240D clutch OM617 turbo
 

I Just drove my 4speed om617 turbo with 2.88 rear end for the first time. It seems like as soon as the engine builds boost the clutch just can't hold. RPMs increase but car doesn't go any faster.... I used the old clutch from the om616, which had plenty of friction material left.

What are others with this swap running for a pressure plate and clutch disk? G-wagen stuff?

Did you make one of those ' shop made' checkers to see if your clutch is properly adjusted ?

BB:

Questions:

1) Was the flywheel resurfaced? And if so, was the pressure plate mounting step cut the same amount as the friction surface? [If the mounting step is not also cut, the clamping force will be less than the design amount.]

2) Is there clearance between the clutch master cylinder push rod and the piston? It will be felt as a small amount of pedal free play.
Other than this free play, the clutch release mechanism is self adjusting.

I am not sure what is included in ' self adjusting release mechanism ' but it may compensate only within the design specifications... thus if the ' clutch disc friction material ' is past the wear limit....it might need to be checked...
The wear can be checked using tool 115 589 07 23 00 according to the Haynes manual...

Leathermang - I wasn't aware there was an adjustment. I'll be searching this now. The clutch was working with the OM616 until the slave cylinder rod wore its way through the clutch fork. Both the slave and clutch fork are new. Parts are all Mercedes.

Frank - Yes, the flywheel was resurfaced. Both the friction surface and mounting plate were taken down the same amount. I haven't checked anything with the master at the clutch pedal. It feels way better then before, but I was attributing that to the previously failed clutch fork and the fact that the slave only had one bolt in it.

The flywheel is not the one from the OM616. It's a #38 OM617 flywheel.

When I did the 4-spd swap in our 85 300D. I used new 240D PP, Disk, Slave and MC.
I also used the 616 FW. I had no problem with any clutch slipping.

Maybe the problem is with the used parts? Maybe the PP isn`t holding tight enough?
The is two different Throw Out bearings, an early with the early old Iron Box trans as used up to about 1980,
And the later all one piece aluminum box like the 82/83.

Seems like the MC was listed the same, and it might just be the length of the rod in the MC.
There were two lengths there also.

This thread is about the Slave Cylinder. Shows the tool LM was talking about.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/215891-replace-clutch-slave-cylinder-bleed-clutch.html

Post #26 shows the 3 different lengths of rods, If youwant to read the whole thread click on the top right link.
He used the shorter rod in the end on pg 3.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/369905-1983-240d-clutch-replacement-questions-2.html


Charlie

Thanks for your advice guys. I've ordered a new pressure plate and clutch disk. Looks like I'm pulling this thing back apart ;)

The pressure plate may not be fully releasing is the first thing I would be looking at. Figure out a way to establish this is or is not the case.

Although a 2.88 rear end may be a little much for an older clutch assembly. I once reused a clutch and pressure plate that looked really good and had a similar experience.

Aren't there two different thicknesses of TO bearing? Could he have one that is too thick and is "pushing in the clutch" a bit?

Yes, there are. One way to check for incomplete engagment of the clutch is checking for free play in the pedal. If there is no free travel of the clutch and slave the throwout bearing is pressing on the yoke.

It was the TO bearing. The new clutch kit came with a new bearing. I noticed they were different. Used the shorter one and it seems to work fine.

http://i.imgur.com/D02OMk9.jpg?1

Cool!

Fortunately you have cleared the problem; in reusing the old clutch did you also reuse the T/O bearing? And if so, it seems a bit curious that the long T/O bearing did not cause clutch slipping with the first engine.

Is the gearbox iron or aluminum?

Great detective work and something to keep in mind.

Dan

I replaced the original T/O bearing with a new one when I put everything back together the first time. There is only one listed on this site and when you're simply holding them in your hands and looking at them they appear to be identical.

Luckily this is the all aluminum transmission from an 83 240D which didn't make for too bad of a job pushing it back up under the car off my back. I'd say its the easiest transmission removal and install job I've ever done.