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Old 06-19-2016, 07:25 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 2,472
As I recall, just tightening the 3 fwd IP mounting bolts when done caused a slight change in IP timing, so only so much finesse one can do. The difference between 1 drip/sec and 2 drip/sec is probably <1/2 crank degree on my cars, so kind of futile to get exactly 1 drip/sec. I recall removing all injector tubes when I did IP timing, since hard to adjust the IP if fighting the tubes. I recall it was hard to get all the tube nuts started, and it didn't help that I had set to 27 deg BTDC so the tubes had to bend slightly tighter than the factory bends. I guess one could try pre-bending them on a shop press to get closer.
1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans
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Old 06-20-2016, 08:55 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 379
Sometimes, all you need to solve a problem is walk away and come back another day.

I just got it licked and will be wearing my dunce cap the rest of the evening.

I loosened the 3 accessible nuts another half turn and was able to advance the IP that extra fraction of an inch to get it dialed in. So, it seems that I didn't create enough "slop" for the pump to be advanced my first time around.

My previous experience was with a tired IP and there was lots of "wiggle room" to get one drop per second. After being rebuilt, there is very little margin between full blast and nothing at all. As a matter of fact, I probably didn't even have to adjust the timing. The position difference was so slight that I only had to fiddle with one of the fuel lines, the others went back on without any bending required.
1974 240D "Boldie" 170K.- New timing chain/freshly rebuilt IP/replaced valve seals/injectors/upgraded stereo/new Bilsteins with Yokohamas/fresh paint and rocker panels plus lots of welds.
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