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  #1  
Old 06-21-2016, 06:51 PM
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Join Date: May 2014
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How to flush SLS

I know the process of flushing the sls (disconnect return line, add fluid until it runs clear), but the part I'm not sure of is do I need the back bumper just weighted down to flush the actuators, or do I need somebody jumping up and down on it to get all the fluid out? Thanks for the help.
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  #2  
Old 06-21-2016, 06:57 PM
WTB: 94/95 E320 Wagon
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 2,484
A messy and expensive but effective way to do it would be to loosen the hydraulic lines at each strut, engine on, and let them bleed out until the fluid runs clear. This will also ensure there is no air trapped in the system. BEWARE that the car will drop down a bit and may CRUSH you!

There is a bleed valve on the accumulator/strut side of the system, on the control valve. Get the rear wheels up on ramps. You could put a hose on the bleed valve, engine off, weight (2-300 lbs) in the trunk, and CAREFULLY bleed off the fluid (beware the the rear end may drop down quite a bit, DON'T get crushed), but you won't get it all. No method will perfectly get all the fluid out, unless you take each component off and drain them out.

Did I mention that you may be CRUSHED? Be safe out there...
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M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~380k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 379k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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  #3  
Old 06-21-2016, 07:05 PM
WTB: 94/95 E320 Wagon
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 2,484
A little more explanation: When the engine is running, the fluid only circulates between the reservoir, pump, and SLS control valve when the car is static (no change in the load). The fluid on the strut/accumulator side of the circuit is not moving anywhere, so you need to somehow get to that side of the system. If you fully load the rear of the car, and then start the engine to pump out the old fluid, the SLS control valve will simultaneously be trying to raise the rear axle height back to normal, and so a greater than normal volume of the fluid will be moved to the strut/accumulator side of the circuit. Bouncing on the rear bumper (instead of a load in the rear) would help move a bit of the old fluid out, but you really need to bleed out the old fluid using the bleed valve or by loosening the lines at the struts.
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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~380k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 379k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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  #4  
Old 06-21-2016, 11:01 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Melbourne, Florida
Posts: 181
I opened the return line at the top of the reservoir, and drained it into a container while the engine ran. When the reservoir got real low I added fresh hydraulic fluid and let it continue to run until fresh fluid came out of the return line. Then change the filter. Doesn't get it all but moves a lot of oil fluid out.
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