replacement anyway. There will be no wasted time or effort to check that before removing the engine.......Rich

ROLLGUY · #30 06-14-2016, 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by junqueyardjim

Both 617 Turbo's I have installed in doing the 617 to 4 speed set up looked to be real leakers. But putting in a new oil filter assembly gasket, also installing a new valve cover gasket, (if that leaks it will leak down the back of the block, always) has given me two very dry and clean engines.

I thought the oil filter stand gasket was the prime suspect, but looking at the photos rovided, it does not appear to be leaking there. It does appear to be leaking from the rear of the engine. I don't suspect the turbo oil feed line either. The best first thing to do in my opinion is to clean th engine real good first. The oil leaks are much easier to pinpoint it ha clean engine.

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