Front Ball Joints
 

I need to get my front lower ball joints replaced on my 1983 300d. Can anyone recommend an auto shop/mechanic that is highly respectable that can do the work for me in the SF Bay Area?????

Thanks!!!!

You could buy the Lemforder Ball Joints to be sure you get good quality joints and have the shop do the rest.

Sorry, i am in Houston and would recommend British European Motors on Hwy 90 in Richmond, Tx. I know it does not help you, but putting it out there for someone else.

Its not terribly difficult... but a rental c clamp press and a hammer and a floor jack are required. ..

Are you only going to do ball joints or will you include LCA bushings and guide rod mount and the other stuff that is shot after 33 years?

Parts cost on the whole thing is ~$600 + the cost of a spring compressor. Labor - ouch!!

I just got quotes from 2 reputable places and they were both $600-700 dollars for parts and labor just for 2 lower ball joints. Sucks, because that is a lot of money. I have a 7month old kid at home and it is difficult to work on the car other than oil changes. I can do the work and save a bunch of money, because I already have the special klann spring compressor. I don't have the special ball joint remover or ball joint installer. I figure if I buy some lowered H&R springs or cut some coils on the stockers, buy everything for the front end rebuild, and do the work myself in stages due to childcare, it would be cheaper but it might take a couple of weeks. The hardest part would be removing and installing the ball joints....would you guys trust a machine shop to press the old/new ones or are they special/different where you should do the ball joint install yourself????

I removed my old ones with a large hammer and a few minutes of frustration-releasing time. Pressing them in yourself with a normal c type press is entirely possible, but you may need to make your own die out of some appropriate sized tubing. I have also seen a neat tool made from a long piece of pipe with a section cut out that would let you use a shop press. Might be worth getting a quote from a specialist on pressing them in for you, I doubt most machine shops will have the right tooling to do it the easy way. I hate to say it, since this often feels condescending, but you might want to search these forums a bit. There are a lot of threads on this topic, although they can get confusing.

Not just any machine shop will have the tools required for this. Maybe an independent shop that works on the older Benzes would have them. If you have the tools, and not dealing with rust issues, they aren't that difficult. Most shops will quote you a worst-case scenario for this type of work.

The special tools are available in the Tool Rental section of the forum.

This pulls the ball joints...
 

From the lower control arm.

Conical Pittman Arm Puller OTC 8149 New Authorized Distributor | eBay

Speaking from personal experience. They are slick!


snapped_bolt

The following thread is a good one. Deliveryvalve made a BJ press from a piece of thick wall pipe.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/378038-do-i-need-spring-compressor-change-lower-ball-joints.html


Charlie

Ask the shop what they want to press the lower ball joint in if you give them the ball joint and steering knuckle cleaned and ready to go. Otherwise, the pipe idea would work easily if you have access to a press.

The other things like LCA inner bushings can be done using a large socket that fits the bushing rim and fine threaded rod. You have to shim the center of the socket to support the head of the bushing. The bushing rim will distort if the center isn't supported. I used a circle of wood with a hole drilled and metal bushing as shims.

Buy 1 eccentric bolt and 1 bolt that holds the UCA to the body in case yours won't come out. I used 1 each doing 2 cars (84 7 85SD). Having the bolts and not using is less expensive than the extra shipping if you have to order separate.

Note this tool Conical Pittman Arm Puller OTC 8149 New Authorized Distributor | eBay only pops the taper but does not pull the ball joint from the steering knuckle. An essential tool in case the 2 hammer trick does not work (didn't for me).

Much has been written on various lower ball joint r&r DIY methods with home made tools. Beating the rusted BJ out of the knuckle with a BFG is very rewarding. Pressing one in requires a special BJ press or a pipe of the right size (2" o.d. schedule 80) and cut-out. It is not difficult if you plan ahead and gather/ make tools and parts needed first.

Ball joint tool
 

Removal from knuckle


Ball Joint Service Kit for 2WD and 4WD Vehicles

I originally purchased this tool in 2008. $30 then, but at least now there are a few more adapters with it.
Replaced my ball joints a few months ago, the trick is to center the hollow end on the ball joint and KEEP IT IN PLACE as you begin tightening it down. Otherwise it slips to the side and you damage the sealing surface of the ball joint. Boots must be removed first.
Rotate the tool so it is in contact with the knuckle before you start. Then when you begin to tighten the tool, it won't rotate and possibly slip. Once it starts to get hard to turn, it should stay straight.
I used a long HF 1/2 inch breaker bar-with a cheater-to get the ball joint to seat.
Once the ball joint has seated, reinstall the boot making certain the ball joint is covered in grease. Retaining springs are oriented toward the front, the direction of travel (unless you back up most of the time) :D

A little more affordable than going to a shop for the work.


snapped_bolt

Read the linked posts above, plus funola's "Redneck Ball-joint removal ...". No spring compressor needed, you don't touch the spring. A $9 pickle-fork, big hammer, and Autozone's free-loaner C-clamp press is all you need, plus follow the advice in the links.

I don't think the $700 quote is out of line, but since you need money why pay a mechanic $75/hr to do something you could. The kid would have fun sitting in a high-chair, laughing as you cuss at the job.

I took the steering knuckles (right and left) to a tire shop that also does suspension work...$50 to have the ball joints pressed in. Brought it home and installed.

Lemforder ball joints were about $50 for both sides. About a $100 job.