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  #1  
Old 07-04-2016, 10:38 PM
BodhiBenz1987's Avatar
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W124 front LCA bushings and ball joint replacement

I have had to take out the suspension to replace my rusted out spring perch on the 87 300D (both sides since the other one was getting rusty too) so I decided to refresh everything while the springs are out.
I'm debating whether to try removal and replacement of the ball joints and bushings on my own or take the removed arms into my indie and pay him to do it.
I have a shop press and have borrowed the HF ball joint tool ... it looks to me like with that combination I can get everything in/out but what level of PITA do you guys think it will be? And can I put the bushings in just using the shop press or do I actually need that tool ... looking at the FSM job it looks like the sleeve that goes through them needs to be flared?
Just trying to gauge what difficulties I might face doing it. Taking them to my indy (and picking them up) would kind of be a pain logistically but obviously avoids that labor myself. So I'm trying to weigh the options here.

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #2  
Old 07-05-2016, 12:00 AM
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As an aside, the spring perch carnage is here if anyone is interested in that: 1987 300D (Bodhi) rolling restoration
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #3  
Old 07-05-2016, 11:14 AM
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If you have a hydraulic press you can very easily change the bushings - the ball joint is very easy to replace with that press too.

With this much rust I would be suspecting the control arms are also beat up internally - best get a borescope and look inside the control arm before repairing it.
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1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)
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  #4  
Old 07-05-2016, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zulfiqar View Post
If you have a hydraulic press you can very easily change the bushings - the ball joint is very easy to replace with that press too.

With this much rust I would be suspecting the control arms are also beat up internally - best get a borescope and look inside the control arm before repairing it.
Hadn't really thought of that, thanks for the tip. I probably should have just bought the new ones with stuff already installed, but I already bought all the separate parts. They look pretty good from the outside.
A borescope would be good to have once I'm done the welding too, so I can inspect the back of it through the access holes in the frame.

So with the bushings it's just a matter of pushing them in? Nothing special has to be done with the sleeve insert?
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #5  
Old 07-05-2016, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987 View Post
Hadn't really thought of that, thanks for the tip. I probably should have just bought the new ones with stuff already installed, but I already bought all the separate parts. They look pretty good from the outside.
A borescope would be good to have once I'm done the welding too, so I can inspect the back of it through the access holes in the frame.

So with the bushings it's just a matter of pushing them in? Nothing special has to be done with the sleeve insert?
The sleeve insert is basically a lock for each bushing pair, In the few times I have done these I use a couple of larger diameter old wheel lug bolts and use a press to deform the sleeve collars into shape.

You can use any sort of camera to look inside the arm - light surface rust is ok, it can be washed with some mild acid and rinsed with soap then sprayed with body cavity wax. Heavy corrosion would be a deal breaker.
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1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)
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  #6  
Old 07-05-2016, 11:53 PM
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I stuck a mirror and flashlight inside the arm and could not see any significant rust, so I think these are fine. I will clean them up, POR15 the outside and cavity wax before they go on. The suspension was rebuilt in 2002, maybe at that time the protectant was resprayed. I don't think the arms were replaced.

Ball joints came out nice and easy with the press. They actually look pretty good at about 130K. Just seemed stupid not to replace them while it's all apart. LCA bushings are not coming out so easily, I might be missing something. Or maybe my arm is just too weak.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #7  
Old 07-06-2016, 06:19 AM
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Is this for a 124 or 123 as there maybe differences, on the 124 the bushings come out fairly easy they are rubber with no outer sleeve.

I am in the same boat as you with regard to buying the whole arm or just the bushings and ball joint. Having spoken to a fellow MB enthusiast, there are two type of ball joint fitted to the LCA as below - photo courtesy of another member.

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1996 Mercedes S124 E300TD - 129k - rolling restoration project -

1998 Mercedes W210 300TD - 118k (assimilated into above vehicle)
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  #8  
Old 07-06-2016, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spock505 View Post
Is this for a 124 or 123 as there maybe differences, on the 124 the bushings come out fairly easy they are rubber with no outer sleeve.

