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#16
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Quote:
I agree with this. The rest of the front end is going to be clapped out almost always on these cars. BTDT doing part now and part later, waste of time. Removing the ball joints I just use an old 3/4" drive socket (26mm?) and a 5lb sledge. Let them soak where they press in with good penetrating oil for a while first, helps quite a bit. Do not forget to replace the idler arm bushing.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#17
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i can recommend a shop in berkeley that i trust 500% but i dont know if he could beat the previously quoted prices.. let me know
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1981 NA 300D 310k miles |
#18
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I have decided to do the work myself but I decided to do the entire front end and buy lemfoerder parts. Does anyone know where I can find lemfoerder lower control arm bushings???Is the w126 lower control arm bushing more difficult to install than the w123 bushings???
Thanks |
#19
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You can purchase the lower Control Arm Lemforder inner bushing for a W126 here on this site.
Part# 126-330-00-75 $31.75 I have seen them for $25 on my searches. These are a beefier bushing than the one for the W123, which is Part# 123-330-13-75 but didn`t see them in Lemforder. I have a set of these for the 240, but have not installed them yet. You can make a home made bushing press or just buy the after market tool. https://shop.ktcautotools.com/products/mercedes-w124-w126-lower-control-arm-bushing-press-tool Here is a good thread Bodyart27 did several years ago. Write up - Ball Joints & Lower Control Arm Bushings & Tool Review (PICS!) The outer Lower Control Arm bushing is Part# 123-330-13-75. If you find this one in a Lemforder, you are lucky. seems to be NLA. I did find a guy on E-bay that had 10 of them, I ordered 2, then thought about buying the rest. Some inconsiderate %&$@# bought the rest. You can get it from MB as listed on this site for $54.00, or buy the Chicom one`s listed everywhere. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#20
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I had no luck trying to install the w126 bushings, ended up going back to w123 ones. I could not get them to go in evenly, even with a homemade press. I think I ended up drilling one out because the metal piece was wedged in so tight.
YMMV though |
#21
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I have a tool built specifically to install the 126 bushings... works great!
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#22
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Pics, vstech, please?
I think i used some threaded rod. Or it might have been the old idler arm bolt. Ended up gouging the center piece...or something. I have repressed most of the suspension rebuild work. |
#23
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So are the w126 bushings even worth trying to install? I would hate to spend $64 on bushings that are almost impossible to install due to damaging them. Would getting the w123 bushings be a better option then???
Can you press in w126 bushings on a bench vise with the control arm??? Thanks! |
#24
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ffgb,
Don't use a vise as a press. That is how many vises are broken. If you don't have a hydraulic "shop press", buy a nut-bolt-washer set at a hardware store, preferably fine-pitch, grade 8. Once you have a shop press (<$100 at HF), you will find many "nails" to use it on. My young daughter loves using it to crush things.
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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's 1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport 1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans |
#25
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I've installed numerous bushings, on the front and rear suspension, using all-thread, nuts, washers and a cheap HF 3/4" drive socket set. Sometimes the use of silicone grease or KY was used to keep from damaging the rubber.
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#26
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Quote:
What has not been mentioned is that if the steering Knucle is removed and you leave the Upper Control Arm attached you are going to need another smaller ball joint seperator to un-hook the upper control arm from the top of the Steering Knuckle. That is if the double hammer idea does not work.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#27
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So I started to disassemble the front end on my 300d. I am having trouble using the Klann style spring compressor. How far down/up do you install the 2 plates??? Also, how do you get the 2 plates in between the springs??? It seems, the only way to install the plates in-between the spring coils is to use a soft mallet, but once you do that, when you re-install the spring, how do you remove the 2 plates???
Thanks!!! |
#28
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With the spring fully extended and the upper control arm on its stop, the plates slip right in. You need to get the top one up as high, and the bottom one down as low as possible.
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All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#29
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I had the same issue recently when i did my front end refresh. i was not able to remove the springs in the end, mostly because I ran out of time, but you should follow the direction off the forum members to see if it helps you.
Trouble getting front springs off...
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Grey '91 350SDL 214k Dad's car Beige '81 240D 4 Speed 254k SOLD Blue '82 300D 225k SOLD White '95 E300D 46k SOLD Blue '87 190D 2.5 Turbo 315k SOLD Brown '80 240D 4 Speed 716k SOLD Beige '80 300D N/A 119k SOLD Blue '85 300D Model 186k T-Boned |
#30
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Two years ago Ray at Peninsula auto repair pressed a set out and pressed new ones in at his shop in Mountain View.
It was not smooth. He knows his way around Mercedes so I called him up to see if he had the tools. He said yes, bring the arms down (300sd). I brought them in and they pull out this international sized suitcase of C frame presses, collars and Mandrills by OTC. It looked like the mega assortment off the snapon truck. They start pressing and air wrenching with a 3/4" impact gun. No go. They try putting it into a hydraulic press but the angles are all wrong. But we all know that here. No go. Then Ray tells his guy to hold the arm vertically like in the redneck balljoint thread in this forum. Ray takes the biggest ball peen hammer I've ever seen and he starts whacking the bottom of the joint. His guy is freaking out begging him not to miss. After three good whacks I see the joint move 1mm. He finishes it off with an impact socket as a punch. The second one is easier because he has the technique down. They use the c frame to drive the new ones in with the air impact driver. All done in half an hour while I'm sitting there staring at them. Ray says, how much do you want to pay me? I said two guys, half an hour, how about a C note? He nods and takes the money and I leave with my joints. I bet he will remember the trick if you show up with the arms and tell him to get his ball peen hammer. It was worth the C note to let him do it. Good luck. The shop is down near Google HQ.
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79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD) 82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD) 82 300SD 300k miles 85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles |
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