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#1
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Trouble getting front springs off...
W123 doing a front end refresh. I used my ebay spring compressor for my rear springs already and that was fine, however i cant get the shims into the spring spacing. there is not enough room between them. i have lowered it as fardown as it will go, but just a no go.
i was able to get one of them in by jamming it in there, but then decided that i did not want to continue and possibly get stuck halfway in the process(with getting the old spring off or new one on) it then took me over 30 minutes to extract it again. So, i have the spindle off (getting ball joints removed and repressed), and the lower control arm supported with my jack stand. the old shock is still in place. Just checking, but there wont be anything left to hold the spring in, if i remove the shock absorber and remove the jack stand... that would probably put a hole in my hood or head.
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Grey '91 350SDL 214k Dad's car Beige '81 240D 4 Speed 254k SOLD Blue '82 300D 225k SOLD White '95 E300D 46k SOLD Blue '87 190D 2.5 Turbo 315k SOLD Brown '80 240D 4 Speed 716k SOLD Beige '80 300D N/A 119k SOLD Blue '85 300D Model 186k T-Boned |
#2
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You will also find that you cant fit the compressor rod through the opening at the top of the spring mount on a W123 without widening it up a bit.
Are you sure you are using the right plates for the compressor? Mine came with two different sizes. |
#3
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Yeah make sure you're using the correct discs on the spring compressor.
I have read that some (knackered) shocks can stop the full travel of the spring. Support the lower control arm on a heavy duty block of wood (don't use bricks) / axle stand and remove the shock absorber. This needs to be gone before hand anyway. I'm assuming an engine is already / still fitted to the vehicle. If not you might watch the body rise somewhat (!) Another thing that might be happening is that you are doing one corner at a time. Don't. The anti sway bar will stop the motion of the spring too. Have the front end off the ground. Blocks / stands under both LCAs if necessary. Be very careful with these W123 front springs they are just itching to separate you from your body parts. ###### If none of the above applies the only other things I can think of at the moment is 1) a weird situation where the joints in the suspension are rusted solid and they are stopping the spring from moving 2) the spring has died - no more spring - broken spring - some kipper has been cutting it and made it too tight
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#4
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Thanks Strech and gatorblue92,
I have had to open the hole already with my dremel, and i am using the smaller discs for the front. I was however doing it one corner at a time, when my right side still had the sway bar connected. I will check spring again, now that both sides are apart.
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Grey '91 350SDL 214k Dad's car Beige '81 240D 4 Speed 254k SOLD Blue '82 300D 225k SOLD White '95 E300D 46k SOLD Blue '87 190D 2.5 Turbo 315k SOLD Brown '80 240D 4 Speed 716k SOLD Beige '80 300D N/A 119k SOLD Blue '85 300D Model 186k T-Boned |
#5
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I have both sides up and shocks disconnected, full suspension droop. I still am having a hard time fitting the plates in between te spring spacing, I feel I might have to use a soft mallet....but how do you remove when u reinstall the spring later on???
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#6
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Quote:
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78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014 79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022 |
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