I am in the same boat as you with regard to buying the whole arm or just the bushings and ball joint. Having spoken to a fellow MB enthusiast, there are two type of ball joint fitted to the LCA as below - photo courtesy of another member.

Mine is the early 124 with removable ball joint. With the press it was pretty easy to remove. The LCA bushings are rubber but just a bit hard to get a good angle to smack them out. I've got one loose but doesn't seem to want to pop all the way out. Will have to go back to it though, I had to stop last night as it was getting too dark and the vice I as using is outside.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #9  
Old 07-06-2016, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987 View Post
Mine is the early 124 with removable ball joint. With the press it was pretty easy to remove. The LCA bushings are rubber but just a bit hard to get a good angle to smack them out. I've got one loose but doesn't seem to want to pop all the way out. Will have to go back to it though, I had to stop last night as it was getting too dark and the vice I as using is outside.
Would it help softening the rubber with something suitable, silicone perhaps?

I have mine to do shortly so looking for tips
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1996 Mercedes S124 E300TD - 129k - rolling restoration project -

1998 Mercedes W210 300TD - 118k (assimilated into above vehicle)
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  #10  
Old 07-06-2016, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spock505 View Post
Would it help softening the rubber with something suitable, silicone perhaps?

I have mine to do shortly so looking for tips
I'll try it, will let you know what I find . I may not get to it a couple days, work and all!
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #11  
Old 07-06-2016, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987 View Post
I'll try it, will let you know what I find . I may not get to it a couple days, work and all!
Thanks bud, no rush as my parts haven't arrived yet.

This is a good 'how to'' whilst not the exact same model bushes look the same.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w140-s-class/1549643-photo-diy-lower-control-arm-bushing.html


If you have any biodiesel knocking around that eats through rubber like nothing else, turns it very soft too - might be worth a try, soapy water will remove any that's left prior to re-fitment.
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1996 Mercedes S124 E300TD - 129k - rolling restoration project -

1998 Mercedes W210 300TD - 118k (assimilated into above vehicle)

Last edited by spock505; 07-06-2016 at 01:30 PM.
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  #12  
Old 07-06-2016, 04:29 PM
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I heated the control arm tube with a plumbing propane torch. Not enough to burn the rubber but to make it hot. Alternating from side to side hitting with a cold chisel and hammer worked to get them out. Be careful not to damage the slight flare on the control arm tube.
You will need a rubber lubricant to get the new ones in. I used a paste that is used for mounting tires.
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  #13  
Old 07-06-2016, 07:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spock505 View Post
Thanks bud, no rush as my parts haven't arrived yet.

This is a good 'how to'' whilst not the exact same model bushes look the same.

Photo DIY: Lower Control Arm Bushing R/R - Mercedes-Benz Forum


If you have any biodiesel knocking around that eats through rubber like nothing else, turns it very soft too - might be worth a try, soapy water will remove any that's left prior to re-fitment.
Thanks for the link. I've actually been using a punch to tap it out and maybe I'd be better with the chisel as in the picture in the how-to.

Rick76, I might try the torch next ... I was thinking that might be the answer.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #14  
Old 07-08-2016, 08:32 AM
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Got one bushing out with persistence, others soaking in grease. I did use some aero kroil first to break up the light rust holding the edge of each bushing in ... once you break that lose it's a matter of finagling the rubber out. Hopefully will get the rest out this evening so I can put them back together this weekend.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #15  
Old 07-08-2016, 01:28 PM
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If you get one out you can always use a clamp/threaded bar to pull the other.

Photo from Help- W124 control arm bushings



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1996 Mercedes S124 E300TD - 129k - rolling restoration project -

1998 Mercedes W210 300TD - 118k (assimilated into above vehicle)
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